Basil Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 I am using a 'Snake' for the first time. I can't seem to find any reference to the fitting/recomendations etc any where . If I have missed it can some one direct me to it's reference, or fill me in as to the fiiting etc. Many thanks in advance. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Sorry folks it looks like it's in the wrong section, I thought it was Technical help re builds etc not the new site Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 The best advice is: Keep them as straight as possible. Anchor the outer at both ends Leave enough inner exposed at each end to allow for flex due to the rotation of the servo or control horn but not too much that it can buckle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Just noticed the section I posted in. Mod please move this thread to the most appropriate section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Basil, It depends on the type a snake you are using. Can you post a photo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Rigidly support front of snake outer near the servo (allowing enough room for snake inner and servo connector to travel backwards and forwards). Rigidly support snake rear at fuse exit (ditto enough room for inner to move). Rigidly support snake outer at least once in its length between front and rear supports. By rigidly I mean abrade surface of outer then glue to support medium (hole through former, ply / balsa ‘bracket). Something like this 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 SMC, recomended I use the Sullivan GoldN rod semi flexible (Blue) type. There appears to be a hole of approx 2mm in the yellow/gold inner. What do you use to achieve a fit to horn/servo.Please. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) That's the way I read your query Basil. I use a 2mm thread adapter that screws into the inner say half way then a clevis for the horn/servo arm I have used ball joints here but any 2mm clevis will work. Extenders are here M2 and M3 Brass Extender £1.69 (4-max.co.uk) Just as an example. Edited February 21, 2021 by EarlyBird More info added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Steve, just screw them in, no kind of adhesive? Many thanks Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Yes just screw them in and they self tap. To be absolutely sure of what type of snake you have a photo would be helpful. But on second thoughts It must be one of these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Yes Steve , the Blue/yellow heavy duty, thier choice. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Sullivan sell a tool for insertion of the threaded coupler for their snakes. It's a piece of aluminium rod with a threaded hole in each end and knurled surface on the outside. You screw the threaded insert into the hole, so that it bottoms out, then screw the assembly into the snake inner - which makes sure that the length of threaded insert inside the snake is correct. Remove the tool then, after threading the snake inner into the snake outer, you add the correct clevis to each end. Moulded exit fixtures for fixing the snake outers to the fuselage are available which make a neat job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) Here's my recent use of Sullivan snakes. Rudder and elevator outers secured at both ends, but not too close to the servo-arms or control-horns to allow for the inner to flex slightly, and at as many stations down the fuselage as practical (just in the middle would have been okay but I had the option of intermediate stations so used them). Throttle and steerable nose-wheel linkages made up from offcuts. PS: Sullivan supplied clevises and studs of threaded-rod are Imperial threads, but you can either mix and match or just swap them out completely and just use metric equivalents. Edited February 21, 2021 by Jonathan M additional information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Impressive installations and advice here ? I learn something new everyday ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) Leccyflyer, where did you get the Sullivan tool, as I cant find any reference to it anywhere. To everybody that answered, many thanks I have learned a lot. Bas Edited February 21, 2021 by Basil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 I usually cut my own 2mm threads on rods! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 I've never had any success cutting 2mm threads for some reason. Of course one of the problems is that the 2mm push rods sold by SLEC which are threaded at one end only are rolled threads (like bicycle spokes) and the rod itself is less than 2mm dia. I just buy 2mm threaded rod from Modelfixings and take the easy way. I'm not a fan of snakes and I mostly use the outers as guides only for either metal push rods or Bowden wire for closed loop controls (it makes them easy to replace, too). Apart from closed loop I prefer 3mm carbon rods with 2mm threaded insets epoxied in at each end. They're amazingly rigid and dimensionally stable with temperature, which snakes aren't always. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 You made it look easy Ron, Thanks Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Try this page for the snake tool. Rcworld Note there is a US and a metric version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 I got my Stud fitting tool at RCWorld Ltd Basil. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 I'm too slow Basil LOL D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 2 hours ago, Basil said: Leccyflyer, where did you get the Sullivan tool, as I cant find any reference to it anywhere. To everybody that answered, many thanks I have learned a lot. Bas Bas I've had mine for years, got it at Steve Webbs, my local model shop at the time. The pictures are from RC Model World. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Stainforth Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 On my S6b, I used a snake for the rudder and anchored the outer tube at both ends and about four other places down the fuselage. I didn't find out, until I had completed the model, that there was more give in the rudder (when pressed sideways) than I liked, so I replaced the inner plastic push-rod of the snake with a carbon fibre rod of about the same diameter. This is quite a lot stiffer than the plastic and resulted in far less "give" of the rudder. So you might bear that in mind, if you have similar problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Good tip John - you can also stick a piano wire stiffener inside the snake inner if desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 I made a simple gadget to screw in those adaptors basically a metal clevis with the arms spread out to provide something to grip. then the adaptor is screwed into the clevis one end and then a bolt of same thread is screwed in the other end until reaches the adaptor and jams it. Then you can wind the adaptor into the hollow snake, when inserted far enough just unwinding the bolt releases the adaptor and the gadget unscrews leaving the adaptor in place. A picture saves fifty words ---I had a photo of this gadget and showed it several times but its in my forum 'album' and of course thats disappeared in this new forum! How can i get my pics back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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