Engine Doctor Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Old credit /debit or key cards are useful as a set square or for applying filler etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 If , like me ,do you have difficulty getting the brass ferrules into servos? Slip them onto a short 2mm rod, then slide the ferrules down into the rubber grommets. Edited By cymaz on 22/08/2018 06:04:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 I have two uses for petroleum jelly- Vaseline to you and me When installing pin hinges, place a smear on the hinge knuckle and gently heat to melt the jelly into the hinge. This will stop glue from getting into the hinge. If super glueing mylar or furry flat hinges in, place a gob of jelly either side of the hinge to prevent unwanted seepage down the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 To avoid cross threading a glow plug and damaging the cylinder head make one of these.... It’s an odd piece of small bore fuel tube and a servo disc. If the thread is crossed the fuel tube spins on the plug but the tube diameter is small enough to still grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Cooper Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Use an old credit card for separating items stuck together with Velcro. . . . The credit card also works when installing items to Velcro... Get them lined up and then remove the card. 2). Use a matchbox as a sturdy right angle to ensure wing ribs are vertical before gluing them into place.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Cooper Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 I.C. engines: To get the holes in the right place when drilling into an engine mount, clamp the engine as firmly as possible to the mount and then get a drill-bit of the right size. Hold the drill-bit in mole grips (or similar) and heat the blunt end. . When suitably hot, lower the drill-bit down the engine's mounting holes and let it lightly touch the engine mount.. . This will melt the mount at exactly the right place for drilling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Collinson Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Loads of favourite methods of mixing epoxy. Packet of cup cake cases (ask i/c Catering to acquire). Mix with coffee stirrers, free if you support your local filling station or maybe a quid to Sooty and whilst you're about it, a packet of diesel pump plastic gloves to keep it off your hands. I use electronic scales for mixing epoxy, as I had a set for other reasons; I believe the Chinese are now knocking them out very cheaply indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Cooper Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 When gluing things together with epoxy, prepare the mating surfaces (rough sandpaper) and if possible warm them up. . If gluing into a chunky piece of plywood, drill several little holes (about 1.5mm diameter) in the areas to be glued for extra ingress of glue. After applying the glue and bringing the items together, use a heat gun . . . the glue will turn to the consistency of water and it will penetrate all the nooks and crannies for a sturdy joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Wright Stuff Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 It was great when I first figured out how to assemble the pins into the housings of EC3 connectors after soldering them on. It suddenly clicked! Boom boom... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Posted by David Mellor on 21/08/2018 23:20:58: Posted by Bob Cotsford on 21/08/2018 22:26:17: Strip the magnets out of dead motors, perfect for canopy attachment. What is a dead motor?....... just use your half-propeller blade to mix some epoxy on your post-it note and stick the magnet back where it came from. Bingo.... no more dead motor. Done that a few times...... Dead motors are ones with blackened windings (not so common in recent years) or those where it's hard to get the soil out of the bent and mangled remains. Those are more common and don't seem to respond as well to sticking the magnets back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Posted by cymaz on 22/08/2018 06:03:23: If , like me ,do you have difficulty getting the brass ferrules into servos? Slip them onto a short 2mm rod, then slide the ferrules down into the rubber grommets. Edited By cymaz on 22/08/2018 06:04:51 I use a smalll jewellers screwdriver for this, pick one where the handle shoulder is bigger than the ferrule and use this to push the ferrule into the grommet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Posted by Brian Cooper on 22/08/2018 08:59:38: I.C. engines: To get the holes in the right place when drilling into an engine mount, clamp the engine as firmly as possible to the mount and then get a drill-bit of the right size. Hold the drill-bit in mole grips (or similar) and heat the blunt end. . When suitably hot, lower the drill-bit down the engine's mounting holes and let it lightly touch the engine mount.. . This will melt the mount at exactly the right place for drilling. Glue the motor in place with superglue, then it doesn't move or have clamps in the way when you sort the holes positions out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Posted by Don Fry on 22/08/2018 11:18:40: Posted by Brian Cooper on 22/08/2018 08:59:38: I.C. engines: To get the holes in the right place when drilling into an engine mount, clamp the engine as firmly as possible to the mount and then get a drill-bit of the right size. Hold the drill-bit in mole grips (or similar) and heat the blunt end. . When suitably hot, lower the drill-bit down the engine's mounting holes and let it lightly touch the engine mount.. . This will melt the mount at exactly the right place for drilling. Glue the motor in place with superglue, then it doesn't move or have clamps in the way when you sort the holes positions out. Variation on Brian's idea. Grind a point on the shank end of the drill and that that way when you heat it up you won't affect the temper of the business end. I have a small lathe so my points are turned from short lengths of brass rod with various sizes for a range of engines. My clamps have a habit of slipping so when the first hole is marked, I drill it and put a bolt in and then clamp up again. This greatly lessens the risk of a rogue hole. Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted August 22, 2018 Author Share Posted August 22, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted August 22, 2018 Author Share Posted August 22, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Better builder than me if you worry about a mess, mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 I use a yoghurt pot to drip clean engines,clocks and anything else that needs cleaning. I suspend the item on a string tied across the pot. Put petrol, thinners Acetone etc in the bottom.Put the lid on and wait.The fluid evaporates and then condenses on the surface of the grubby whatever then drips/runs off taking the dirt with it as a Trike tank Same principal. My dad did it to clean the workings of clocks etc. It's surprising how much dirt comes out of a clock's innards. If not working too well lift the lid a bit.Small pill / tablet bottles (plastic or glass) to hold small parts screws etc.are handy. Solvent can usefully be added here too .Give'em a shake now and then.Either method good for carbs Cast cowls on them( tapered of course) Or cast cowl inside the pot. Release agent in it of course. A gentle squeeze effects release. If you can find a parallel sided pot in the same stuff that can be used for straight cowls..Knives ,scalpels etc can be stuck into a block of Styrene or Oasis . Keeps them from getting knocked off the bench and into a foot Edited By onetenor on 22/08/2018 21:47:11 Edited By onetenor on 22/08/2018 21:58:22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted August 23, 2018 Author Share Posted August 23, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Evans 3 Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 My Eureka moment came when I found that left over and salvaged control horn bolts were the right size to tap through servo arms . I could then extend an arm by bolting a cut off arm onto the top of the existing arm through two holes . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Cracknell Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 I got hold of some fluorescent orange bag sealing tape and put a couple of turns around tool handles - screwdrivers, pliers, spanners etc. Makes spotting them in the grass dead easy when packing up - especially when in a rush....!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 Paint your tools pink They don't get "purloined" so often. Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Geezer Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 When gluing two small objects together ( in this case the two halves of the screw top of a Tabasco Sauce bottle ) - place decent sized lump of Plasticene - warm for preference - on the bench, press one of the broken fragments into the Plasticene and apply cyano' to broken edge, then re-assemble using forceps/haemostats/tweezers other fragment which has previously sprayed with activator. You could equally well use a bit of BluTac - but Plasticene's cheaper if you have grandchildren. For holding wire/small metal components a fly tying vice can be very useful, particularly if clamped to the edge of the bench, much more stable unless the base's weight exceeds a Kg! Edited By Old Geezer on 26/08/2018 13:08:04 Edited By Old Geezer on 26/08/2018 13:09:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted August 27, 2018 Author Share Posted August 27, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 A couple of days ago I took delivery of a Durafly Komet 163. Opened the box and no instructions. On inspecting the parts all the servo arms were inside the wings and fin. Found instructions on the web but only for the earlier version which appears to be one piece - mine needs the wings gluing in. Tried to see if possible to get the servos out to reposition the arms - no luck. Lightbulb moment, connect the Rx and magic the arms pop out. First time I've seen servos packed that way to protect the arms in transit. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hammond Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 There are some very useful springs in empty hand wash containers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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