RCV58CD

[J D 8]

You are right it is not possible to press it from above. Could be old fuel residue gluing it in some, a soak in glow fuel could help. Then back to the above, oven will warm evenly [ just do it when other potential users not around ] whack the whole casing square onto the block and bearing should drop out.

  Have used the heat method of bearing removal on many items like farm machines, Land Rover gear box's as well as model engines but as noted above not RCV CD engines. Others who have may have more info.

Edited May 5, 2021 by J D 8
more info.

[Richard Acland]

Another  "big up" for Simply Bearings from me. Good price, speedy delivery and good quality.

[Frank Day]

Hi,

 

I have several RCV engines CD & SP and they all have a charactoristic clicking sound. Apparently some guy in the US created some  mod to reduce this, probably some sort of thrust washer but im not sure and possibly may cause damage.

[Bob Cotsford]

The 90CD that I had sounded like a bag of spanners until it warmed up! 

[Manish Chandrayan]

Bearing is a very tight fit on the cylinder.

Now I don't exactly remember if the bearing came out first or came out with the cylinder  but I do remember that lot of heat and pressing from top was required.

I used an aluminum tube to hammer out the cylinder. Advise was to use a press and I do not have it.

Similarly heated bearing, chilled cylinder and bit of tapping (using a suitable dia tube sitting square on the inner race of the bearing) was required to seat the new bearing on the cylinder,   

Best is to talk to Weston UK folks they had advised me on disassembly and bearing sizes.      

[Andy J]

Well finally managed to get the bearing out by using a screw driver to lever the bearing out against the cylinder casting. Minor damage to the casting but dont think it will affect how the new bearing will fit.

[Manish Chandrayan]

Eureka! I remember now, once the cylinder was hammered out from top (as mentioned earlier) the bearing clip was removed and then case heated all around with a Dremel flame and the case was whacked on a wooden block to release the bearing from the case 

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

Some of this sounds rather brutal!  I wish I could remember the bearing change I did in detail but I don't recall any particular difficulty using normal oven heating. What I do recall was that I stripped it at my parents home with minimal tooling after needing to stay there for a few days at short notice due to a family emergency and having the engine with me.

[Andy J]

Note no bearing lock adhesive was present when I dismantled the engine, is it worth applying this when I re-assemble the engine with new bearings? 

 

Also I need to make another head gasket. Are standard oil / water resistant types suitable for this application?

Edited May 7, 2021 by Andy Joyce

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

RCV say:

 

RE-ASSEMBLING YOUR ENGINE
Reassembly is a simple operation & the main difficulty is ensuring that
the gears are engaged in the correct position so that the engine is timed
correctly.
1. Carefully remove any bearing lock material from the back bearing and
the crankcase halves.
2. Assemble the crankshaft piston assy in reverse order.
3. Take the cylinder jacket and rotate the cylinder until the cylinder port is
equally visible in the exhaust and inlet ports.
4. Now insert two cocktail sticks (or similar) into the exposed segments of
the port to lock the cylinder in position. Insert the piston into the
cylinder bore and engage the gears in such a way that the piston is at
top dead centre checking that the crankshaft webb is horizontal.
5. Apply a small amount of bearing lock onto each bearing and assemble
the bottom half of the crankcase with the six screws. Do not over
tighten these screws.
6. Remove the cocktail sticks.

 

I would imagine that the clamping force is marginal to retain the bearings without distorting the cases and bearing fit is required to prevent the possibility (probablity?) of the bearings spinning in their housings.  If in doubt, you could try calling Weston Ltd. on +44(0)1795 521030 or +44(0)1795 522020 for the authoritative answer.

 

Head gasket?  Do you mean the valve cover gasket?  It's only there to keep oil from escaping so any suitable material (even a cornflake packet!) should do.

[Andy J]

Yes its the gasket on the cylinder head cover plate Martin. Note there is a tiny hole that goes through the rotating sleeve into the void covered by the head cover so it may see some oil from the engine crank.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

I doubt that it goes through - it's likely to be a centre drilling for locating it while grinding the valve during manufacture.  There will be oil but from blow-by or separation from the fuel mixture.

[Manish Chandrayan]

I had managed to salvage the gasket that goes under the top cover. It is made of the usual fibrous material/ I assume anything of roughly same thickness should work.  The gasket that goes under the carb manifold had to be sacrificed and new one made of some thin card that was also given a thin smear of silicone gasket material and clamped up   

[Andy J]

Purchased MR6000-ZZ/C3 bearings as recommended but unclear how I should remove the shields from the bearing. Any advice as how to proceed?

[Andy J]

Well got a bit further as found inserting a scalpel blade on the inner edge could raise the shield and then deform it sufficiently to grip it with some long nose pliers.  Now find there appears to be an inner plastic cover. Do I need to remove that as well?

 

[J D 8]

I was going to say small screwdriver but you came back. That is the actual seal/shield and needs to come out.

Edited May 8, 2021 by J D 8

[Andy J]

Well removed the inner shield that keeps each BB in place but what now prevents all the BB's bunching up?

[Engine Doctor]

The shield doesn't support any of the ball bearings , it simply adjust should to protect against foreign objects getting onto the races. The balls are kept in place with the plastic/ resin or whatever its made of ring that you can see in your picture.

The bearing is packed with some sort of grease. I wash this out before fitting to engine an oil it with any decent oil ( not 3in1 ) before assembly .

Edited May 8, 2021 by Engine Doctor

[Andy J]

So the inner plastic ring remains in place, yes?  Did remove it but found all the balls just bunched up together. Was confused thinking two items per side had to be removed by using the term remove the seal/shield.

[Jon H]

1 hour ago, Andy Joyce said:

So the inner plastic ring remains in place, yes?  Did remove it but found all the balls just bunched up together. Was confused thinking two items per side had to be removed by using the term remove the seal/shield.

 

 

RED ALERT! 

if you removed the cage and all the balls bunched up you need a new bearing as that one is finished. Even if you got the thing back in i would not be trusting it at 10000rpm after its been yanked out. They are not supposed to be removed. Its also possible that your bearing is designed to work with the shields in place to hold the plastic cage where it needs to be. Removing the shields may cause the cage to fail and all the balls to fall out into the engine. Very messy, not recommended. 

 

I am not exactly sure why you wanted to remove the shields in the first place. They do not seal the bearing against oil like rubber sealed bearings, i would have left them well enough alone. 

 

I recommend you get another bearing. 

[J D 8]

 Sorry my instruction was wrong. Did not understand what I was seeing on small screen.

[Andy J]

Well you were not alone in telling me to remove the shields JD, Manish also said in an earlier post in this thread to do the same. Luckily I have only wasted £3 and destroyed one bearing.

 

So just to avoid others making this mistake, Jon can you advise what are the general rules about when and when not to remove shields.

[Engine Doctor]

The inside shield should be removed so that the bearing can be lubricated by oil from the engine. 

Remove one shield , wash out the grease . Oil and fit to engine with remaining sheild facing out. Don't tamper with the cage.

 

These bearing are made in their millions for all sorts of applications hence shields being fitted to both sides. You remove shields  or not to suite your application.

If no shields are fitted to the bearing that you have removed the you buy an open bearing. 

 

[Graeme White]

Silly question and sorry to jump in. I'm looking at new bearings on an engine and most I see have shields. Why remove them to get engine oil if they are already pre-greased? Can't I just leave them sealed?

[J D 8]

  

In the high temperature of an engine the grease would become very thin like oil and escape, so there has to be a method of replacement. 

      In the early days of working engines before effective seals were developed you will see oiler pots on the bearing case that had to be refilled often.