Gorilla glue

[Brian Dorricott 1]

Can anyone tell me which Gorilla glue is the foaming sort good for filling gaps ? I see loads of different types non foaming , clear etc which is the correct one for glueing balsa and filling gaps . What sort of drying times can you expect and does it sand well ? I didn't see any point in buying until I find the right one because the prices vary enormously .

[Geoff S]

Just had a look at my bottle and all it says is Gorilla Glue. Unless you expect to be using a lot then buy a small bottle because it can go off if you're not scrupulously carefull to make sure it satys dry. Any moisture makes it go off and you end up with a bottle of hard glue.

I think it may be called polyurethane but I'm not at all sure that's right.

Geoff

[Denis Watkins]

Lots of info here on this site Brian

**LINK**

[sgwlm]

i use this one for some of my building, fills the gaps, sands quite well also

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Brown stuff, "Damp it Glue it Grip it". Sanding it's a bit bobbly, excess cuts off easy enough though. Expands more than you expect so a trial on scrap is worthwhile.

Edited By john stones 1 on 01/05/2020 21:49:17

[Mike T]

When capping the bottle, squeeze it so the glue comes right up to the top of the nozzle before screwing the cap on.

[Colin Bernard]

The brown treacle like stuff is the polyurethane foaming glue - excellent for tough jobs but use sparingly as it expands quite a bit. (Managed to transform an indoor model's motor into a useless nose weight when trying to reinforce the mount!)

Also look for 'Lumberjack' brand - think I got mine from Screwfix. Just as good but cheaper.

There is also a white PVA Gorilla Glue for general woodwork which I am using at the moment and find it works well.

More details from the Gorilla site here

[David Hall 9]

It's good stuff, if a little messy at times. Be aware that as it expands in a gap, it can push parts apart, so clamp/pin things to be glued.

[Richard Ashworth]

I’ve used the brown foaming Gorilla glue for about 5 years mainly on foam repairs (mainly u/c s). It certainly bonds well to both wood and foam but it does expand a lot and I’m not sure what balsa jobs it’s really suited to.

For balsa and ply i have until recently only used either Aliphatic which is I believe stronger than simple PVA wood glue and will bridge very small gaps or epoxy for main formers and elsewhere if advised by the designer for high load joins.

In the last week I have given Gorilla white Wood Glue a try. Disregard the No Foam - it means it doesn’t foam not that it wont stick to foam, tried it, it does and VERY strongly. The only big minus is there is a warning on it - do not use at below 13C. I tested it at about 11C and it took a long time to set but seemed a strong join. Possibly not a product to use on a winter evening. Aliphatic says usable at all temperatures.

I have a Mild reaction to C.A. so occasional use, outdoor for quick repairs only.

Too many options!

Hope this helps.

Richard

[Brian Dorricott 1]

Thanks for info so brown colour and use sparingly and keep dry . I still can't see why they don't put foaming on the bottle and make it easy but Gorilla glue is like Loctite one name dozens of varieties . Normally use aliphatic for most jobs anyway but thought of it for those hamfisted jobs where it needs a bit of filling as you have left a bit of a hole.

[Frank Skilbeck]

I often use it instead of epoxy, joining foam wings, wing joiners, engine bulkheads that sort of things. Just make sure that what you've glued together is clamped together or the expansion will push it apart.

BTW Gorilla Super Glue is also very good, the one with a brush is good for application and the Gel super glue is also great where you don't want the glue to wick away.

I usually stock up when they are on offer at Aldi.

[Engine Doctor]

Gorilla glue original the brown stuff is excellent for glueing poorly fitting joints. Also good for fitting hinges, mending foam etc the list goes on. It sands very well and easily. The foaming action is powerful and can push any unclamped bits out of alignment.

Downside is that it sets by absorbing moisture so will go off in bottle quicker than other types of glues. Its also a polyurethane based glue and you can become sensitised by skin contact. Unless parts are going to be covered or painted it's a horrible brown colour so not very good for the average foamy model.

Not as strong as epoxy but a very useful glue to have with many uses.

For a little extra you can buy larger bottles of same type of glue from Axminster Tools but check setting times as they sell a slow and quick setting types . Both foam but again it can go off in the bottle so be aware .

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Andy48]

I use it for joining veneered foam wings. Does not affect the foam, but wing halves need careful clamping to stop the foaming action separating the joint.

[Martian]

Of course you do realise it's made from boiled down gorrilla bones !

[Bruce Collinson]

There is a white equivalent which is much less ugly on foamies but I recall it was withdrawn from UK market, no idea why. My son brought me some back from USA but is went off fast, like all bottled polyurethane does.

Pal has some in a cartridge, like mastic/sealant, which I understand lasts well because there’s no air left in contact. Keep meaning to blag a piccy, I recall it came from a builders merchants.

BTC

[John Robertson 3]

Doc Marten - "... Store it upside down, the crust will then form across the bottom of the bottle and not block the top. …" Doh! Why didn't I think of that? Thanks.