Jon H Posted January 8, 2019 Author Share Posted January 8, 2019 Gents we are quite off track now so if we can bring this discussion to a close it would be appreciated. I know that all of the comments and suggestions come from wanting Laser engines to succeed and continue to grow. Believe me, i am all for that. Unfortunately things are never as simple as we would like but i will keep pushing to move things forward and, to be blunt, having to explain every move i make is not something i am interested in entertaining. I have neither the time nor the inclination. Suffices to say that Martin more or less has it right and i am the mushroom in the back shed (metaphorically speaking). On a personal level things are stressful for me at the moment with the loss of my flying club last autumn and having to join somewhere new, I am also trying to get through the minefield that is buying my first house and trying to work out how to 'import' my girlfriend from the USA. Visa's are no fun let me tell you. With all that lot in the background i will just walk away from posting here if i get too much flak, i just wont have the patience! But that is a way off. For now i will just call time on this discussion and get back to technical issues. Thanks all for your constructive input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 9, 2019 Author Share Posted January 9, 2019 Early 2000's model, looks ok on the outside and still supported for spares/serivce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Spicer 1 Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Just to follow up on Jon link a page back this is t he Fastrax remote glow fitted to my Laser 70, its a Precision fit and work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Thanks Gary that’s useful. Some of the other remote glow leads with cranked plug covers don’t fit that well on Lasers. This looks a better design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 17, 2019 Author Share Posted January 17, 2019 Posted by Gary Spicer 1 on 15/01/2019 10:45:56: Just to follow up on Jon link a page back this is t he Fastrax remote glow fitted to my Laser 70, its a Precision fit and work well. Has your exhaust clamp shed its retaining bolt Gary? it appears to be missing and could cost you an exhaust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Looks good and will be especially useful on my inverted engines like the mossie where I have to start the port engine and then stretch my arm under the nose to unclip the glow starter, then start the starboard engine, if I reach from behind I burn my fingers on the exhaust! Thanks guys for the lead on this (pun intended). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Spicer 1 Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 17/01/2019 10:19:24: Posted by Gary Spicer 1 on 15/01/2019 10:45:56: Just to follow up on Jon link a page back this is t he Fastrax remote glow fitted to my Laser 70, its a Precision fit and work well. Has your exhaust clamp shed its retaining bolt Gary? it appears to be missing and could cost you an exhaust! Thanks Jon, I cant check for a few days, but it looks like it is missing!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 17, 2019 Author Share Posted January 17, 2019 They dont call me hawkeye for nothing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Call for help! Confession!! I am guilty (before some of you choose to berate). I have some how managed to round off the hex recess on one of the screws that hold the rocker cover on my 150. Current situation being neither a metric nor a SAE allen key is able to get a grip. And no, the keys themselves are fine as they work perfect on the other screw. Any ideas on how to open the screw that has the knackered hex head ? Edited By Manish Chandrayan on 31/01/2019 10:12:27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul james 8 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Posted by Manish Chandrayan on 31/01/2019 10:11:52: Call for help! Confession!! I am guilty (before some of you choose to berate). I have some how managed to round off the hex recess on one of the screws that hold the rocker cover on my 150. Current situation being neither a metric nor a SAE allen key is able to get a grip. And no, the keys themselves are fine as they work perfect on the other screw. Any ideas on how to open the screw that has the knackered hex head ? Edited By Manish Chandrayan on 31/01/2019 10:12:27 If you can find a pin punch that is the right size to fit the head of the screw, give it a sharp tap with a light hammer and it will very often allow you to unscrew a screw that has this problem. If it is still difficult you might try an "easy out". I've got a good selection of those if you get stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 There is a product called Screwgrab which has worked very well for me in the past but the cheapest way would be to drill the head off - use a drill fractionally larger than the thread major diameter and go very carefully. There should be plenty of thread exposed to remove the remains with pliers or a Mini Mole Grip once the rocker cover is off. If you have one, a left hand drill bit (yes, I'm serious, they do exist) using the drill in reverse can be useful - the vibration and heat often loosens the fastener while you're drilling the head off... Edited By Martin Harris on 31/01/2019 10:32:22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Find a torx or similar star drive bit that is just a smidgeon too big to fit in the rounded out hole. GENTLY tap it into the screwhead using the smallest hammer you can find. If you are lucky the bit will bite enough to get the screw out. If it feels likely to spin try heating the screwhead using a soldering iron then try again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Last resort Manish, slot the head with a dremel Very carefully, with motor secured Mask off the head area with a shim of Coke Can, hole punched, with a paper or leather punch Secure the shim Cut a slot for a flat head screwdriver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 happened to me with my OS 91 4/st....the rocker cover.i took one allen bolt out and the other wouldn't have it...I drilled the head off and this left the stump in...I lifted off the cover and got a hold of the stump with some pliers …. no damage or mess .. ken anderson...ne..1...stump dept.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Thank you all, Will try the Torx first and heat the area some before applying the Torx driver. If that does not will see if I can use the pin punch and shock it (gently) into submission. That Screwgrab! Might as well order one to try out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 If the bolt was tightened too much into the rocker cover, spraying a bit of “plus gas” or other super fine release agent and leaving it over night before trying to undo the bolt might also help. Bolts do bind a bit to aluminium if over tightened. Edited By Tim Flyer on 31/01/2019 10:56:28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 You can also dive the a screw a few whacks with a small hammer. This will flatten the head off a bit and close up the hole. Then take an allen key or driver with a nice sharp end on it and tap that down the middle. It works like a broach and can re form the socket. If that fails then just drill it out with a 2.5mm drill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Update on the stubborn screw. First method employed was to use a Torx bit. That did not work out. Next was to whack the head with small hammer in the hope that deformed head will grab the key. Head did deform a bit, the key did grab but as soon as force was applied it slipped. All these were tried with the head heated all around with a heat gun. Next up was to carefully cut a notch in the head and use a flat screwdriver. The entire engine was covered with masking tape, including area around the stubborn screw. And using an almost worn out cut off disc on Dremel carefully cut a slot on the screw head. The worn out disc (very small dia) ensured that there was no damage to adjacent material. With the slot cut, attempt was made to dislodge the screw using heat and a flat screw driver. But it was seen that the head was deforming and the screw had not yet budged. Finally decided to drill out the screw. Drilling was commenced using a 2.4 mm bit and some oil to keep things cool. While drilling it was noticed that the slot had moved a bit (clockwise). That was an indication that the bond was broken. Drilling was stopped, the area cleaned (used a magnet to ensure all steel filings etc are picked up) and used the flat screw driver as a chisel at an angle. Few thwacks with a rubber mallet and the screw moved. Process was continued carefully to move the head about a full rotation. Post this a flat screwdriver did the job. Now that it is off, what size is the replacement screw please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 Posted by Manish Chandrayan on 11/02/2019 12:49:00: Now that it is off, what size is the replacement screw please? Was it a rocker cover screw? If so its M3x25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Yes Jon, it was indeed the rocker cover screw! 3mm should not be problem locally. On the good one, metric allen keys do not fit so I assumed them to be non metric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 They are metric. 2.5mm key should be the one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Could this be an early 150 and use Imperial fasteners, Jon? There is a 7/64" size which is not included in every "set" and would be approximately 2.8mm AF... Edited By Martin Harris on 11/02/2019 17:38:19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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