Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang

[Gordon McConnell]

Reached the interesting stage in the wing build. I have completed the left wing structure by adding the LE and the wingtip. I have a book on the P51 and referred to some photographs of the wing tip to try to reproduce the correct profile. Think it has turned out quite well.

Now for the difficult part to cut out the u/c bay, the flaps and ailerons. Going to go very slowly to try to avoid mistakes!!

[Paul Johnson 4]

Nice going Gordon... but did you read my bit about leaving the sheeting off between R1 and R2 to get to the flaps?

Progress well pilot finally got a coat of makeup..

I used a gloss brown for the glass of his goggles to give the impression of glass

[RICHARD WILLS]

Well done chaps . All coming along nicely . Being a grizzled old Balsa basher , I dont take the whole thing too seriously . That is a great benefit , since I dont worry about messing bits up , because if you have a bit of spare wood lying around , then you can always make more pieces . One of my most flown P51s had a fair number of wooden coffee stirrers replacing some of the vital rib parts that had been broken over the years .

I really would encourage this more experimental attitude . For example . Unlike most people , I like my plane to look beaten up . It may not a factual weathering , but more like you see in Star Wars scenes, just plain weary .

It is (you will be surprised to hear , one of the few areas I actually enjoy . Its a bit like doodling , There are no hard lines to stick to and if you dont like it , just scrub it off .

Now , a lot of you will have olive drab sections on your Mustangs , so this is an ideal opportunity to dabble .

All you need a thin black indelible pen , A white gel pen , Black chalk and White chalk and a silver sharpie .

Here is the P38 I have been messing around with

[RICHARD WILLS]

Eric and Glynn also have one on the go .

[RICHARD WILLS]

It really only takes a few minutes and is quite relaxing !

[Gordon McConnell]

Hi Paul,

I did read it but rather too late. Will cut out some access when I come to join the wings together.

Your pilot looks good, obviously keen to get in the cockpit where he belongs!

[Gordon McConnell]

Richard,

I agree with you on not getting too worried about the odd error or two. Usually they are easily fixed, although it is satisfying to get it right first time 😄.
The weathering on the P38 looks great and I think it makes the model look much more realistic. Looking at old photos of these WW2 aircraft in service shows that they were not factory fresh looking for very long! Might try your technique on the P51 but that is some way off in time.

Gordon

[Jonathan S]

Eric,

You mentioned cutting R2 for the flaps and provided a great picture. I am unsure when best to cut this. If I do it prior to sheeting I lose the leg on R2 if I do it post topside sheeting will R1 get in the way of the saw and make it difficult to cut.

What is the best way of testing what and where I need to make the cuts?

thanks

Jon

[Jonathan S]

Also I have started to look at how I sheet the first wing. I cannot for the life of me work out how I am going to cut the sheets to the correct size shape.

For instance to

1. I measure the rib length then cut the sheet to that
2. Dampen it and conform it to the shape then mark the cut points then use a straight edge to cut
3. Some other option

This lack of under knowledge of the basiscs and very limited or information avalible on the web on these techniques is very frustrating. I pride myself on being practicle build a couple of cars and work in IT so probelm solving is something I do daily but cannot seem to work this stuff out must be age or fear of getting it wrong.

Anyway looking forward to some sage advise on what to do next.

[Paul Johnson 4]

Jonathan

Read page 27 it describes how I went about it.

[Paul Johnson 4]

It's the page Richards boys took the mickey over me NEVER EVER getting a label..

[Jonathan S]

Paul,

Thanks for the link I have read it a couple of times.

So I think I get the logical flow of how its done what I am missing is how to actually do it.

How do I know where to cut againt the leading edge for example. Do i measure the ribs then transfer that to the sheet and cut or conform it to the ribs and mark the sheet against each rib then cut?

So if I measure it how do I measure round the rib curve.  If I put it over the ribs to mark how do I make it when the place i have to mark is under the rib itself.... I am just a bit confused how to know where and how to mark where to cut. 

 

Edited By Jonathan S on 24/01/2021 22:56:53

[Eric Robson]

Hi Jon, it is not critical cutting the sheet from the main spar forward unless you cut it short . I lay the sheet on the main spar against the centre sheet ,hold it round the curve and stick my finger underneath feel the front of the rib and mark it with my finger nail Ribs 1&2 are parallel do this again at the rib where the first taper ends then mark the tip end then draw a line from rib4 to the tip rib ,or you can put a rule under and measure the distance check and double check before cutting . I always cut about a 1/4" oversize then trim back. When the top and bottom sheets are on carefully trim them back so they are in line vertically with the front spar this is important to get a good join for the leading edge. DO NOT CUT TO SIZE BEFORE FITTING as you will have no margin for error.

Edited By Eric Robson on 24/01/2021 23:38:43

[Paul Johnson 4]

Hi Jonathan

Eric has beaten me to it.

There is no one way to skin a wing but i used the main spar as a start point. although all is laser cut the tolerances can produce minor variations as well as the natural flex in the material so it is always better to cut everything slightly oversize then trim back. I also use a combination of PVA and Superglue. the PVA is on all points of contact except for a few spots on the edges which I tack into place using superglue. This helps to reduce the number of hands you need.

[RICHARD WILLS]

The pound shop , does lining paper and so does B and Q , why not just buy a roll and use it as templates ?

In your case, I would also consider getting a few sheets of spare balsa as this would take the pressure off .

Paper templates (or card ) will give you a very accurate idea of how to skin the wing .

As it says in the manual , the wing strength is derived from the spars . The wing skins can be applied in pretty much any fashion . Remember that even if it looks like a patchwork quilt , the covering material will fuse it all together .

[Paul Johnson 4]

Well as warbird enthusiasts we aim for clean beautiful lines with gentle curves of a thoroughbred. THEN we paint all those squiggly lines all over it...

[Jonathan S]

Paul, Eric, Richard

Thanks again for your help. Any hints on the best time to alter R2 as per Eric's suggestion.

Jon

[Eric Robson]

Paul, I don't think Richard would appreciate one of his P51's being turned out in Reno racer livery He was not happy with Martian suggesting a Spitfire in civvies.

[RICHARD WILLS]

Posted by Jonathan S on 25/01/2021 16:52:32:

Paul, Eric, Richard

Thanks again for your help. Any hints on the best time to alter R2 as per Eric's suggestion.

Jon

I dont think any right minded modeller would attempt it before 10am. Coffee would be around 10;30 so hardly worth starting before that . Ken Bruce and Popmaster to think about before Lunch at 12:30 . Little nap till 2;30 then afternoon tea and a fairy cake . Before you know it , its a quick walk with the dog, then dinner .

So all things considered , I would probably aim for 7pm - 715pm , before you have had too much to drink .

Failing that , leave it till the weekend .

But of course , that's a whole different kettle of fish . (well technically , that's Friday , but you know what I mean )

Easy to box yourself in , here at the sharp end . I try not to commit to anything .

[Eric Robson]

H i Jon, I think Richard has been using to much clear dope.! Regarding R2 I cut mine after the top was sheeted and the support tag has to come off then. I used a fine razor saw and did not touch R1, just hold the saw at 45 degrees and make small strokes.

[Jonathan S]

Paul,

I sympathise with RIchard for me building for the first time is a fine line between needing a drink and god I better not have a drink before I read Pauls post again and cut that bit of wood maybe the cellulose dope will give me some clarity but I guess it would have to be the clear dope then.... I'll get my coat.....

[Martian]

the thing is, is skinning a wing the same as skinning a cat

[Martian]

Posted by Eric Robson on 25/01/2021 16:54:02:

Paul, I don't think Richard would appreciate one of his P51's being turned out in Reno racer livery He was not happy with Martian suggesting a Spitfire in civvies.

yea a pink spitfire

[Paul Johnson 4]

Plllleeaaase don't start him on the pink spitfire again...

You'll have him turn to the shrinking dope next!

The clear non shrinking stuff is bad enough!

Edited By Paul Johnson 4 on 25/01/2021 21:13:20

[RICHARD WILLS]

Did somebody say Pink ?.............