gillyg1 Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Cheers DD pictures are great. Thanks Graham (cornwall) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Graham Take your time with the build but most of all enjoy making the kit. It is a good challenge with loads of reward as it comes together. Don't forget to share some pictures as you go too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Paul, How did you do the lower part of the narcelle? Did you attach the rear part to the flap leaving a gap between the two pieces? Trust that the 109 is coming along nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Hi Graham Yes I put the back lower nacelle onto the flap and left a gap it takes a little bit of work as you have to make sure it fits inside the main nacelle as it lowers.. or you could do what D.D. did and leave it off? If you do fit it DON'T follow the cut line but cut it vertical. I did and had to glue it back on! If you search back a little you will find it in the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Hi Paul, Yes I have cut it vertically. I was just wondering if it looks alright with a gap or whether you had found another solution. I guess as it’s on the bottom it’s not really noticeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 You don't see it Graham and I think it's profile is better with them on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Thanks Paul, that was what I thought and needed confirming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Hi all, Just thought I would dust the cobwebs off this thread. Any conclusions as to the best way of dealing with the exhaust stacks on the bf110? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Hi Graham If you look back in the thread you can find how I did mine with the resin set. Mine are cut to provide removal of cowl if necessary. Or you can use the ply plate in the kit. I believe Richard used wooden curtan rings and cut out sections to make them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Morning Paul, I have re read the thread but I thought that I would see if there were any other ideas. I to have a wonderful set of resin stacks, which I seem to think you had something to do with. With mine I have even opened out the pipes with a dremel. Took a while but the effect is good. Just got to find a way of giving them a scale colouring. Ps. Now that I have paid for my 109 I can now start to have a look at the 109 while I am waiting for the weather to improve so the I can start spraying. I expect that I will be asking you a few questions on that thread also. Edited By Graham R on 14/01/2018 10:12:56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Hi mate, I used a copper bronze base coat then a black wash on top. You can keep adding the black wash till you get it almost totally black and with the base coat just showing through. Try it on an old pencil to see how much black you need. The photo of mine was a quick see and will be a lot darker.... that is when I can get a good day to finish the spraying outside.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Graham This is my Spitfire's exhausts. The 110 will be darker but you get the effect.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Anybody done a steerable tail wheel assembly modification? ? As I'm trying to make one up myself. Only having trouble getting a decent join between the ali yoke and the steel bolt/ upright into fuz.have tried clamping it with a nut,but the yoke still works loose.Thinking of trying epoxy maybe?? If so anyone recommend a good one for bonding metals together. Tia Graham ( cornwall ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Dell Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 Graham If you are not soldering/silver soldering my advise would be. JB Weld that gets the job done just make sure it has a good key and is de-greased also files very well and you can tap into it if you need bolt anything to it. Edited By Nigel Dell on 23/01/2018 11:32:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Thanks Nigel. My problem is :- aluminium yoke, round steel bolt or piano wire. Trying to get a good join between the two. Yes I'm soldering / silver soldering other various pieces. On my third attempt now .Thinking to make a square brass plate silver soldered to the bolt on top off a square flanged yoke. If you get my drift. Will post photos when finished the completed article. Otherwise revert back to making a steel plate yoke then it'll all solder up together. As I did on the LA7. only want to use Ali for the weight factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Dell Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Hi Graham These are a few pictures of my Pitts Python tailwheel, I made a wooden plug then made the mould from that, it is moulded in epoxy and Carbon tows with a sprinkling of glass fibres, the 3mm bolt is moulded in and is a strong unit, if you don’t mind the faff it is a good way to go. Edited By Nigel Dell on 24/01/2018 12:48:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Dell Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Dell Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 Hi Nigel, managed to get a good join between the pivot bolt and the yoke, using the j b weld as you suggested. Thanks. Will get some pics up soon never enough time. Work gets in the way 🙂🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Dell Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 That’s good Graham, if you use the normal 24 hour cure one, if you leave it an hour then bung it in an oven for 15 - 20 minutes @ about 160 - 170 C that goes off really well! 😊 Of course with metal you can make things thinner if that is what is required but this did work better than expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 These are worth looking at **LINK** They are designed to have the control horn attached to the underside of the rudder but if mounting the wheel further forward then the control horn could be inside the fus and operated by the rudder control rod via a collet and a couple of springs (to avoid shock loads). Edited By Ron Gray on 24/01/2018 13:29:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Hi Nigel, How is the recovery going? Ready for a marathon yet I like your tail wheel bracket. I would be interested in knowing how you made it (in easy steps along with materials. (For another project). Sussex Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Dell Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Hi Graham Things are going very well thanks, can’t believe it was 5 weeks ago, no crutches or sticks still have to build up the muscle that side which is the main source of the pain now, I have had more problem with the viral infection than the hip! Still having to have regular blood tests as there are a couple of post op problems due to the drugs I have been taking but on the whole all is good and I am able to do a few things, just got to get the ok to drive hopefully in the next 3 weeks. I think I still have the mould and plug for the tailwheel I will try and dig them out and do a mini ‘how to’ this will work for anything related to these builds, I was going to do this for the scale parts I intended to do on the 110 anyway, I will also make a list of supplies I use and from where, it has taken a while to find things that work well for me so I may as well save you some time and dosh. Cheers Nige. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Glad to hear all is going well. My wife was allowed to drive 6 weeks after the op. Thanks for sorting out supplies,info etc. thats exactly what I was after. No point trying to re invent the wheel along with repeating the same mistakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Nigel, how about making these tailwheel assemblies for others? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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