Gary Spicer 1 Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 Thanks Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith England 1 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 It may have been asked before, but it’s a big thread so apologies in advance. How does one actually buy an engine from Laser engines, many show in stock on the website but there doesn’t appear (on an iPad at least) any button to actually “buy”? in fact, the engine I want is currently out of stock, but when it does become available I don’t want to lose the chance whilst trying to work out how to buy it 🤓. I’ve always coveted a laser V Twin, and I now have a Jiant Jabberwock that I think the laser V 200 would fit perfectly, especially as I really do not like the smell of petrol in my workshop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Collinson Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Ring Jon. BTC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 +1 Ring Jon, see where he is with engine production and what is likely to be coming up. I have always found Jon helpful and he will assist where he can, but twins have been on the back burner for some time. I have a 180 and it pulls very well on the recommended prop and would say it "prefers" 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for best results (sounds really nice) and don't get me wrong it can do WOT if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 +1 on the power of the 180, I've got one in my Wots Wot XL and it's a great match. Took the opportunity to replace its bearing yesterday so it's now ready to go again when the current Covid conditions allow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Not a tech question but a bit of rant! My new 180 just landed. The engine looks to be the usual Laser quality, but see the old plain white box has changed to brown, and no initials stamped on the lug. Rant over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 I'll send you my white box and you send the engine back to me. I'll stamp it and make sure it runs okay in my YAK for a few weeks and then post it straight back. No pleasing some people.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Done deal Chris! As long as you pay for postage each way . Now don't say " No pleasing some people" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 I send the 180's in the larger brown box to prevent them being damaged in the post. The 180 is a bit of a squeeze in the white boxes and leaves little room for padding, especially when going internationally. We used to take the carbs off to prevent damage but found that about half of our customers plugged it in the wrong hole despite a helpful diagram on the instructions so i ship them with the carb on. Personalised stamping on the lugs has been dropped for a variety of reasons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Anyone want to buy a set of stamps from me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 First or second class? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Hi chaps I wonder if you can give advice on a new heavy duty engine starter? I currently mostly have been using a chicken stick to flick start and sometimes my small Sullivan 12v starter for my engines. The Sullivan just about starts most of my engines. I power it on an old fashioned 12v lead acid flight box battery. For my latest Laser 200v my starter struggles to turn it over in the cold due to lack of momentum with twin cylinders. By the way I’m obviously making sure there is no hydraulic lock etc! I can’t easily seem to flick start it either. I borrowed a club mates Align starter today that worked well but wondered if you folks had any recommendations? Just Engines seem to do two geared starters a large and small that are reasonably priced . Would their geared smaller versions. Be better than my small Sullivan on 12v? Thank you! Edited By Tim Flyer on 23/03/2020 18:32:26 Edited By Tim Flyer on 23/03/2020 18:34:37 Edited By Tim Flyer on 23/03/2020 18:35:11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Hi Tim, I use the HD one from Just Engines with an old 6s (well 5s as one cell is dead) to power it. No problem turning over any of my Lasers or my gassers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 By the way the 200v is unbelievable in the Wots Wot XL. Ron mentioned it might be fast and it certainly is ...with what seems unlimited vertical! That is despite my 200 being quite an old engine with the old purple carbs . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Cheers Ron is that their bigger one with the large cone ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Yes, the big one. I also got their battery bracket to hold the LiPo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Thanks Ron sorry I just got your specific link that’s perfect . I will order that 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Posted by Ron Gray on 23/03/2020 18:37:14: Hi Tim, I use the HD one from Just Engines with an old 6s (well 5s as one cell is dead) to power it. No problem turning over any of my Lasers or my gassers. Spooky...I use exactly the same set-up with a 6S that had a cell cooked by an incorrectly specified motor pre-installed in a Hobbyking Hawker Hunter. To their credit, after some initial discussion, HK admitted the error and replaced the burnt out EDF unit and battery. A bit of internal reconfiguration provided me with a 5S battery that was/is perfectly adequate for the task of powering my starter. The larger starter works with any engine that has come its way - the only shortcoming is that on a pair of Lead Acid batteries - and to a lesser extent on the 20 odd volts supplied by the LiPo - the switch contacts have a tendency to weld together...a flick or five on the switch usually frees them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 When the 12-15V one came out I bought it because my old Sullivan became a pain and was not up to the job. I changed from lead acid 12V to a pair of really cheapo 4s from HK in parallel. Brilliant, and with the large cone fitted also turns a 50cc petrol with ease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Spicer 1 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 +1 for the J’EN 6.5:1 Geared Starter with cradle, turns my Laser 180 with a domed nut or just the prop nut just flip the cone around. I also have the Sullivan Dynatron which does work at all on the 180, just no enough low end torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Very disappointed with my Just Engines starter. Contacts welded up on 4S once after only a few times using it. The main shaft gear is located on the shaft by a small pin that fits like a very cheap key, but mine has no means of preventing it falling out. Just seems to ride into the plastic housing and disengage. Oh and the cone nut was forever undoing itself at the most inconvenient times. Would not buy another one PS - the battery cage was not de-burred at all, in fact some of the edges were sharp enough to shave with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Do you wish to flog it? It is a pain for me changing from small to large cones depending on the models. I agree that the nut has a habit of coming undone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 i used the smaller JE geared starter but eventually burnt it out by running too many volts. I picket up the bigger one and i use it with a 6s lipo. The switch welds on 50% of the time but a sharp crack with my wooden starter stick free's it up. One day i will get a proper switch for it and mod the thing but for now its doing fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 This is a good time to bring the subject of hand starting Laser engines up. Electric starters are okay, but they mess the ali spinners up, good news they keep my fingers out of the prop arc! Jon, what's your recommendation on hand starting (all sizes) of engine and the best technique? Can you reverse flick them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 My smaller one has had quite a hammering but maybe the quality of these has gone down since I bought it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts