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Band Saw or Scroll Saw?


Stuart Z
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I would choose a scroll saw first if you are a scratch builder. Reason, if you need to fret out a former where there is a hole surrounded by material easy with a scroll saw, simply unhook the blade pass through a hole drilled in the former, reconnect to saw and off you go. You can do this with a band saw, cut blade. pass through hole, re-weld blade. Unfortunately most of us don't have an in situ welder.

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Scroll saw!

But it depends what you are doing - model planes need intricate formers and the scrollsaw is best. General carpentry might need a bandsaw instead. Note that cheap bandsaws seem not too satisfactory to most people , but most cheap scrollsaws sold now seem to work as well as any.

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As a lucky man with all three, the scroll saw, a 40 year old dremel motoshop unit is king. If the table saw or band saw broke it would be a shame. If the scroll saw went west, it would be replaced, even if SWMBO's washing machine went west at the same time. I would disseminate, lie, as nescessary,

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The weight of that Screwfix one suggests its not the same as others which are heavier. More cast iron = less vibration.

However if you need to move it around then lower weight might be better for you.

I suggest considering the Axminster one here which is a later version of the one I have had for 20 years or more. One of the differences is some have cast iron tables, some alloy, some pressed steel. Obviously cast iron seems better although alloy would be non rusting if you work in a damp workshop. Pressed steel seems less desirable although no doubt it works.

I would also consider the Record one which has built in light - very handy. Look out for special deals on Record as they often have sale prices on this machine.

Check out the blade tension and whether it is quick release which would be very handy. (That Screwfix one looks different to most blade tensioners ) Also check if machine has adaptors for fretsaw blades as well as pin ended.

 

Regarding safety -  I dont think you could do any real harm with a scrollsaw although they can just draw blood.  Different matter with a bandsaw or table saw -much more dangerous.

Edited By kc on 24/01/2016 19:52:33

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Posted by kc on 24/01/2016 19:47:45:

The weight of that Screwfix one suggests its not the same as others which are heavier. More cast iron = less vibration.

However if you need to move it around then lower weight might be better for you.

I suggest considering the Axminster one here which is a later version of the one I have had for 20 years or more. One of the differences is some have cast iron tables, some alloy, some pressed steel. Obviously cast iron seems better although alloy would be non rusting if you work in a damp workshop. Pressed steel seems less desirable although no doubt it works.

I would also consider the Record one which has built in light - very handy. Look out for special deals on Record as they often have sale prices on this machine.

Check out the blade tension and whether it is quick release which would be very handy. (That Screwfix one looks different to most blade tensioners ) Also check if machine has adaptors for fretsaw blades as well as pin ended.

Regarding safety - I dont think you could do any real harm with a scrollsaw although they can just draw blood. Different matter with a bandsaw or table saw -much more dangerous.

Edited By kc on 24/01/2016 19:52:33

Thanks for that KC. Really useful, and giving it serious consideration.thumbs up I'm certainly putting off diving in on the Screwfix cheapie

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I've got a a small Proxxon table saw (non tiltable), a scroll saw & a 3 wheel Burgess bandsaw with disc sander attachment.

The Proxxon gets used regularly mainly for strip wood & long straight cuts etc.

The scroll saw is rarely used for anything other than to cut epoxy board roughly to shape (the part is sanded or filed to final shape). Cutting epoxy board quickly ruins any blades & scroll saw blades are cheapest.

I've had the bandsaw longest, about 20 years or so, even after getting the other two it is used by far the most. If I'm cutting formers I normaly stack two pieces of ply together & cut to half the size to be joined later with PVA, this gives a completly symetrical former & takes care of any having a hole in the centre. Before I had the Proxxon I used the bandsaw to produce stripwood etc. With care it's possible to cut acceptable triangular strip, which I still do when it's needed.

IMO the bandsaw is the most versatile, it's the one I value most, the Proxxon gives the cleanest cut for stripwood etc, a bit limited otherwise but if I had to give any up I wouldn't really miss the scroll saw & I'd cut epoxy board with a junior hacksaw or hand fretsaw.

Cheers,

Pat o'10 Fingers. teeth 2

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The weight of that Screwfix one suggests its not the same as others which are heavier. More cast iron = less vibration.

Hi, I agree weight is an issue, lighter can mean less stable and more noise, I have an old Shapersaw which is very very loud, partly as it relies on oscillation / vibration to function. But it is very handy to lift on and off the workbench. So what I think I want is quieter, better cutting depth, ( the Shapersaw is painfully slow when even thin ply is involved). I guess it's all down to a balance of compromises as I read above that I really would benefit from having both, but just don't have the space or the budget.

So thanks for all the input it has focussed my mind on what is key for me.

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They ARE fretsaws!

I've got a SIP fretsaw, just over 2 years old to replace an older one which vibrated terribly. Its a good saw and does not vibrate. A key part of my SIP broke. A new part cost 95p plus £6 postage, so I really couldn't advise that. I do have some Axminster stuff and usually the quality is good. If I was replacing the SIP it would be for an Axminster saw. I would always go for one with a speed controller.

Edited By Andy48 on 25/01/2016 14:59:23

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