Ron Gray Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Posted by Nigel R on 24/11/2020 15:56:04: That is frankly ridiculous. To you Nigel, maybe, to Andrew obviously not! Things may change when stocks dwindle down but as I haven't a clue how much stock he has I don't know when (if) that will be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 I understood from published articles that the problem is that Andrew has no interest in model planes and hence no incentive to maintain the company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Barry, I thought I'd read that he wasn't a modeller and is now ready to retire so doesn't see it as a priority to pass the baton. Maybe I misread or mis-remember the article. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 Posted by Barrie Lever on 24/11/2020 16:05:59: That is often the case but Solarfilm Sales Ltd seem to be in OK financial shape and have been incorporated for over 10 years and submitted accounts in March this year. Sure, I guess my thought was whether holding on to the machinery and larger building to house them would maintain any kind of profitability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 Time will tell! In the meantime I'm still looking for a courier to pick up some flammable goods at a reasonable price! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Evans 3 Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 Hi all. I 've come across this product while searching the web . Anyone have experience of it . Would you chemists out there have any views . It's for automotive use and does not need to be mixed with a hardener and should be ok for petrol diesel and oils etc. not sure about our fuels though . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322296388960 MIPA C10 1K CLEAR COAT 1L LACQUER / HIGH GLOSS/ UV RESISTANT/ READY FOR USE/RFU | eBay It is supplied by Luxon Trade Ltd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Collinson Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 Keith, I'm no chemist but there seems to be a recurring pattern with anything other than two pack; it may well hold back low nitro glow fuel if cleaned off promptly, but is unlikely to resist higher nitro exhaust for long. There's quite a selection of spray lacquers in Halfords (I only know because the primers are usually hiding from me) and I've only used a gloss lacquer for balancing wooden props. If a single pack acrylic did work, it would be excellent; nobody on the thread has flagged it, as far as I recall; if you try it, let us know. My latest (Anderson's Rocket .. think Stevenson's with fewer wheels .. ) will have Oracolour two pack over white Halfords primer, if it ever warms up enough to spray in the garage. BTC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 The problem is that notromethane is a very power solvent, it is used in cyno debonders which should tell you something about its properties. I have followed all the threads on fuel proofers and although some people claim there is a single part proofer that works, I have never found one that works 100%. Enamel paints given several months to harden can be used for low nitro fuels but anything above 5% needs a 2 part coat. A. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Jones 3 Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 Oracover make two-part fuel proof matching colours and a clear one. You have to buy the matching hardener, of which there are two sorts, one for brushing and a hardener/thinner combined, which is for spraying. Either hardener is ok for all colours and of course you can use either hardener for the same paint if you need to spray part of the model and brush other parts. I've used the red and it's fine, though fairly expensive. You can get it from Sussex Model Centre though they often have to get it from the distributor. Like Andy above I have never found a single part stuff to be 100% proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 I looked at the Oracover products but the amount you get and for the price, it would cost too much to finish a large model. A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Collinson Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 Apparently a little of it goes a long way so perhaps not as dear as it seems. MS Leeds also stock it. BTC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 I recently received a pack of Rustins plastic coat. I mixed up a sample quantity and brushed it onto a metal can test-piece I sprayed with rattle can of metallic car spray. It is thinner than Sadolin and dries far more quickly to a hard high gloss. It self levels almost perfectly from brushing to look like a sprayed coat. Assuming the reports of its fuel proofness are justified it seems like the best substitute for the original Tufcote which was so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 (edited) On 01/01/2021 at 14:25, Andy Stephenson said: The problem is that notromethane is a very power solvent, it is used in cyno debonders which should tell you something about its properties. I have followed all the threads on fuel proofers and although some people claim there is a single part proofer that works, I have never found one that works 100%. Enamel paints given several months to harden can be used for low nitro fuels but anything above 5% needs a 2 part coat. A. Yes, I agree with your findings. Unless one has the equipment (and budget) to spray two pack epoxy finishes, as from what I've seen of friends' models they are fuel proof, then the next best thing is either an enamel finish or a protective coat of Polyurethane. Neither will be totally proof against glow fuels but their performance is greatly enhanced by allowing a longer period as is possible for the paint to cure rather than just to simply dry off. If you've ever tried to remove decades old oil paint from a property and how it resists paint stripper you'll know what I mean. Obviously we don't have years or decades for our models' paint to cure solid, but get the finish on as soon as is possible and allow as much time as you can for the paint to really harden whilst you're installing gear, setting up or whatever. A warm and well ventilated room or shed to store the model helps a lot with the curing process. Keep the model clean and use a good detergent or degreaser (elbow grease spray is cheap and works well) to clean down thoroughly after every flight. Simply planning the exhaust routing to avoid residue build-up is useful as is avoiding spills when fueling. With care, fuel resistant finishes are practical. The Rustins product looks interesting, but looking at their advert is claimed to be 'resistant' to solvents rather than 'proof'. Worth a try. Edited April 10, 2021 by Cuban8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ovenden Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 I'm watching this thread carefully. It looks as if this Rustin product could be very useful for glow-engined models if it can deal with 10% nitro fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 37 minutes ago, Cuban8 said: The Rustins product looks interesting, but looking at their advert is claimed to be 'resistant' to solvents rather than 'proof'. Worth a try. I think the word "resistant" is used by manufacturers to cover themselves as someone will find something that strips it and then sue them. Think birds poo, that attacks anything . Well worth a try. Even some two pack clear I have used has lifted if exhaust residue is left on it , so as you say a good clean is the way to go . Another common weak spot is the edges of the laquer on say a cowling . If the solvent can get to the base coat it softens it and keeps creeping lifting the laquer as it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 After letting my test-piece set for a day it looks like the adhesion onto the gloss paint coat is very good as the fingernail test proved. By comparison the same test with Sadolin PV67 gave disappointing results, it flaked off the paint easily even after several days. I think I'll use what I have left for treating the floor of my shed to use it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 Solarfilm Clearcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Wagg Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 Just done a test with the Rustins Plastic Coating and the application is not looking good. It is softening the red enamel paint and contaminating the brush. Previously I have used Ronseal polyurethane Ultra Tough Clear Satin Varnish but that succumbed to the fuel especially in the area of the exhaust. Whether I can do an intermediate coat with the polyurethane and then use the Rustins ?? I have seen mentioned Polycrylic on another website. https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony H Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 I use this Guild Lane Gloss Fuel Proofer (125ml Tin), Varnish or Spay on Car Clearcoat from Halfords. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 2 hours ago, John Wagg said: Just done a test with the Rustins Plastic Coating and the application is not looking good. It is softening the red enamel paint and contaminating the brush. Previously I have used Ronseal polyurethane Ultra Tough Clear Satin Varnish but that succumbed to the fuel especially in the area of the exhaust. Whether I can do an intermediate coat with the polyurethane and then use the Rustins ?? I have seen mentioned Polycrylic on another website. https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish John, Rustins contains thinner that is not compatible with enamel paint. The rule is to put the "hottest" coat on first which means the one with the most powerful solvent. This is because you don't want subsequent coats to dissolve the ones on underneath. I have heard of hot coats sprayed over cooler ones but it has to be done very carefully by dusting on the first layers so the solvent almost dried by the time it hits the paint underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Wagg Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 1 hour ago, Andy Stephenson said: John, Rustins contains thinner that is not compatible with enamel paint. The rule is to put the "hottest" coat on first which means the one with the most powerful solvent. This is because you don't want subsequent coats to dissolve the ones on underneath. I have heard of hot coats sprayed over cooler ones but it has to be done very carefully by dusting on the first layers so the solvent almost dried by the time it hits the paint underneath. Tony H and Andy thanks for the replies. The colour coat has been on a few days so I was disappointed when it bled through. I have ordered a tin of the Guild Lane that Tony H mentions so will test that. Tempted to try an intermediate polyurethane coat which I think should be O.K. with enamel. But whether the Rustins will react with the polyurethane ?? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 John, I would think Rustins will react the polyurethane so definitely try a test piece first. I have heard there are blocking coats you can use to allow hot paints over cooler ones but these aren't the stain block type. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted April 30, 2021 Author Share Posted April 30, 2021 So far I'm finding no problems with rustins as applied to bare wood. For mainly film finishes it seems a pretty decent choice. Can't speak for compatibility with other paints, i am paint expert by any means. Andy what was the source of your rattle can spray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony H Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 You should bear in mind the Nitro concentration, the higher the percentage of Nitro the harder it is to fuel proof against it. 10% Nitro or less is easier to fuel proof than 10%+. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 Nigel, Rustins Plastic coating isn't available in aerosol form due to the two part mix required. I use Rustins with added thinners and sprayed using a spray gun although I take appropriate precautions due to it's toxicity when airborne. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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