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Warbird Replicas Spitfire LF mk IXc


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Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 09/07/2020 12:

If you want accuracy of colour buy a single tin, paint this onto a piece of white card and take it to B&Q for a sample pot. They are about £3.00 for enough paint to cover 3 or 4 models of that size.

Unless it’s US WWII blue, not one of the local paint mixers (B&Q et al) have been able to match / mix.

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Graham,

Getting the 'correct' colours is difficult.

EG: do you want a 1940s 'factory fresh' scheme, a faded one, a probably colour inaccurate restoration, a faded one of those, which particular restoration, etc?

Then there is matt, satin or semi-gloss? Satin look weird, and after seeing service, with oil leaks, cleaning etc, they often ended up quite shiny, particularly noticeable on the darker upper surfaces.

Photos? Colour ones of that period are rare and won't be accurate, modern film colour balance varies, and digital varies again, different from film and different from one make of camera to the next.

Computer monitors vary a lot and the colour is created a different way, with colour created by 'emission' rather than reflection/absorption of daylight on dyed paper.

This may be useful. look an the1938 to 1945 section. It's got the proper colour references, the relevant model paint colours from Humbrol, etc, and click on the 'FS' column and you see the colour (with the monitor limitations above of course)

search for this. It's the Urban's  one you want:

colour reference charts - united kingdom

I admit I gave up on this stuff for ,my TopFlite Spitfire and just uses aerosols from a car shop and then sprayed on a matt coat.. It looked fine to me.

 

Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 09/07/2020 20:00:14

Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 09/07/2020 20:01:18

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alL, Getting the colours correct in plastic scale modelling is a well discussed topic.

there are sites you can find that compare the colours from all the major manufatures. And they all look different.

Why well as Richard says there are no colour photos, orginal planes have been repainted in modern colours and restored etc.

The paint faded was chipped covered in oil etc in active service.

One of the master modellers I knows mantra is if your happy then its right.

If you read enough forums you will see people say this plane never had x or chipping never happened like this or that and 2 mins later someone posts a picture that condradicts it all.

So my advise is what do you want it to look like then select the shade for how you want it to look. Then it will be right.

Chasing the most accuate shade is a question that has no real answer.

again these are my personal thoughts.

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A very good summary by Jonathan, The plastic modellers only have to create a perfect static and very fragile image that's only real danger is a ladies duster . On the other hand , ours have to be structurally strong , aerodynamically correct , light , balanced and controllable. So to be dictated too by the rivet counters is coming it a bit strong .

I change lots of things from scale on my personal models and create colour schemes sometimes that no one can identify but look like they did exist . Isnt that the beauty of building rather than buying ?

The other factor for us , is can see it at 400yds ? The number of times I have warned my friends , dont do subtle ! You wont see it . If there is a bright nose version , or a white wing tip option , take it .

It is all an illusion with us , more like an oil painting than plastic modelling .

On that note I have decided to go for a very dark blue on the P51 insignia . There are plenty of opinions on this subject alone , but it seems to me that the majority of manufacturers use the RAF roundel blue . Whether right or wrong , the dark colour looks so much more correct and less toy like . Again , illusion or fact ?

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Couldn't agree more Richard; our models are rarely examined close up. In fact, in current times and with my eyesight, 6ft is more than too close!

Having spent a load of time looking for pictures of a suitable Tempest, it's surprisingly hard to find common agreement on colours. An average google search throws up a lot more pictures of models of Tempests, than actual Tempests. And those pictures are split into 'very good pictures of a few restored or remaining aircraft' and 'poor/ old/ monochrome pictures of actual aircraft'. So, as you have wisely advised, mine will be my own interpretation on what looks good, and 'right', done to my own ability, and ensuring I end up with a flyable model I'm not too scared to play with.

So, my Tempest will be in Acrowot colours...

<Considerable spat tea now being wiped of Wills walls...>

laugh

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Hi Alan,

They do indeed. They have a Tempest V and a Tempest II. However, the V (which is my version) is in silver and yellow. A fabulous scheme, but not the one in my mind's eye. My personal recall pulls up a standard camouflage with invasion stripes, so that's what I want mine to look like. As such, my reference is much more vague.

To be honest, the point we are making here is that I don't WANT to be pulled into exact colour matches. Because the reference is so vague and varied, it gives me a free reign to apply artistic licence to the finish. Who's to say what is correct? If my model is seen by 15 people in it's life, I'll be surprised. If it makes one of this smile, and that one is me, then the job is done!

Graham

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I'll be making my Spitfire for me; it will be (I hope!) a fair representation of an actual aircraft of that era. I've read somewhere that paint was applied in theatre, so would be subject to local variations.

At the end of the day, if it looks right, then that is great for me. If someone else has a problem with how many rivets I've missed, I will not lose sleep over it.

cheeky

I'll have more problem flying in a scale manner tbh lol

Cheers

Ade

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Totally agree with what is being suggested about colours, just think about what you want to to represent, flying combat missions over Europe, the logic for camo is to try and blend so topside greens and greys (who cares about the 'correct' paint number) underside blues and greys?. Flying over desert areas, light browns and dark browns. Winter flying in Russia, whitewash white over summer camo. As has already been said, who can argue that your chosen colour are wrong> well unless you chose pink, and even then the Nr 14 LA-7 was red! Likewise think about how the paint was applied, sprayed on at factory, no paint masks, so fairly feathered edges, but then a lot of painting was done at the airfield (see Paul's earlier post) and it was brush / broom applied, nothing subtle about that and what choice of colours did they have?!!!

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I’ll have to dig out some photos I found showing spray applied by women but no masks, same for Germany. But certainly for field applied I suspect the brush / broom approach was the norm. But, as Leccy says, the ‘sand and spinach’ scheme was also applied using heavy rubber mats (masks) and therein lies the answer, do whatever you want!

Edited By Ron Gray on 10/07/2020 12:57:39

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Now not a lot of people know this but the aforementioned BB was so quick that people (I think you are included in this Richard) swore he never did anything useful. However BB was also an acronym for the sonic way in which he worked, in fact a double sonic!

But I'm glad you raised the subject of BB, Richard, as this thread was in danger of becoming far too serious! And look, if Spits were painted in a scheme referred to as 'sand and spinach', I'm sure there must have been one called 'mud and rhubarb'.

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The pink PRU Spitfires are lovely - I have a Robbe foamie Spitfire still in the box, but all nicely rubbed down and just waiting to decide whether to use WPBU and glasscloth and the paint her up as a PRU Spitfire.

That intention was from the days when it wasn't all that common to have cameras on models and my intention was to fit a wee camera looking out through an 'ole in the side.

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