john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Ah you've started, good soon be built then my saw is heavy so it doesn't vibrate much, I use a flat blade it'll do curves if you take it steady. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Most saws have rubber feet.. While cutting curves on a fuselage side could present problems swing it round and round. I don't really think a round blade would be the answer. However I am happy to be corrected by others. I prefer to drill holes in the corners rather than cut tight radii. 6 or 7 mm is fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Hi there, I was quite pleased to discover the monster, John. I've been playing with both the tension and the speed of the blade. Just more practice needed now. And you're right, Peter. But one should mount them on the machine & not leaving the rubber feet in the box ! Concerning my fuselage sides, I've been marking each corner of the triangles for drilling (6mm) before sawing the sides. Regarding the round carbide blade, I really don't know. Large curves aren't a problem at all, but probably different with small radii. I'll stop at the hardware shop on my way to 'La Grotte' and give it a try. Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR Rubber Feet Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Hi again, Back to the scrollsaw. A few parts have been internally sawed & a few others already pre-drilled for sawing. No final sanding yet, except F0 Mk2 (motormount) which seems a bit more precise than Mk1. Maybe I should make a third one… At some corners of the formers, the paper template is coming slightly off, so perhaps a little more spray in the future? A few pieces of Sellotape became a solution for now. Anyway I prefer this issue than struggling to be able to get the paper off properly. More sawdust later Cheers Chris BRU – BE / CTR Mk2 Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Scroll saws. Old fashioned manual typewriters usually had a thick felt pad that went underneath to absorb noise. If you can find one that is ideal for a scroll saw to stop vibration. Or thick felt or carpet pad ( carpet shop samples? ) Blades need maximum tension ( depending on blade thickness ) and you can 'tune' them by listening to the sound they make when plucked. Cutting straight lines is difficult. It is easier to cut the main stright lines by hand with an ordinary fine tooth saw - especially the japanese type pull saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Thanks kc, That "thick felt pad" idea of yours sounds the way to go, both for vibrations & noice. Regarding the blade tension, when I pluck mine, it reminds me of the glory period of Ravi Shankar... Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR "TFP" Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whatgoesup.... Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 I've got a couple of cheap carpet tiles stuck to the bench under mine Chris, - does make it a lot quieter allowing me to work on later in the evening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 The blade tension needs to be more like Anton Karas than Ravi Shankar in my view ( well hearing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Hi all, @ Whatgoesup Interesting idea ! I just had some thick EPP foam packed in Duct tape & stuffed under the scrollsaw. It makes a huge difference as well. Thanks anyway for the tip. @ kc To be honest The Third Man's theme never brought me into moments of musical ecstasy... No offense however. Another few hours today at ‘La Grotte’, going on with my very personal ply-battle. I had to test that carbide round saw blade on the Einhell. It’s an amazing blade if you want to create some Bruges’ lace in ply or reproduce Michelangelo’s Sixtine Chapel in 3D… but I never managed to trace a (just one) straight line. So, for modelling ‘holes’, I’ll stick to drilling holes at the ends & joining them with a flat blade cut. And that was Peter’s opinion too, by the way… “Me? Stubborn?”… “No, Your Honor. Obsessively curious, yes maybe”. More to come… Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR Third Man Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Hi again So far, the ply parts are cut up to F6, some internal cut outs as well but no final sanding is done except for the new motormount which is ready to receive its inserts. I was hesitating about the fuselage sides - not using two different types of wood as Gaston suggested, of course - but about the method to use to get 2 identical ones. Cutting one out & copying with a pencil on a second board? Sticking/gluing two sheets of ply together? I decided - without even consulting the Masters - to ‘screw’ them together and to saw them in one move. Not following Gaston’s advice, I also placed the self tapping screws in the ‘disposable’ parts of the fuse & had to add some spacers on top to compensate with the overlong screws. I’m now really wondering if this is a ‘silly’ method… ??? I hope I’ll know soon enough. Cheers Chris BRU – BE / VTR* Self Tapping Screw Control * now, if you’re wondering about the sudden ‘VTR’ instead of CTR, it’s not a typo. VTR was a well-known bolts & screws factory, years ago in my small home-village... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Hello everybody, It's not even my birthday (yet) but today I had the feeling that it was. I received a very nice present from a very kind lady... ... and the very (again!) best of that gift is that I can share it. So, just have a look at the headline of my blog & enjoy the visualization of the pretty Bella Ballerina. Thanks a lot, Beth... Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR Kisses Control Edited By McG 6969 on 22/01/2016 17:44:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Just using a few small bits of double sided Sellotape is enough to hold two identical balsa parts together for cutting. Only use 3 or 4 bits about 1/2 inch ( 12.7mm ) long because otherwise the sides wont separate without wrecking the balsa. I would expect Depron to be similar. But you could fit the tape on the parts that are eventually cut away so releasing the sides with the last cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Thank you for visiting, kc. To be honest, I didn't give double-sided tape a thought. 'Learning curve', you know. On the other hand, my main fuselage/battery box is 3mm birch ply, not balsa as with the standard build. I would be a bit concerned about using double-sided tape for Depron as it could tear it apart depending on the strength of the glue. But then again, the same discovery curve, I guess. Cheers & thank you Chris BRU - BE / CTR Discovery Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Hello to all, A few hours of ‘slow’ progression today but still no mountain top in sight (sorry, BEB). The decision of screwing together the fuse sides wasn’t too bad after all. The external sides were sawed and sanded first, then after sawing out the ‘screwed internals’ & progressively clamping them, the sides were finally separated nearly ready to be assembled after a bit of sanding w/ 400 grit paper. Gaston is very closely watching the process… As I had to redraw the fuselage sides anyway for my hybrid version, I took the dimensions of an apple marmelade (marmalade?) jar to draw the back end curve behind F6. I taped some sand paper to the jar and obtained an easy 90° sanding down. By the way, the contents of the jar really are without strategic importance… but Queen’s Jewel sounded appropriate for the Bella… Simples. Family picture of the main box parts, but with final sanding still to do. Following the experience with the marmelade jar, I was pondering about fabricating some kind of ‘universal 90° Sanding Device’. I believe I will have my pre-diner aperitif to that… Cheers Chris BRU – BE / CTR Sanding Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Look good to me Chris John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Thanks John, very kind of you. Should I admit that I really like to learn all those things & tricks? Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR Tricks Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Posted By john stones 1 on 23/01/2016 09:19:16. Working late because I had company Chris, and only glued the two because clamps got in way of F2, rear formers will be fitted when other side is added, I use epoxy on motor mounts and former where the wing dowel go's for strength, you're ply box will be fine with Aliphatic. John ___________________________________________________________________ Thanks a lot for your advice, John. I will do exactly that then > Epoxy for my F0 (motormount), F1 (nose of my box) & F2 (wing dowel). Aliphatic for the remaining parts of the box. Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR Advice Control Edited By McG 6969 on 23/01/2016 10:04:56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Hi everybody, I was very pleased with the sanding results of the Queen’s Jewel jar. Obtaining a totally square sanding just by twisting the jar against the ply. I decided to build a simple device allowing me to easily sand some straight lines as well as larger smooth curves. I simply glued a piece of scrap kitchen-tablet-melamine-wood to a somewhat wider piece of styrene. The styrene allows the Permagrit or sanding block to slide effortless up & down without damaging the dining room table underneath (!). For comfort of use, I also drilled an horizontal hole at the front allowing to fix the sanding device to the workbench with a ‘vice clamp thing’ (sorry, I don’t know the exact word / cfr picture hereunder). Heading home now for some shopping with the LotH & tomorrow I’ll have to (a ‘must’!) watch the final stages of the WRC in Monte Carlo. Always great Rallying down there. Have an enjoyable weekend. Cheers Chris BRU – BE / CTR Square Sanding Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Hello out there, Could somebody please explain why the servo rods/snakes are crossing on their way down to rudder/elevator? Thanks in advance. Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR Snakes Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 I'd imagine that it's simply to reduce the number of bends needed in each snake, if they run parallel then a tighter bend is needed at the fuselage exit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Hi Chris It's what Bob has explained. Due to the fuselage shape and the position of the control horns, the snakes should go from left to right and vice versa to achieve a line as straight as possible, hence the crossing. Good progresses on the HD Ballerina so far, I'm really looking forward for the result 👍Edited By AVC on 23/01/2016 15:37:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Exactly right. Keep control runs straight as possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Thanks Bob & AVC, Some mysteries are really becoming plain rational when outlined by experienced people. I 'm progressing somehow but rather slowly of course. Following the 'main' stream of building would have been a lot easier for a "first one". But then the question remains if there really is a 'standard' building: IC, electric power, top hatch location, cowl construction, wing u/c vs fuse undercarriage, 1 or 2 ailerons servos, snakes vs pull-pull, servos at the back... Sometimes it gets rather tricky to see the forest for the trees for a grand'newbie like me. I guess the above ‘collage’ clarifies what I mean… Fortunately I can rely on a bit of full size experience from my past. I would never have been able to start this without that baggage. But currently my slogan remains: “Think twelve times only saw once”. So the progress will be slow & the ”result” doesn't seem that close… but at least I'm enjoying it. Thanks again & cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR Forest Control Edited By McG 6969 on 23/01/2016 18:11:22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Designers have their own favourite methods which they tend to stay with. You will notice that many builders choose to use two servos, one in each wing. AS you build more models you will decide which methods you prefer and will be ably to modify the plan to suit your own preferences. It is all about that slowly acquired thing called experience. In the end you will look at a plan and think "I don't like that. Can I change it and if so how." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Thanks for visiting, Peter. I noticed how different all the end results of the MB 2016 will be. The challenge I took by building the 'hybrid' version is meant to learn some different techniques - Depron, ply, lite ply, carbon fiber, glass fiber, etc. - all at once during my first build. In fact, I'm spending more time reading the different blogs than actually 'building'... Even more, i have to 'discover' the different modelling tools & equipment that I bought together with the new techniques. But anyhow, for me it's not a 'race' but a discovery journey... and I'm enjoying it fully. By the way, I decided today that the future registration of the Bella will be 'PM - 169'... the sum of the numbers being '16' and of course 'PM' doesn't mean Papa Mike nor Petr Millaricz... Cheers Chris CTR - BE / CTR Registration Control Edited By McG 6969 on 23/01/2016 19:12:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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