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Laser Engines - Technical questions


Jon H

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Posted by Ken Lighten on 01/03/2019 21:08:34:

Hi Jon, is it possible to get the type of sleeved nut supplied with the 180 (M10 thread) for the 150 which I think is a M8 thread?

Yes in theory, i need to see if i stall have some. I think they are on the long list of things to make.

Martin, 14x7 is a good choice for a mustang

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There are various ways of doing the sleeve nuts, the simplest is with a sleeve that goes back inside the prop, for these a washer with an oversized bore to suit is required. The other one I make up as required has both the sleeve to go into the prop and a protrusion at the opposite end of the nut with a thread to take a spinner centre bolt.

When making these for my own use I obviously have the engine and prop I'm going to use so can measure up from that to make the required parts. i don't have all the data for all the engines so if anyone wanted one or two I'd need info from them.

Typically for an engine with a crankshaft thread of 8mm or 5/16" UNF I make the outside of the sleeve 10mm diameter, with a 10mm thread the outside is 12mm diameter. Lengths of sleeve need to be considered so that with any given prop hub thickness the thread in the nut sleeve doesn't bottom out on the step on the crankshaft.

I don't want to tread on the toes of the guys at Laser and it is unlikely that in batches of 1 or 2 I could meet their very reasonable price of £8.50 for nut and washer. Not sure if they do one with a front extension for a spinner screw?? It is pretty basic machining work but I can understand if the guys at Laser are pushed for time to get some made.

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Im in the position where there are far higher priority jobs that need attention. The M8 sleeve nut is only supplied with the 160v and 240v..both of which are out of production.

I would like to do a complete overhaul of the accessories we offer but i have to get the engines sorted out first

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Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 04/03/2019 08:56:43:

Im in the position where there are far higher priority jobs that need attention. The M8 sleeve nut is only supplied with the 160v and 240v..both of which are out of production.

I would like to do a complete overhaul of the accessories we offer but i have to get the engines sorted out first

Makes perfect sense to prioritise your workload, easy for folks to lose sight of how many bits and pieces are involved when making a range of products like yours

I'm not looking to make parts on a commercial basis, just happy to help people out where I can for non standard or hard to get parts.

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I will be making up a flex exhaust outlet for my Laser 70 in my Acrowot ARTF soon . As the firewall to spinner distance is short at 120mm I have already made a carburettor scoop/vent similar to the one in the “ Acrowot laser” thread on this forum. For my exhaust pipe I am using some stainless steel flex tubing and will braze a sleeve formed by some 7/16” brass tube on the end. This seems to push fit fairly snugly into the cylinder head exhaust outlet and I was just going to wipe a very fine smear of high temperature silicone on that to ensure a good seal. What I was wondering is whether I might need to make two narrower sleeves and use two o rings between them to provide an even better seal as per the stock exhaust? The exhaust will be properly clamped lower down and I don’t think the noise will be bad without a can ( our site us not noise limited).

Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/03/2019 10:55:53

Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/03/2019 10:59:38

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Cheers Ron... luckily I have the stainless already . One of my club colleagues is an industrial catering engineer. It’s lovely stainless pipe. I did buy some of Mick’s pipe and brass that he sells, for my 180 (that’s a bigger outlet)in the Hurricane. This time I’m making it up myself . I fancy s bit of brazing plus this tube was given some time ago is the perfect size and want to use it . The outlet size of the 70 is smaller but my 7/16” (11.1mm) spare brass pipe seems to fit snugly 😊

Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/03/2019 11:07:58

Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/03/2019 11:08:30

Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/03/2019 11:09:49

Edited By Tim Flyer on 11/03/2019 11:10:38

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Posted by Chris Walby on 08/03/2019 17:24:33:

Jon,

Do you have a recommendation regards the method for starting Laser engines?

Electric starter, chicken stick or by hand and does engine size make any difference?

... you can tell the weather is rubbish wink

I missed this one somehow, sorry about that.

Anyway i tend to electric start most of my engines as they are buried in cowlings and its a faff to try and prime them ready for a hand start. Engines that i can get to for priming get hand started unless its really cold, then i just go for gold with the electric!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am sure I am right but best make sure before I buy .I have a Laser 80 and want to buy the Seagull Junker CL1 ( the first World War monoplane ) If Jon is out there could you just put my mind at rest .I am sure the Laser 80 will fly this model OK .I think ?

Edited By tigerman on 01/04/2019 17:27:55

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Posted by tigerman on 01/04/2019 17:26:48:

I am sure I am right but best make sure before I buy .I have a Laser 80 and want to buy the Seagull Junker CL1 ( the first World War monoplane ) If Jon is out there could you just put my mind at rest .I am sure the Laser 80 will fly this model OK .I think ?

Edited By tigerman on 01/04/2019 17:27:55

Yup, the 80 will walk it. use a 15x6 prop and all will be well.

I just looked at the specs again and the 80 will give the model more or less unlimited sport aerobatic performance. Looks like a great model though and from the instructions it looks dead easy to mod for the lower tank position should you mount the engine inverted. 

Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 01/04/2019 22:18:29

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There was a discussion somewhere about acccurately drilling holes in engine mounts. Jon said he glued engine to mount, and then did the pilot holes. Barbarian system I thought. I have just tried this technique in a vey tight, fussy installation. It works and is totally stress free. Thank you Jon.

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No worries Don. I use a small drop of cyano on mine as it isnt great at sticking to glass/nylon or aluminium. its also super convenient as a have a tube of the pound land stuff on hot standby at all times!

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  • 1 month later...
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