Search the Community
Showing results for 'diacov'.
-
Diacov 1000 would be my choice. Tough as old boots and no issues in the sun. Got to be worth a metre from Sarik to test and see what you think of it. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/diacov-1000-adhesive-film-for-model-aircraft/ and the Diatex website https://www.diatex.com/diatex-produit/covering-fabric-diacov-1000/
-
Diacov (Sarik) is the covering with a heat activated adhesive backing, so applied in a similar manner to Solartex. Diatex 1000 is the same material but without the adhesive, so is applied in the same way as Koverall. Ceconite is similar I believe. It can be obtained from full-size aviation suppliers, and comes in a width of a couple of yards. When applying Diacov, and presumably Diatex, you will need a few new knife blades. As soon as the blade gets slightly dulled the material doesn’t cut cleanly, and frays, giving a ‘hairy’ edge. Brian.
-
I’ve used Sig Koverall to cover many models over the years but sadly this is another product, like so much of the goods we’ve relied on, which is no longer available. Until discovering Koverall, Solatrex was the material I’d use for large(ish) models but went off it due to its weight and tendency to eventually lift as fuel crept under the edges. Koverall, once adhered using the proper adhesive, could be doped and painted which completely sealed it from fuel creep and getting grubby. My Plan B for when I’ve exhausted my nearly depleted stock of Koverall was to use Diatex 1000 as its only marginally heavier than Koverall and, from memory, roughly the same price. I started thinking about alternate coverings and had read on other websites (mainly American) that curtain lining or dress lining had possibilities. A search on British websites showed that there is a polyester fabric, primarily intended as a dress lining, which is light, available as a 5 ft width and best of all. cheap. Its called Polyester China Silk or Habotai and can be bought in white translucent or pre-coloured. I thought I’d get some and give it a try. First a test panel was made up, simulating an aerofoil section and also incorporating a right-angle inside curve to see how well it would adhere to a rather severe change of direction and if it could be heat shrunk. The test panel The panel covered but not shrunk The panel shrunk and one coat of non-taut nitrate dope applied. The unsupported edge has pulled in markedly which shows that this material will shrink. Available colours My thinking now is that for vintage models particularly or build up flat-field gliders, this fabric could be a suitable alternative to Solartex or Diacov, which although I’ve not used it, seems to be Diatex with an adhesive layer on one side and a coloured layer on the other in much the same manner as Solartex. As I fancy building an electric assist flat-field glider, China Silk will probably be put further to the test. Comparison Chart -
Before I start this next build, how can I cover the Scale section undercambered wings. ? I'm a fan of food and nylon; not I was going to try Diacov heat attached covering for this one. But, unsure of the wings ?? All help appreciated. Albert
-
Covering undercambered wings. Dennis Bryant SE5a.
John Rickett 102 replied to Albert Ace's topic in Scale Matters
Fabric cement is made especially for attaching fabric to a structure. Available from the light aircraft suppliers, LAS or Skycraft. Brush it on where ever you want the fabric to stick, then brush through the fabric to adhere - it won't peel away, even after shrinking with heat or dope unless you want to reposition, in which case its associated thinners will release it easily. If you buy fabric cement you will also need the thinners as the cement is quite thick initially and needs different thinning ratios for coating the structure and for brushing through the fabric. It is purpose made for polyester fabrics and nylon. It may not provide the greatest of adhesion with pre-coated fabrics like Solartex or Diacov as the adhesive layer will form a barrier to brushing through. -
thanks everyone. Diacov looks just the ticket. Strong, light ,easy to apply and no sagging in hot weather (Fat chance at the moment). AND AVAILABLE !!!
-
I last bought it nearly 20 years ago from Pegasus Models in Norwich - and they were the only people who carried it then. It's joined the ranks of 'unobtainium' following events to which no blame can be attributed... Re alternatives, I understand 'Diacov' can be obtained with and without backing adhesive from several sources, including Sarik. No doubt someone with first hand experience will be along soon to confirm or correct suitability! 🙂
-
My Maricardo build is finally getting near to the covering stage (it's been a long slow build!) and I am thinking of trying out Diacov 1000 as sold by Sarik. For this model, I would prefer a 'linen' finish similar to Solartex/Oratex rather than the shiny alternatives. Any tips from those who have used Diacov 1000? e.g. Is it advantageous to use the likes of Balsa Loc/Cover Grip around the edges of wings/fuselages etc? How about overlaps, does the covering stick to itself, or does something like Primol help? Any other do's and dont's?
-
Has anybody been painting Diacov covering?. Thinking of using it!!!!. What sort of paint , they say PU, but I would prefer a water based product. Does the paint 'Clog' the weave?. Hope there are some users out there. Bas
-
I feel you need contrasting colours. Any single colour will 'disappear' in certain sky/cloud conditions. Our traditional cycle club colours are a white horizontal band against a blue body and I always found it easy to spot my wife as she climbed a col at her speed often far below me. (She didn't mind as long as I waited at the top 🙂 ) I've pursued the same principle with model covering and it seems to work. My current Fokker D8 build will be yellow and black stripes painted on Diacov. It will be the first time I've used Diacov but I'm hoping it's similar to Solartex. My intention is to paint the yellow first followed by black as I think the darker colour will cover the lighter more effectively. -
As per heading:- Came across, from the forum, about Diatex 1000 and Diacov covering. Is it the same thing ? Considering using it on a vintage model as opposed to Oratex. (mainly due to price)? Obviously only comes in one colour so may need painting unless I like the "antique" colour. A website recommends to use PU paint / varnish but would that be fuel proof for 5% nitro fuels.? If not then what fuel proofer to choose. Any info' much appreciated. Regards John -
Hi Finishing my electric Flair SE5. Normally use Nylon/Dope, but seen this Diacov 1000 from Sarik. Anybody used this before, looks and sounds a bit like Solartex ?. And the advert says ...finish with PU varnish..... What's that ?? Can I just put Valspar emulsion over it ? Cheers Maurice
-
I’m just starting on a 100” Minimoa kit and I’ve been looking around for covering materials as the 10m roll of antique solartex I’ve had in stock for the last 25 years turns out to be the end of a roll with adhesive only on the first metre! I’ve seen that Sarik hobbies are selling Diacov, mentioned as a good replacement for natural solartex and I wondered if anyone has used it yet and would like to comment. It’s certainly cheaper than Oratex but I’ve never used that either so how do they compare?
-
Have a look at Diacov 1000 from Sarik. Really good on compound curves and the seams disappear, it's light too. You need a very sharp scalpel to cut but I have found it to be much less fuss than any of the films. I haven't tried painting it yet because in the end I liked the natural colour on my glider https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/diacov-1000-adhesive-film-for-model-aircraft/
-
Diacov is a less expensive alternative to say Oratex. Or you could go old school and use doped nylon.
-
Well since solatex is no more the best solution(affordable) is either Diatex 1000 or Diacov both the same but Diacov has heat glue applied to it and the other you use a heat adhesive only applied where you need it so saves a bit of weight. The weight difference between the two is Diatex 1000 is 49g/m² and Diacov is100g/m² so a good weight saving can be had if needed. The best think about it there is no need for using smelly dope, just paint (flexible paint not brittle varnishes) your finish see manufactures details. also with ditex 1000 if you want you can used non shrinking Nitrocellulose for adhesion.
-
Probably depends on wheather you need a fuel proof finish . Many car paints claim to be petrol resistant but E10 fuel will melt them almost like thinners due to high ethanol content . Does Diacov need sealing first ? If it doesnt then 2K aerosols are available from car paint factors and are fuel resistant . A 2K laquer should be fuel proof. 2K paints are harmful by inhalation and skin contact so wear proper mask and gloves and work in good ventilation or outside.
-
KK Falcon Covering
David Davis replied to Skippers Walker's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Perhaps the only problem with Koverall and Diacov is that they are only available in one colour. Koverall looks white to me and Diacov looks like unbleached linen. With a vintage model like the Falcon this is not a problem, both appear to be transluscent and both should show off the model's structure well. Some coloured trim could be added of course either with paint or off-cuts as Skippers has suggested. Shame that Solartex is no longer in production, they made six Vintage Colours. PS. Skippers, my four year-old Swiss Shepherd keeps me active with two walks a day! At seventy-four I can just about manage it! -
KK Falcon Covering
Chris Bates replied to Skippers Walker's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Try Diacov. Used on my 151 inch KK Falcon. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/diacov-1000-adhesive-film-for-model-aircraft/ -
Larger model coverings
Frank Skilbeck replied to James Humphreys 1's topic in All Things Model Flying
Diacov or Diatex is a great Solartex/Oratex alternative, with Diatex you have to use a separate adhesive, Diacov has an adhesive backing so just irons on. You do need sharp scissors and knife to cut it though. Being used to cover full sized light aircraft it's pretty robust while quite light, I've covered a couple of models with Diacov now. Only downside is that it is not available in any colours so you'll need to paint it. Sarik Hobbies sell Diacov by the meter, full size light aircraft suppliers would be the place to go for Diatex, e.g. Skycraft -
diacov 1000 getting confused on a paint finish / is it possible to use aerosol car spray paints
-
That's all useful information for me as I'm intending to use an old pair of Williams wheels on my D-VIII that were originally on my Flair SE5a but which I replaced because the rims got badly scuffed when landing slightly skewed on tarmac runways (both my clubs had them - Hucknall and Ashbourne). I can only assume they were relatively cheap 20 years ago. The trouble I had was that the rubber tyre has perished slightly and stuck to the rim but otherwise was OK. Covering them with 'tex seems a great idea and your trials and tribulations - plus your success at overcoming them will help greatly - I may use Diacov (from Sarik) or scraps of Solartex I still have. I nearly always fit wheels using brass tube and small split cotters rather than collets as recommended by Flair in the instructions - using epoxy rather than solder and a clothes peg to keep the washer square is obvious now you've mentioned it 👍
-
Hello, Been thru' the posts , seems the only references to painting is for the laminating film, I have used this in the past, I like it. It does need painting.I am not sure how related the base material is!!.I cant understand the lack of comment on painting the Diacov, as so many references to its use, everybody say it needs painting but no references to what types of paint , other than'Chroma'. Perhaps this will prompt some comments. There are references to the use of PU in the Sarik add'. I am rather hoping that there is a water based paint that is suitable,and is satin/matt. Bas
-
Painting Diacov.
Frank Skilbeck replied to Basil's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
We've used it on several models, I've used a variety of paints, it seems to take them all OK. What paint are looking at, if I have some I'll paint up a scrap piece and photo it for you. Biggest "problem" with Diacov is that it's very tough so you need a sharp knife/scissors or you'll get some fraying. -
Painting Diacov.
john stones 1 - Moderator replied to Basil's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Some threads on it here Basil. https://forums.modelflying.co.uk/index.php?/search/&q=diacov&quick=1
