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Adhesives,Which are your favourite Brands?


SONNY MONKS
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I use Titebond white glue. Either DeLuxe or ZPoxy epoxy - usually slower 30 or 60 minute because I like the time to get everything aligned because anything I use epoxy for is critical. Poundland cyno seems to work fine when that's what I need. UHU Por or sometimes Gorilla glue for foam. The only problem with Gorilla glue is its short shelf life - the small bottle I have has gone off and will need to be replaced next time I get the chance. I keep my cyano in the 'fridge until I need it. I buy packs of 3 in 3s (9 in all) at a time and it keeps well sealed and cool).

Geoff

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Posted by Brian Hammond on 06/12/2018 21:04:08:

PVA from Poundland and epoxy from Tool Station seems as good as any!

I did try the Poundshop PVA but found it very watery and inferior to branded glues. Have you tried a test piece?

HobbyKing epoxies are fine - rebranded US Bob Smith Industries products. I've never found the expensive 'modelling' cyanos to be any better than the stuff I get from my favourite Ebay supplier often at 1/3 of the price.

Edited By Cuban8 on 06/12/2018 22:53:04

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Posted by Geoff Sleath on 06/12/2018 19:57:42:

Poundland cyno seems to work fine when that's what I need. I keep my cyano in the 'fridge until I need it. I buy packs of 3 in 3s (9 in all) at a time and it keeps well sealed and cool).

Geoff

I've been really impressed with the Poundland Stick-it cyano - sounds like the same one you use? I find it as good as thin ZAP and others at the club who've used it agree. Not only do you get 3 decent sized bottles but they come in a pack with fine applicators ... and even a pin to open them with!

For the measly investment of £1, I'd recommend everyone (who isn't allergic to CA) to try it...

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Zap thin cyano,

Soudal high viscosity cyano great stuff at a great price. I build mainly with this. ! **LINK**

Zap epoxy, 5mins, and 30mins. Sometimes mixed with glass 'micro' fibers. Good for reinforcing a glue joint and as a gap filler.

Evostick white pva

Occasionally Araldite, the 24hr setting stuff.

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Screwfix or Toolstation for PVA, epoxy and medium cyano (although they call it "thin" ).

And a couple of fancier glues:

Thin cyano, from modelling emporiums, all brands seem about the same to me. Needs to be proper thin to penetrate wood. I like being able to use it to harden up controls near hinges and reinforce threads in liteply and so on. Poundshop cyano is too thick for that.

Pacer or RC modellers "Canopy Glue", good for plastic stuff (hinges, canopies) to other stuff.

 

Edited By Nigel R on 07/12/2018 09:26:26

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I'm a bit picky with PVA, it used to be Evostick Resin W, preferably the exterior grade but that seems to have changed names to Evostic Wood Adhesive (Weatherproof) in B&Q now. Other PVA brands/types I've tried I found best suited for brown paper covering or wallpaper repairs. Wickes Cornice Adhesive is a good thick CA, Poundland for thin CA and for epoxy Z-Poxy 30 minute and laminating versions because it's been easy to get hold of locally in larger bottles.

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Posted by Nigel R on 07/12/2018 09:26:05:

Thin cyano, from modelling emporiums, all brands seem about the same to me. Needs to be proper thin to penetrate wood. I like being able to use it to harden up controls near hinges and reinforce threads in liteply and so on. Poundshop cyano is too thick for that.

Give the Poundland stuff a try. The CA in the three bottle pack is just like ZAP thin. I don't know if the tube packs are thicker - I would imagine they would be medium at least? Nigel Newby might be able to confirm this?

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Poundland cyano is OK, but I preferred it when they sold it larger bottles under the 'Tommy Walsh' brand. Wilko cyano is also good - I wouldn't use cheap epoxy, it does seem to vary in quality and IMHO is a false economy, especially when one uses epoxy on high stress, critical parts. Same with the quick setting stuff from all the manufacturers - 5 or 15 minute epoxy seems to be rather brittle when cured, which I don't like. 30 minute set I find to be a good compromise.

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As a serious builder, I got quite surprised when I thought about this and listed them all out.

Vitalbond cyano in super thin, thin, medium and thick varieties for traditional building plus foam safe for indoor stuff. Vitalbond because my local Boyes sells it and it works well, better than the cheap Blue Spot brand they have.

Deluxe Materials Tricky Stick is used from time to time to aid the adhesion of cyano to non wetting plastics.

Deluxe Materials Superphatic for putting wings and stringer type fuselages together because I prefer this to cyano as it leaves the joints with a little give rather than a brittle cyano joint. Brilliant stuff. There was a thread on this recently. I used it on my quarter scale Tiger Moth and that has held together well.

Deluxe materials Speedbond PVA, this is my general white glue for most balsa building jobs, although I do also use Titebond Aliphatic if I have an exposed joint line that will need sanding.

Deluxe Materials RC Modellers canopy glue.

Zap Z-Poxy epoxy in 5, 15 and 30 minute varieties.

Gorilla Glue, the original expanding PU glue from time to time, I wish it could be bought in 5ml capsules as even the 60ml often goes off in the bottle before I have used much of it.

UHU Por for indoor stuff.

Silicone sealant for gluing on some motor cowls / canopies that do not normally need removing, but need to come off for motor access where screws can not be used, these days rare earth magnets would be an alternative.

Pinflair silicone glue (from my wife's crafting stuff) for gluing servos or other objects in places, this has much less flexibility that silicone sealant and provides a stronger bond that is more difficult to break if need be.

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Posted by SONNY MONKS on 06/12/2018 18:37:02:

Epoxy-i like the devcon 30 min,marks on the sides of the bottles,allows accurate measures,cyano,zapp medium,and pva,just the standard,always been okay for scratchbuilding,uhu por for foam,whatever happened to balsa cement,is this still available!

Humbrol Balsa Cement is still available on eBay

And its fast drying properties are very useful for holding things in place, while your favourite glue is still drying in stress points

Also, for quick 3D modelling, balsa cement is ideal eg chuck gliders at events

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Balsa cement: Uhu Hart

PVA: Vitalbond Westbury Express - dries hard and enables it to be sanded if necessary unlike some PVA that dry "rubbery"

Epoxy: Z Poxy or Devcon depending on availability in LHS

Superglue: Usually Zap or anything available in the LHS

The balsa cement and PVA I obtain from Pegasus Models (Norwich) by Mail Order.

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  • 1 month later...

I see that no-one has mentioned 'no more nails' which seems to be a sort of quick grab white glue - I would much prefer to learn from someone else's mistakes rather my own ( much cheaper too ) - has anyone tried NMN, in particular for joining wings - as in balsa to balsa or foam to foam? Otherwise it's back to the 30 minute epoxy.

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