What's your favourite fuel proofer

[Nigel R]

Hello all

I used to use Clearcoat but that is no longer an option and my jar has been used up now.

What's your go-to choice for fuel proofer?

[Peter Christy]

I'm in the same boat! Since Clearcoat and Solarlac disappeared, I haven't found an equivalent!

My experiences with other model specific paints have been disappointing - to put it mildly! The best finish results I've had have come from car aerosols, but then you still have the problem of fuel proofing them. I've seen Rustins floor varnish (?) recommended, and it is on my "to try" list, but I have no idea how car paint will react to it.

Looking forward to suggestions here!

--

Pete

[Nigel R]

Pete, your mention of paint, for my context I am doing film covering so looking for something (a) to cover firewall and tank bay plus one or two other small exposed wood areas, and (b) that an iron-on will adhere to around the firewall.

[Jon H]

I hate all fuel proofers for one reason or another. Its the only thing about flying glow that irritates me.

[J D 8]

Hi Nigel, I just use my go to 5 min epoxy from BSI [ Bob Smith Industry ] Cover first then do the proofing of engine bay ect sealing the edges. Cheers John.

[Ron Gray]

Sadolin PV67 works well, but get the mix ratios correct! I've also had good results with Spectra spray and thinned epoxy for engine bays.

[Bruce Collinson]

Nigel,

What’s wrong with skinning epoxy round the front end, firewall, tank bay, anything in range of hot exhaust? Balsaloc before applying film, or there’s a Deluxe equivalent now I think. Maybe a thin coat of Clearcoat/equivalent right on the edge of the film to keep it from lifting?

BTC

[Engine Doctor]

Are there any chemist or paint specialists in our ranks that could identify the contents of Clear coat ? I still have a large tin and now use it carefully . I used to splash it around liberally in engine bays on glows and diesel powered models . I have two diesel powered models that I built approx 12 years ago and neither have any sign of fuel soaking or damage thanks to Clearcoat. Besides being a excellent fuel proofer it was also an excellent heat activated adhesive for coverings without iron on adhesive already applied , like light span or rip stop nylon etc. There must be an industrial quivalent out there it's just finding it .

I was surprised that nobody took over the Solarfilm brand. Until find an equivalent I will use my stock sparingly and any bigger builds will use skinning epoxy ,the thinner the better for the lower risk areas.

[Matt Carlton]

Skinning epoxy or even standard 5 minute stuff spread thinly works well for me. It makes the job much easier if you apply it during the construction of the model, but I usually smear a film of it with a gloved finger all around the tank bay, firewall and about 1/2" back down the fuselage before covering. Then again after covering, smearing over the seams and edges.

If the model has no cowl, I also cover the firewall with whatever covering I'm using. Tend not to with cowled engines due to the heat build up in the cowl.

Just a thought. 

POR Tank Sealer

Expensive, but not a lot would be used in our applications. Might be a good option, especially for larger petrol models.

 

 

Edited By Matt Carlton on 02/11/2020 09:58:14

Edited By Matt Carlton on 02/11/2020 10:03:57

[Nigel R]

I think the film part of solarfilm was past being a profitable exercise, what with the cheap films being available, although solartex seems to have left a hole in the market.

The paints and chemicals side of things, yes, we've lost a couple of really handy bits there.

[Nigel R]

Thanks for suggestions, all. Finishing resin seems like a favourite option so far, some before covering, and some after to seal the edges.

Anybody using the 2 pack proofers like Aerokote?

[Peter Christy]

Nigel: I've also used finishing resin with great success around firewalls, tank bays, etc. Solartex stuck to it OK after a coat of Clearcoat on top (rather defeats the object!), and I try to avoid film coverings, so I've no idea if they stick to epoxy resin coated wood or not!

I tried Flair Spectrum paints (years ago) and was not impressed! I was under the impression that Spectra was the same stuff, but I stand to be corrected.

--

Pete

[Jimbo565]

Polyester resin Fastglass used for car body repairs spot on

[Andy Stephenson]

The Guild brand is the same as the Flair product  but I too was not impressed with either the paint or the clear fuelproofer. I don't think any single part coating can be truly fuelproof to nitromethane, apart from Deluxe Materials EzeDope, while it boasts an incredible resistance to nitro but is really only a shrinking dope and probably not suitable as a finishing coat over paint and it has a matt appearance.

Tufcote (Furniglass) was the best but the hardener was declared to be carcinogenic and it disappeared to be replaced by something else inferior (AeroKote).

I have been experimenting with Sadolin PV67 but the recommended mix ratios leave it soft and easy to scrape off.

There is also Rustins plastic coat I may get some of this to try. While it's expensive to keep checking out the alternatives, what IS the alternative if you want to fuelproof a painted model. Engine bays etc and other out-of-sight places, epoxy is the best but it always yellows in sunlight so not practical for a whole airframe.

Edited By Andy Stephenson on 02/11/2020 10:49:13

[Nigel R]

Thanks Doc

Looks like a vote for Rustins from the esteemed Mr Lever.

[Braddock, VC]

Outdoor hammerite underneath film, discovered it by accident, v.v. heavy though can be thinned with xylene from tool station.

Horrible aroma.

[David Hazell 1]

I heard that an acrylic spray on lacquer is effective. No idea if it really is, but that's what I read.

[Alan Hilton]

Going only on smell I think solarlac is the same as Hamerite smooth ,I have used hamerite on a glow powered model with success but I haven’t come across a clear hamerite

Alan

[Robert Parker]

Hi All,

Over the years I have used Flair Spectrum paints, Spectra, and Guild they all have performed well for me. I have also used Poly C (nitro and petrol resistant) and Dulux Diamond glaze varnish, again I have not experienced any problems with these products.

Regards

Robert

[cymaz]

2 part epoxy is great

[Bruce Collinson]

Following up Engine Doctor’s post above, I think there’s a trail to follow here. Most of us seem to agree that Clearcoat was a pretty effective one pack fuelproofer, and I found it easy to use and not too noxious. When Andrew Hardman closed down I bought some, together with Balsaloc, and plugged him for the sources as it seemed to me that it would be no skin off his nose. I doubt very much that Derek formulated/produced either of them, in which case they were presumably existing formulations available in the trade with a wider industrial application.

I drew a blank, but I am genuinely surprised, given the breadth of both knowledge and experimentation evident on this forum, that nobody can identify it and find a source. Balsaloc is clearly very closely related to pva but with enhanced heat activation qualities. Opinions seem to vary as to substitutes though if I recall Deluxe now retail an equivalent. Odd that they haven’t duplicated Clearcoat, given their wide range of model-focused products. Perhaps if we asked the proprietor (forgotten his name ... Phil?) we might get a clue, or better still persuade him that there’s a market for it.

just ordered the Rustins two pack stuff as a fallback.

BTC

[Chris Channon]

Polyurethane varnish works well, both the satin and gloss, not the water based varnish though, has to be polyurethane ( clean with white spirit stuff)

Regards

Chris.C

[Stephen Smith 14]

2k automotive clear, cheap sprays nicely great finish and fuel proof to everything just don't breath the fumes

[Nigel R]

Decided to give some two pack a go, Rustins Plastic Coat. I'll report back when I've used it.

[Engine Doctor]

Posted by Stephen Smith 14 on 03/11/2020 14:30:29:

2k automotive clear, cheap sprays nicely great finish and fuel proof to everything just don't breath the fumes

Agreed it's fuel resistan but not as fuel proof anymore as it used to be. Like many products it's been made a little safer / user friendly but is still nasty stff as the hardener contain iso-cyanates . Its easy to get sensitised causing breathing difficulties and other problems; so not suitable for everyone if they don't have the knowledge to use it. Sensitising can be from breathing fumes and contact through your skin and once sensitised your that way for life.

Picking up on Bruce's post , it might be worth while contacting Deluxe re a Clearcoat replacement substitute ? Its a pity that the owner of Solarfilm products decided to take his knowledge with him when he retired .