Riot in my shopping basket................

[tiny-james]

So after some looking around today I found a Riot at Centuryuk.com

 

I understand that I need some batteries 

I have 2x 3s 2200 zippy compack 25c series

These batteries where bought from Hobbyking some time ago so now I'm going to Amazon for batteries and have chosen some 

RoaringTop Lipo Battery 2200mAh 11.1V 3S 35C(Continous Discharge) with XT60 but unsure what Continous Discharge means could someone please explane what it means but more importantly are these batteries the ones I need to fly the new plane.

I was thinking of buying another 2 batteries so that's 4 batteries in total I don't think I will need any more because I will need to rest the plane between batteries to let it cool down don't want to cook the plane 

[GrumpyGnome]

3s 2200's are fine - you may need to remove part of the plastic tray in the battery bay to make them fit without putting strain on the hatch.  

 

35C continuous discharge means they can cope with a constant current draw of 35 x 2.2 = 77 amps, certainly enough for the Riot as the esc is rated for far less current. (Take c ratings with a pinch of salt as they are often wildly exaggerated!)

 

I have none of that make of battery so the only comment I can make is regarding the XT connector. My Riot had Deans connectors so you'll either need to solder a new connector to the esc, or buy an adapter.

 

Don't worry about 'cooking' it - I often fly 6+ packs back to back.....

 

There are a few things you may want to think about doing:

 

• The plastic tray in the battery bay (see above)
• The axles are very soft
• The wheels are very hard
• There is a lump of steel in front of the battery bay - removing it makes it more 'lively'
• The control clevises are pretty brittle
• My wing joining tube 'rattles' in the wing.....
• Increase control throws
• Spinner can have poor balance (all 3 in my club were!)
• Better velcro for battery retention.

Sounds like I don't like it but that's not the case - I bought mine to replace a foamy Wots Wot and love it!

 

 

[Shaun Walsh]

Agree with GrumpyGnome on the points he made.

Don't be afraid to cut the plastic bottom out of the battery tray if the battery is too thick to fit easily. In addition, the battery hatch tends to crack where the two retaining catches are as the plastic can't cope with the flexing required to open the hatch, I epoxied two pieces of thin piano wire on the inside of the hatch in that area to reinforce it.

Also the undercarriage is a bit soft but at least it absorbs the energy of a less than perfect landing and can be bent back by hand for the next flight.

 

[Geoff S]

I discarded the battery hatch cover on my Riots and have a Velcro strap right round the battery.  I eventually replaced the axles with 4mm high tensile cap head bolts.  I'm on my 3rd Riot.  The first simply wore out after many flights and I somehow managed to take off with reversed ailerons after a repair. I've no idea how that happened.  I flew it rudder only but automatically tried to level the wings just as I was landing which finished it off.  The second one flew away after I inadvertently flew into a surprisingly low cloud in an otherwise clear sky.  The third is still with me.

 

A very sturdy model.  I agree with all the foregoing comments - removing that lump of steel and replacing it with balsa for structural reasons transforms it.

[tiny-james]

Riot (Red) has been ordered Today so god willing it should arrive next week Link to what I've got RIOT V2 PNP I have also ordered a RX from Aliexpress today and a 12v battery monitor for field charging I already have a mains/battery charger IMAX B6DC. so I just have to get some tools in a box for field maintance and some foam safe CA glue 

 

 

[GrumpyGnome]

Not sure if this applies (possibly clarified in another thread) but you also need:

 

• a flying club
• BMFA membership/insurance
• CAA registration.

Happy landings!

[Geoff S]

I'

4 hours ago, tiny-james said:

Riot (Red) has been ordered Today so god willing it should arrive next week Link to what I've got RIOT V2 PNP I have also ordered a RX from Aliexpress today and a 12v battery monitor for field charging I already have a mains/battery charger IMAX B6DC. so I just have to get some tools in a box for field maintance and some foam safe CA glue 

 

 

 

I don't think you'll need foam safe CA because the Riot is EPO and normal CA is needed. However, they go together very quickly with minimal effort without glue.  I bought my first one at a show and got it out of the box when I got home just to have a look and suddenly realised that I'd put it together apart from fitting the receiver.

 

Just had a look at the latest ones and they're £100 dearer than any of mine were!  Inflation indeed!

[GrumpyGnome]

yup, no glue required.

 

Mine was £165, delivered, about a month ago - they are £220 on Century web site.  Eeek! 

[tiny-james]

yes but I thought I go a good deal 

[GrumpyGnome]

Just luck of the draw... someone, somewhere will have had an even better bargain.

[tiny-james]

Model arrived today not opened it yet also lookinf at buying a EDF hawk or sumthing like it for later in the year (2023)

[MattyB]

26 minutes ago, tiny-james said:

Model arrived today not opened it yet also looking at buying a EDF hawk or sumthing like it for later in the year (2023)

 

Sorry, but a small, fast EDF model without propwash over the tail surfaces will be very short lived. Forget model number three for now, focus exclusively on your powered glider and (once you have got the basics with that under instruction) the Riot. How fast you progress will depend on our age, natural aptitude and the weather at this time of year, but most will take at least 6-9 months to get the Riot fully sorted to a standard where you would want to move on to something more demanding, and even then I personally wouldn't recommend an EDF.

[Don Fry]

So Tiny, you buy the jet. And they do free post over £xxxxx. So you get that Spitfire you wanted last week. So they are in the cupboard. And, you build them, cos you want to. Money, no reward yet. Then you make a mistake, the trainer is trashed, take off optional, landing compulsory. And you are on a steep learning curve. So you replace the trainer. Money and time. And then you get a bit better, and might even pass the A test, and you trash the trainer again, practicing the low swooping pass, and wing tip exit wot will look a million dollars with a Spitfire. So to save money, and time, the Spit is pressed into service. And while it ain’t a bitch, it’s not a trainer, one mistake, it’s trashed. Money and time, no reward. And another E Bay advert from a failed beginner with all sorts of strange purchases.

And eventually you take up conkers, or ballroom dancing. 
Last time I said this, I was polite. Now I’m not.

Tiny, if you don’t stick to doing the basics first, and have patience, you will fail. Full size is easier, if you want a pilots licence, you don’t wander into the flight line, sneer at the Cessna, and climb into the Mach Two fast jet.

Sorry.

[Shaun Walsh]

Don is right. My first model was a Riot BUT I had already flown RC 40 years ago and it still took me a good 6 months to re-learn the skills . That Riot went through 2 trees and is still flying. Don't waste money of stuff that's difficult to fly until you have mastered the basics.

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Don't disagree with owt said, all good advice from experience gained.

However, my best and most enjoyable years from my time modelflying are the early years, everythings new, shelves are full of "Ooh want ones". Did I buy stuff I couldn't yet manage ? Yep guilty as charged, temper that with some patience and stick time, you'll be fine.

[Chris Walby]

I have to agree with the above. My latest trainee spent the time and effort, progressed really well and made very few mistakes. Very few bumpy landings and no damage to his RIOT. Post A he has taken the tail off the RIOT, totalled a low winger and snapped the fuz on its replacement. 

 

It might sound harsh, but we are looking after your interest and want you to enjoy and stay in the hobby without hammering your wallet.

 

All the best.

[GrumpyGnome]

The little Arrows Hawk is cheap as chips, and flies beautifully.  But...... it's best when going fast and gets very small, very quickly and not recommended for a third model, as others have said. 

 

You'll not get bored with the Riot once you get to the point where you've removed the nose weight, and have the rates as high as the surfaces will mechanically allow............. should see you through Summer 2023.

 

Too many models too soon means you won't really master any imho.

[Rich Griff]

Any slope soaring hills/sites near you tiny ?

[tiny-james]

@Rich Griff no most of the flying fields I've looked at are flat. 

 

this has raised a question now. If when I have my BMFA membership with insureance and my CAA (already have) can I fly my plane (glider PhoenixS 1600) by the sea where there is a lot of wind providing I have a buddy to watch for safty. 

 

I do also have another question when I bind TX and RX will this have to be done every time I want to fly?

[Simon Chaddock]

Binding should be a once only operation for a Transmitter with a specific receiver. During binding they actually talk to each other so the Tx know the unique code that is hard wired into the receiver. How many different receivers your Transmitter can handle depends on which one it is.

It is possible under certain circumstances for the receiver to 'loose' a bind but in my own experience only because I have changed some part of the RC gear in the plane.

You should always cut the power to the receiver before switching off the Tx primarily for safety but it also ensures the receiver shuts down correctly reducing the chance of a 'lost' bind.

[Don Fry]

Tiny, there is a procedure. Lose, or need to bind, a receiver on a power model, remove the propellor. It avoids props chewing hands or faces. Part of a learning curve. Before we get to bigger stuff where the prop starts chopping bits off. Then when you know the throttle channel is the right way round, ie will not burst to full power on tickover on the stick, fit the prop.  An instructor will tell you this.

I’m losing track, there are a few threads, are you saying that you can now fly the Phoenix 1600, or you propose to learn to fly it on the beach. I’m also a bit unsure if I’d want to fly a Phoenix 1600 on a windy beach. It’s a small thermal soarer, it’s not got the ability to fly into strong wind. 

[GrumpyGnome]

If there's nobody about, why not fly from the beach but be aware... a) salt water and electronics don't mix well, b) sand and mechanical things (e.g. motors) don't mix well, c) you'll probably find more wind on the coast, d) dog walkers are EVERYWHERE at all times (at least on my local beaches.....).

[Rich Griff]

Any tall dunes, but you are a beginner ?

 

Long flat wide beaches are wonderfully in onshore winds particularly with rising ground behind the beach.

 

On shore breeze with wind having travelled for miles and miles over the sea...

 

No body about at all for hours , low tide in half an hour so off I go. Set up, checks done, start engine and bugger me this beach that's been desolate for hours now has 2 groups of 3 or more people, not 1/4 mile down the beach but right where I want to take off and land.

 

What can you do ?

 

I wait patiently till they bugger off.

 

The beach is huge, why come on the bit that I want to use ?

 

It's a public beach, that's why.

 

So yes you need a lookout who has a loud voice !!!

 

Once I had taken off I would fly over the sea, majority of the beach behind me and never end a turn heading inland.

 

Wide open space, good visibility, long landing approach, well not toooo long, flying the aeroplane onto the deck, not stalling the aircraft two foot up, then cut the throttle.

 

Even dead stick was not too much of a problem, just quick decisions and quick actions needed.

 

NEVER FLY in off shore winds PARTICULARLY if rising ground is behind you.

 

You will be able to land and take off when experienced to the left and too the right, cross wind effectively.

 

My beach years ago experienced winds from the south, west and north, if from the east, forget it !

 

I cannot fly from my closest beach, airfield tooo close.

 

I fly from above the village, ground just about useable but accurate landing needed due to rocks.

 

Post a picture of the beach area you consider on to use, prevailing wind comes from which direction, and gave you checked the local bye laws.

 

Perhaps I should not say this but quietly enquire about local bye laws, if asked why, DONT tell them as once they have said NO, that's it.

 

No local bye laws in local library, but I did discover and area used for model flying. The librarian was walking his dog, heard and saw an RC plane flying about, so went and had a look. Plane lands so he goes over for a friendly chat while his dog cocks his leg a p's on the plane lol !

[tiny-james]

@Don Fry 

Hello, no you are right I can't fly yet I'm just looking at options where I COULD fly if I decide to take my plane camping with me (caravan) next year.  I'm going next week to see a flying club (monthly meeting) to ask questions. I've been to one field (club) but as I have said " it's a long drive to reach the club" but this may be the club I join because it has a club house on the field with electric and benches to work at if needed. hay I even has AC/DC power, kettle and a microwave. They also have a monthly camping weekend where they night fly and just have fun and BBQ’s sounds good but for a hay I’ve got nothing on I'll go flying it's too far.

 

Also, it's quite costly but on reflection it's the best I've seen to date

[kc]

People who just turn up and fly models in a public space are the bane of aeromodelling - they have caused endless trouble for clubs!   Inexperienced pilots especially should avoid this - a crash involving a member of the public is the worst thing.  Don't do it!