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Laminating film - buying it and using it.


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Hi Dave if you use the matt laminating film you wont need to bother with tissue or fuel proofer. A Junior 60 size model will be fine with 75 micron matt film. Its very tough ,UV resistant takes paint , doesnt wrinkle or go slack in strong sunlight or hot days and is very cheap. My Elf bi- plane cost me under £5 to cover. You could go lighter with 38 micron film but generally comes in narrower rolls , approx 300m whereas the 75 micron comes on 60 plus mm wide. 

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Here in Oz 1m x 200m rolls of 38µ are available.

 

A friend purchased a roll and sold most of it within 6 months, the biggest pita was locating +2m long cutting tables,

cleaning them scrupulously then cutting and folding the film.

 

I used to help with this as two pairs of hands really made things easier and I was paid with 4 x 5m long pieces.

 

I have only used it under tissue or silk (with thinned nitrate dope) but plan to experiment with dying it as I have had great success dyeing Mylar film

(without adhesive) using Rit dyes.

 

* Chris *

 

 

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14 hours ago, Engine Doctor said:

Hi Dave if you use the matt laminating film you wont need to bother with tissue or fuel proofer. A Junior 60 size model will be fine with 75 micron matt film. Its very tough ,UV resistant takes paint , doesnt wrinkle or go slack in strong sunlight or hot days and is very cheap. My Elf bi- plane cost me under £5 to cover. You could go lighter with 38 micron film but generally comes in narrower rolls , approx 300m whereas the 75 micron comes on 60 plus mm wide. 

 

If I build the Junior 60 and if I cover it in film I would like to add tissue to the top of the film in order to give the model a traditional appearence. I have a couole of little four strokes which should fly it well but I feel that I would need to fuel proof the tissue. In the past I've used polyurethane exterior varnish over Solartex which, while not being perfect is good enough for me. My models usually look pretty second hand after the first few arrivals!

 

On the other hand, I have good stocks of Solartex so if I build the model I may just cover it in that like the others I've built or helped to build.

J60 in winter.jpg

Junior 60 in Flight.jpg

Junior 60 2.jpg

Assembling the Junior 60 (3).jpg

Edited by David Davis
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Deluxe Materials Eze Dope claims to be fuel proof to 40% nitro. I used it recently to dope tissue over mylar and it works far better than solvent based dope in this application. I think the reason for this is, because solvent based dope tends to reject the water still in the tissue. Eze Dope does, however, leave a rougher finish.

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4 hours ago, David Davis said:

If I build the Junior 60... etc

Junior 60 2.jpg

 

 

Your red & yellow J60 looks familiar David !   😃
Could it be the same one?  I dont remember where mine came from, I didnt build it... 

(sorry for the OT tangent Ron)
Cheers

Phil

 

 

j60.jpg

junior60_reeds2.jpg

junior60reeds.jpg

Edited by Phil Green
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2 hours ago, Phil Green said:

 

Your red & yellow J60 looks familiar David !   😃
Could it be the same one?  I dont remember where mine came from, I didnt build it... 

(sorry for the OT tangent Ron)
Cheers

Phil

 

 

j60.jpg

junior60_reeds2.jpg

junior60reeds.jpg

 

I don't think so Phil, mine had the tail glued on for a start and my electric motor was housed within the nose not stuck out like a beak! That said, I did sell the model soon after the photograph was taken so you never know. I chose the colour scheme to reflect that of my Uncle Geoff's Tomboy. Geoff was the man who taught me how to build. He was a draughtsman by trade and he had drawn up his own plan of the Tomboy double size but he died of cancer before he could finish it. Years later I finished and flew it.  Picture of it and my much younger self below.

 

Again sorry for the tangent.

 

 

Double Sized Tomboy.jpg

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21 hours ago, Phil Green said:

Ron as you know my models are smaller and a foot wide would be fine for me,

is this the right type of film do you reckon? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186086456740

Not sure if they all 'iron on' ...  this seems an economical buy as long as its the right stuff 😏

Hi Phil . Just to add that when buying make sure the film is for hot applicationan and not the cold type. The hot application has a heat sensitive glue applied just like our covering films. The clear film looks cloudy/opaque off the roll but goes clear as soon as you irom it on.

Just looked at the linnk and it is for hot application.

Edited by Engine Doctor
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