Jump to content

Inserting epoxy


Glyn44
 Share

Recommended Posts

i have decided to try Robart pin hinges for the first time. I have reached the point of glueing them in. Just wondering if anyone has a trick for getting the rather viscous epoxy well down into the holes, especially the small 1/8” sizes, without making a mess all over my new shiny covering? I will already be masking around the hole, but am unsure how to get deep penetration down rather than just the top couple of mm.

Or should I use a thinner adhesive?

Thanks as always Glyn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


i use a small stick to help get it in the hole, then coat the hinge about half way up its length and then pop it in. Dont forget to add a dob of oil or grease to the hinge to prevent epoxy getting in there. Any sticky finger prints can be cleaned off with meths on a rag before the epoxy dries

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok thanks for all the info. Going to try epoxy poking, and aliphatic, see which I get on with. I haven’t got any gorilla, had some but it went hard in the bottle after a couple of years! I don’t want to buy more as I wouldn’t use it very often.

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by Merco 61 on 07/01/2018 16:41:37:

Another way: find a piece of tubing to fit the hole(or slot) Then suck sufficient adhesive up into the tube,insert and blow.Flatten tube if for a slot.

I like that. You could probably use a lightly oiled piece of piano wire to make a simple syringe.

For barbed 'hinge point' type hinges, PVA/Titebond is perfectly fine. Easy clean-up means you can ensure the glue comes right up to the hinge's knuckle, without danger of it locking up the hinge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you haven't drilled the holes yet, and you will use the Robart pin hinges again, invest in the drill jig. Its a great way of getting the holes right in the middle of the work piece. (I have drill bits that I keep only for the jig in a little box along with the tool)

I also bevel the hole edges ever so slightly so as to ease the knuckle further into the holes for a tighter fit and less of a hinge gap. I coat the knuckle with petroleum jelly and zap it with hot air. This will stop any glue gumming up the hinge.

I put both sides in at once...not one side at a time after the epoxy has gone off. Doing the latter makes adjusting a pin that is out of square impossible

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Funny that you have fired up this thread now, as only today have started glueing tin pin hinges. From your advice I decided to use titebond. I used a very small aperture squeezy bottle, plus a smearing onto the hinge, stopping well short of the hinge joint. This I had also greased, as advised.

Against Cymaz’s advice I did one side at a time, but will heed that tip tomorrow when I continue.

As far as I can tell, it’s been a success, won’t know til morning when I can give them a good tug.

Thanks again all, appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...