Nigel Heather Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 I've been trying (and failing to solder some XT60 connectors today. The job is to attach connectors to a watt/current meter - I have a decent soldering iron with the correct tip - I've have soldering for over 40 years but I am finding that before the heat is sufficient to melt the solder in the contact cup and the wire the housing is melting causing the terminal to move. I can't see that I'm doing anything wrong but I wonder whether it is the quality of the XT60 terminals - I'm aware that there are genuine ones and there are copies - not sure what I have or even how to tell - wondering whether the house is melting because it is not a genuine connector - I'd appreciate any advice. When I say that the housing is melting, I don't mean that it is completely distorting, just enough around the terminal for it to move and then it is misaligned when the plastic sets. Cheers, Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RottenRow Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 Plug a spare mating connector into the one that you are soldering. That holds the pins in alignment. Pre-tin the connector cup and the wires. If the solder doesn’t ‘take’ to the connector properly, make sure that you are using decent tin/lead solder, not the lead-free stuff. I suppose if the connectors are not of good quality they could have been made using a different type of plastic, but I’ve not had any problems if I use the above method. Brian. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heather Posted July 9, 2023 Author Share Posted July 9, 2023 (edited) 9 minutes ago, RottenRow said: Plug a spare mating connector into the one that you are soldering. That holds the pins in alignment. Pre-tin the connector cup and the wires. If the solder doesn’t ‘take’ to the connector properly, make sure that you are using decent tin/lead solder, not the lead-free stuff. I suppose if the connectors are not of good quality they could have been made using a different type of plastic, but I’ve not had any problems if I use the above method. Brian. Thanks. I had tinned the cups and used good old fashioned leaded solder. But plugging the mating connector in is a good idea - I'll try that. Cheers, Nigel Edited July 9, 2023 by Nigel Heather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 The XT60 I've been using (probably originally from HK) are no problem at all and I've never bothered to take any precautions. The plastic housing seems to have a very high melting point. I use a 60 watt temperature controlled iron and 'proper' lead/tin cored solder. I've been soldering for 70 years 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Philbrick Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 I always use old connectors to stop the one bring soldered from getting too hot and the contacts moving, it also helps to keep them in place as it cools. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC57 Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 4 hours ago, RottenRow said: Plug a spare mating connector into the one that you are soldering. That holds the pins in alignment. You should always do this (not just with XT60s). I also hold the connector still on the bench by supporting it in a pair of pliers acting as a clamp, by using a rubber band around the handles to hold them closed (see pic). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 I have one of those gadgets with adjustable arms and croc clips (mine has a magnifying glass but I don't use it). I set it up to hold the connector vertical and hold the wires in place from the top. Then I have both hands free to hold iron and solder and the wire doesn't move. Just make sure the whole joint is at the melting point of the solder - ie don't melt the solder on the iron but on the joint itself. I rarely have any problems unless I forget to slide the heat shrink onto the wire before making the connection on an XT60 - not a problem with bullet connectors. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC57 Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 (edited) Yep, I was taught in tech college nearly 50 years ago, never carry the molten solder to the joint on the iron. Set the joint up so that you can hold the iron with one hand and feed the solder into the joint being made with the other hand. Incidentally, before some smart Alec makes the observation that the cable polarity in my post above is incorrect. It was a quick lash up just done for the photo! Edited July 9, 2023 by EvilC57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 Be VERY careful with the exposed pins in the pic if soldering onto a battery . If they touch the pliers they usually stick . It well worth using the click on cover to protct the pins or a short length of heat shrink or similar . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 This is my variation on the theme. I keep an old socket with the soldering end covered in a blob of hot glue, an aluminium heat sink/jig & a portable bench vice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 Nigel, what wattage iron are you using? Counterintutively, using too lower wattage will make it difficult to get a good joint and it'll be easier to melt the connector housing. I'd say 50W would be the smallest to use with an XT60 and with not too fine a tip. - My Weller 60W soldering station does the job well, quickly putting the heat where it's needed without overheating the surrounding plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 7 minutes ago, Cuban8 said: Nigel, what wattage iron are you using? Counterintutively, using too lower wattage will make it difficult to get a good joint and it'll be easier to melt the connector housing. I'd say 50W would be the smallest to use with an XT60 and with not too fine a tip. - My Weller 60W soldering station does the job well, quickly putting the heat where it's needed without overheating the surrounding plastic. Edit. Just came across this - exactly the method I follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Colbourne Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 15 hours ago, RottenRow said: Plug a spare mating connector into the one that you are soldering. That holds the pins in alignment. Brian. I did this when soldering an XT60 to a male Deans connector to make an adaptor. I pushed the female Deans on the end of the male Deans, but when finished, try as I may, I could not plug the adaptor onto a female Deans. It finally dawned on me that I had not removed the alignment female Deans, and I was trying to plug another female Deans onto the back of it...🤪 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 (edited) 16 hours ago, Nigel Heather said: ... the housing is melting causing the terminal to move ...I don't mean that it is completely distorting, just enough around the terminal for it to move and then it is misaligned when the plastic sets. 'Genuine' HobbyKing XT series connectors use high melting point material for the housing, quite difficult to soften - it sounds like your suspicion is right, these might not be pukka connectors. It could be technique - its essential to work quickly and if you're tinning beforehand, allow cooling time before soldering. I find heat transfer is quicker if you apply the iron inside the cup whilst tinning, rather than applying the iron underneath whilst feeding solder into the cup, yes it defies the 'rules' but in this case molten solder heats the joint much more quickly than a dry contact between the iron tip and the terminal underside. One last thought - you are using flux-cored 60/40 lead solder? Edited July 10, 2023 by Phil Green PS - dont forget the heatshrink !!! :) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 Was that afterthought an example of soldering irony? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC57 Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 2 hours ago, Engine Doctor said: Be VERY careful with the exposed pins in the pic if soldering onto a battery . If they touch the pliers they usually stick . It well worth using the click on cover to protct the pins or a short length of heat shrink or similar . Yes I’m always well aware of this when using the rubber band & pliers method. But it’s always done under controlled conditions when I’m on my own in my modelling shed with no distractions to cause any issues. It’s worked for me for many years without incident. And I obviously remove the connector from the pliers the moment the joint has cooled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heather Posted July 10, 2023 Author Share Posted July 10, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, Cuban8 said: Nigel, what wattage iron are you using? Counterintutively, using too lower wattage will make it difficult to get a good joint and it'll be easier to melt the connector housing. I'd say 50W would be the smallest to use with an XT60 and with not too fine a tip. - My Weller 60W soldering station does the job well, quickly putting the heat where it's needed without overheating the surrounding plastic. It's a Weller PU-3D rated at 50 VA which I take to be 50 Watts. One thing I should add - I said that I was soldering these onto a current meter - I'm using XT60 because that I all I use, don't need anything bigger - but the current meter supports up to 150A so has silicon insulated wires to accommodate that - so the wires are quite chunky, thicker than anything that'd I'd normally use with XT60. Cheers, Nigel Edited July 10, 2023 by Nigel Heather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 (edited) Martin - we've all done it! 🙂 Edited July 10, 2023 by Phil Green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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