JOHN MOSLEY 2 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Ron are you going to cover your model with Brown Paper, and if so are you going to show us on a Ytube video ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Good job on the covering there - be interested to see how you get on with the fuse as I've not used brown paper before either...... Cheers, Simon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 6 hours ago, JOHN MOSLEY 2 said: Ron are you going to cover your model with Brown Paper, and if so are you going to show us on a Ytube video ?? Yes and yes John. The idea behind the videos is to build the kit as Richard intended and in the most basic way. I’m restricting myself to only use parts that are ‘in the box’ rather than raid my stock. There are things that, if this was just for me, I would do it differently but I’m not going down those paths! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Ron, when are you going to make the video re brown paper as I would be very interested. bas 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted January 13 Author Share Posted January 13 Well the brown paper covering is finished. It went really well - until it didn’t! I made a few newbie mistakes, including PVA thinned too much, iron too hot and not even enough pressure (on the thin sides). Anyway, I’ve fixed all the worst bits and once it’s painted and doing a low pass at full throttle I doubt anyone will notice! If you’re building one of these and haven’t done this covering before (like me) I’d suggest doing what I didn’t do and waiting for Ron’s video. A video is worth a thousand words! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Thin your pva to the consistency of milk, paint onto the dull side of brown paper, wait at least 30secs for paper to " grow" , apply to surface smoothing out from middle with cloth, i use a travel iron dry to iron on, yes there will be some steam given off. Note pva reacts to heat. Edges can be given another brush of pva ironed flat to help stick down, i then leave overnight to thoroughly dry. Fine sand with very fine wet n dry used dry. To get rid off hairy feeling. Then i coat with thinned dope to seal the surface, before primming, this step isn't necessary. And rub down again . Just my method of finishing. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 I'm a few days away from covering but I may juggle the build to get to that quicker, or carry out the work on another wing I have laying around! The main things to watch are, use a good quality PVA, do not over thin, do not soak the brown paper, leave the paper for a few minutes before applying and do not apply excessive heat. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu knowles Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 (edited) I have used the PVA/BP covering on several models, large and small with (I think) very acceptable results. I use the same basic methods as have been outlined here. Paste the dull side, Let it 'ease' for a few minutes, Apply to the model working both side of the wing or fus equally. Once all covered I paint the whole thing and hang somewhere that can dry on all sides equally. any bubbles in the BP will shrink and disappear as it dries but even if it doesn't a light application of an iron will remove all trace. Lightly sand and then paste with PVA all over again. The next sand pretty much eliminates all signs of overlap. I usually paint with car celly but I look forward to trying emulsion match pots. Interesting to see all the variations on a theme. I only use BP on all sheet surfaces but a couple of years ago Ron introduced me to Laminating film which is first class on open frame. All power to everyone on here for showing the way on model building and showing that it doesn't have to cost a fortune to have a god looking model which is different to everyone elses. Edited January 14 by stu knowles 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 17 hours ago, Ron Gray said: I'm a few days away from covering but I may juggle the build to get to that quicker, or carry out the work on another wing I have laying around! The main things to watch are, use a good quality PVA, do not over thin, do not soak the brown paper, leave the paper for a few minutes before applying and do not apply excessive heat. We all look forward to that day Ron. Bas 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 I've just posted a video about covering using brown paper (it's also in the tips thread) 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted January 15 Author Share Posted January 15 5 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: I've just posted a video about covering using brown paper (it's also in the tips thread) Please accept cookies to access this content Excellent. Although it’s too late for this build I definitely can see me doing another one - and I know I could do a better job if I knew what I was doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Ron Just watched your demo video, well done mate,its so easy, i've been using this method since being introduced to it by Richard. Looking forward to the "weathering/panel lines" video, to see what techniques you use 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying Squirrel Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 Useful video, thanks. Which of the three finishes would you chooses if you had access to all and which would you choose if you had none of them already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 I have all finishes at my disposal! For me it would be a choice between brown paper and laminating film, but for dead easy, quick and cheap it has to be brown paper which I will be doing on this build. When I build the Tempest I may cover that with laminating film. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 16 hours ago, Ron Gray said: I've just posted a video about covering using brown paper (it's also in the tips thread) Thanks Ron, very informative. You did make reference to 'Ribs' but I thought the underlying surface was flat, made to look ribbed. I therefore assume that the BP was not used on open ribs !!!! Could you confirm this please. Great vid, thanks again. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying Squirrel Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 2 hours ago, Ron Gray said: I have all finishes at my disposal! For me it would be a choice between brown paper and laminating film, but for dead easy, quick and cheap it has to be brown paper which I will be doing on this build. When I build the Tempest I may cover that with laminating film. Apologies, I meant between the final coat of PVA, floor varnish or finishing resin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 2 minutes ago, Basil said: Thanks Ron, very informative. You did make reference to 'Ribs' but I thought the underlying surface was flat, made to look ribbed. I therefore assume that the BP was not used on open ribs !!!! Could you confirm this please. Great vid, thanks again. Bas The reference to ribs was due to the fact that I want to replicate their look on my FW190, Richard has shown an excellent way of using paints etc to trick the eye into believing that there are high points in the surface, I will be adding thin strips of brown paper on top of the covering which will give a physical ridge. Brown paper covering does not add sufficient strength for it to be used on open structures imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 5 minutes ago, Flying Squirrel said: Apologies, I meant between the final coat of PVA, floor varnish or finishing resin. Ah right, the sealing of the brown paper. PVA Pros - very cheap, dries quickly and gives an excellent surface for paint. Cons - not very much wrong with it as long as it hasn’t been thinned too much Floor varnish Pros - spreads easily, gives a hardish finish Cons - usually too wet and takes longer to dry Water based laminating resin Pros - dries quickly and gives a hard finish Cons - relatively expensive So, for me it would be between the PVA and laminating resin. I come down in favour of the PVA but it would be the really cheap ‘building grade’ stuff not the Gorilla Glue grade, circa £15 for 5 litres against £10 for 1 litre! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 54 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: The reference to ribs was due to the fact that I want to replicate their look on my FW190, Richard has shown an excellent way of using paints etc to trick the eye into believing that there are high points in the surface, I will be adding thin strips of brown paper on top of the covering which will give a physical ridge. Brown paper covering does not add sufficient strength for it to be used on open structures imo. Yes I understood you Ron, just wanted to make sure I had it right. Thanks again , Bas 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 43 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: Ah right, the sealing of the brown paper. PVA Pros - very cheap, dries quickly and gives an excellent surface for paint. Cons - not very much wrong with it as long as it hasn’t been thinned too much Floor varnish Pros - spreads easily, gives a hardish finish Cons - usually too wet and takes longer to dry Water based laminating resin Pros - dries quickly and gives a hard finish Cons - relatively expensive So, for me it would be between the PVA and laminating resin. I come down in favour of the PVA but it would be the really cheap ‘building grade’ stuff not the Gorilla Glue grade, circa £15 for 5 litres against £10 for 1 litre! Nothing wrong with building grade PVA, why pay thru' the nose for it. You make reference to using it with'Cloth/mesh' Are you alluding to using the PVA as the 'Binder' in a 'Layup' ref to 'Wing jioners'.? Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 7 minutes ago, Basil said: Nothing wrong with building grade PVA, why pay thru' the nose for it. You make reference to using it with'Cloth/mesh' Are you alluding to using the PVA as the 'Binder' in a 'Layup' ref to 'Wing jioners'.? Bas Ron , sorry slap my wrists for not paying attention, you quoted ' Water based laminating' resin not PVA. Do you know the basis of that resin (ie type) cant be the normal resin as in'Polyester' style GF resins, surely, cant imagine how they would be able to economically produce such a resin. Sorry to go on and on,. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 1 minute ago, Basil said: Ron , sorry slap my wrists for not paying attention, you quoted ' Water based laminating' resin not PVA. Do you know the basis of that resin (ie type) cant be the normal resin as in'Polyester' style GF resins, surely, cant imagine how they would be able to economically produce such a resin. Sorry to go on and on,. Bas More than likerly an Acrylic.( Amazon) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/eze-kote Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 Yep, that's the one I show in my videos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 45 minutes ago, Basil said: Nothing wrong with building grade PVA, why pay thru' the nose for it. You make reference to using it with'Cloth/mesh' Are you alluding to using the PVA as the 'Binder' in a 'Layup' ref to 'Wing jioners'.? Bas Yes, I know that Eric uses it for wing bandages as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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