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To try and put a figure on this is ignoring all the different factors which could affect the life of a servo. How has it been stored? In a warm, dry, heated house or a damp garage or shed exposed to wide variations of temperature and humidity? How has it been used? In an IC model exposed to engine vibrations, an electric model with minimal vibration or a glider with no vibration. How many abrupt arrivals has it had? Was it mounted correctly on its anti-vibration mounts and were the brass ferrules the right way up? Has the wire been tugged at the pug or circuit board, weakening the solder joints? Was it on a throttle so the potentiometer brush was usually at the ends of its travel, plus random points inbetween, or on a control surface with the brush at the mid-point most of the time? How hard was it having to work when in use?

It's old Powermax Polykote.... I bought all the paints left over from a shut down hobby shop. I mixed it using the old Methuen recipe. Black, ochre (I used linen colour), red and dark blue. I then mixed in a little olive drab to make it match my paint chip (it's from the RAF museum Sopwith). If you need a good replacement paint, and use petrol engines, use outdoor latex paint. I can see which is the closest NCS colour.

Well, after a lot of faffing about finally got the front casting to match the one side of the main case, tapped and loctited in M3 steel studs, not screws. The number of times I took that Sparey engine apart to get it all to clear and fit the threads in the 'aluminium' castings would have the threads worn or stripped. Thus the nose is on and saved. That is 2/3rds of the £67 saved! The rear will be a solid alum piece not the ropy casting as that is as good as scrap now.

Hope this is OK to post here. We're downsizing and moving nearer to family, so our dormer bungalow is up for sale. It has my workshop attached, 8m x 3.3m, and my artist wife's 6m x 4m studio in the garden, all on a plot of around 1/3 acre in the middle of the village. It's in the Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, about 15 miles from the Long Mynd for glider guiders. Listing can be viewed here The village is in a beautiful valley in a quiet and peaceful part of the world

Thanks Ron, that pretty much confirms my thoughts. It was out again today at the Bickley glider fly-in. Warm but not quite as thermally as we wanted.

More work done with the lighting. I won’t bore you all with the story of who I reached this stage. It was a case of several failed versions and a lot of head scratching. First job was to get it all roughed out on card. And finally..... Here it is at work, the light will come on.....promise

I have run the motor up using a 3s battery and measured approx 440 watts on the 10x6 prop. However it was running a bit rough and investigation shows that the bearings have seen batter days. The allen screws on the motor look a bit dodgy so i will replace the motor. I think I will also replace the ESC as the separate BEC added on does not inspire confidence.

Graf, what type and make of paint have used on the Pup? I'm interested as I have a Toni Clark Pup kit to build some time. Regards, Robert

So do I, a brush,,,,

Yeah but that is one ugly mother!

RCME free plan....(SHIFTY).....Richard Harris design...nearly ready for the off. ken anderson...ne...1...free plan dept.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, why build the same traditional aircraft?

I see your point. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Actuallly a smaller version was built and believe me, flies really well, the engine configuration helps to prevent snapping if an engine is lost

Lovely backdrop to leccys pics. I can attest to the benefits of smooth air - used to slope soar off Rhossili cliffs and the neatest land perpendicular to the slope was the US of A. Loads of slopes on the Gower Peninsular had glass smooth air.... we get bumps n lumps in Gods Own County

Missed your earlier post David. I have one, the XL, and only tend to fly it when it’s fairly calm. Having said that I do remove the wing extensions and fly it in more ‘testing’ weather. I usually fly to height (it’s electric powered) then just stooge around for about 20 minutes, it will sniff out thermals but you have to finesse stick inputs to not loose height. Best thing about the XL are the air brakes which are brilliant.

I wouldn't swap the hills for anything TBH and the hill there makes for a superb backdrop for photographing warbirds, I've collected some of my favourite pictures against that hill.

Where I come from in Essex , there are no hills . So Scotland does look Lumpy . Lovely scenery though (Scotland not Essex ) . I remember flying at St Leonards on sea on the South Coast as a guest to the very active Hastings club . Although it was windy , it was very stable and no problem at all, as it came straight across the sea with no lumps or trees .

The lumpy winds are direction related. At first they were dead southerly winds, so come directly over the hill in front and are pretty smooth by the time they get to the strip. During the morning they switched a bit to more of a SSE=SE direction, which come across the flank of the big hill and encounters two small opposing slopes just a few hundred metres away, which sets up a bit of turbulence. The worst wind direction is from the NE, as that comes across the trees and can be very lumpy indeed if the windspeed is high enough.

Yes, but I paint the rest with a brush. 😀 The blue and the red has good coverage, the white takes a few coats. I'm really satisfied with how the PC10 turned out. Now all the colours match the paint chips that I have.

I have two Hand built Acro Wots that need converting to electric So there is an OS 46 ax11 and an original Irvine 46 for sale OS nicely bedded in and smooth runner Irvine as new mounted and bench tested only Looking for £40 OS. £55 Irvine p&p extra Or collect Leeds area

"The servo hardware is likely to be of better quality in a digital servo than a cheap analogue servo because they can charge more...." The cynic in me says there is no substance to this proposition.................... along with all the hype, there is the opportunity to make more profit by using mostly the same hardware that rolls off Chinese factory lines in their millions. Anyone quoting "You get what you pay for" will be rebutted within another well known saying 🙂

Looking for a good Saito 45s. Must be the latest version with modified crankcase, locking prop nuts and later cast ali muffler. Should be stamped with the letter P ( or later letter Q, R etc) on top of the right mounting lug. I'm not interested in earlier versions. Thanks for looking.

Rotomax 80cc and 6200 LiPos.

Yup