Any tips on how to stick my velcro to my lipo?

[Jonathan Kimber]

Hi All

 

Given the breadth and depth of info on this wonderful forum i was wondering if anyone had any tips for long term attachment of velcro strips to lipo batteries?

 

Other than using the sticky back stuff any thoughts on the matter?

 

For some reason, maybe a slightly greasy surface, my strips seem to eb coming off the lipos and it worries me!

 

I have just modified my one and only plane to have a wrap around velcro tie for up/down and left/right restraint and a small strip on the battery and battery compartment will stop for / aft movement. The wrap around tie also keeps the strip of velcro on the battery firmly pushed against the lipo so in flight condition im confident it will be restrained. Its just a pain to have to stick the strips back down after each removal from the plane!

 

Cheers for any ideas.

 

Jono

[Olly P]

I've seen the same thing Jono, but not sure how to fix it...

 

might try some UHU por type glue....

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

I always use either POR or a normal contact adhesive. The glue on Velcro type strip always seems to fail once it gets hot.

[Garry Pollard]

Hi

I always use the self adhesive stuff. I put it straight onto the lipo, and it never seems to come off.

On bare wood, I put a layer of 5 min epoxy, let it dry, which gives a smooth surface and place the velcro onto this surface. Dont try and get it off, you will fail

 

A wrap round strap, and job done

 

Garry

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

What Garry said

[Tim Mackey]

The problem is especially noticeable on batteries that are

A) Large and heavy

B) High current = warm...the glue softens.

C) A combo of the above.

 

On the larger packs I always use a wrap around tie system, and on others, UHU por to help 'em stick.

[Steve W-O]

At first I couldn't work out why you wanted to stick velcro on your lips.

 

After reading it properly...................... I use stuff that is £1 for a box with two rolls, and it has never come off.

 

When I put it on a foam plane, I use superglue to help the pre-applied adhesive

[Erfolg]

I have the same experience as Gary. My stuff seems to remain stuck (self adhesive), Even when I have wanted to remove it.

[Myron Beaumont]

This might sound ridiculously obvious but here goes .

Wrap a piece of velcro around the battery with the "fluffy" side on the outside so that it meets neatly at butt joint .Fold another piece twice the required length so that it has a length of "spikey" side over the join .,Fold over the two half lengths dangling over the end of the battery to meet and make a butt joint .This can then be stuck to another piece of "furry" velcro wrapped around your mount held together with a piece of "spikey" velcro to cover its join.

simples

[Grasshopper]

I keep a tin of lighter fluid in my workshop for just such a job.

 

Scrap of tissue, squirt of said fluid, wipe clean of grease etc. the (plastic) surface and most glue-backed things stick like ***.

 

Never let me down!

 

Also - the £1 for a box with two rolls (of Velcro) tip is spot on.

 

Peter

Edited By Grasshopper on 08/12/2011 19:41:59

[Vecchio Austriaco]

normally the self adhesive velcro sticks well to the battery - the problem is rather the wood. On wood I prefer Velcro without adhesive cover. I glue it on using cyano medium liquid- glues it very well.

On heavier Lipos the additional wrap around gives the security needed

VA

[Ben B]

I've found that the "proper" Velcro works but cheaper stuff comes off when the battery gets hot.

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

Posted by Steve W-O on 08/12/2011 19:00:51:

At first I couldn't work out why you wanted to stick velcro on your lips.

 

After reading it properly...................... I use stuff that is £1 for a box with two rolls, and it has never come off.

 

When I put it on a foam plane, I use superglue to help the pre-applied adhesive

Please share your supplier details with us Steve.....a quid for 2 rolls sounds like good value....

[Pete B]

I get mine from Wilkinsons. Provided you have a smooth, grease-free surface, it sticks like the proverbial...........

Pete

[Jonathan Kimber]

Well, thanks for all the replies. I'll be getting some UHU por, seems to be well recommended. I have a STRONG feelign too that the reason my velcro comes off is due to a greasy surface and a bit of heat when the battery is used.

 

I'll be degreasing with the lighter fluid trick, or other under the sink cleaning products, and givin it another try with some fresh rolls of Velcro, hopefully purchased from Wilkos asap.

 

Thanks again for the contributions.

 

Jono

[Steve W-O]

Posted by Steve Hargreaves on 09/12/2011 09:20:11:

Posted by Steve W-O on 08/12/2011 19:00:51:

At first I couldn't work out why you wanted to stick velcro on your lips.

 

After reading it properly...................... I use stuff that is £1 for a box with two rolls, and it has never come off.

 

When I put it on a foam plane, I use superglue to help the pre-applied adhesive

Please share your supplier details with us Steve.....a quid for 2 rolls sounds like good value....

 

 

Poundland or save 1p at 99p store.

 

Never had it come off, I think if the batteries got hot enough to loosen it, the velcro would be the least of my worries.

[Toni Reynaud]

I use a hot glue gun, and No, it doesn't come off when the battery gets warm. It also sticks to wood pretty well. Cleaning off before sticking is also part of the routine.

[David Davis]

Kindly remind this i/c dinosaur about the conventional way of using velcro to secure LiPos.

Do you glue the velvet side to the Lipo or to the fuselage?

[leccyflyer]

There isn't a conventional way AFAIK but having previously suffered an embarrassing "Look I'm still flying this Zagi, even though it hasn't got a battery in it "incident, I've settled on putting the fluffy side on the battery and the hooky side on the model. I also don't rely on just the velcro adhesionalone, but use the wrap around "seat belts" since then -used to make my own, but you can buy them know and they are a boon.

[Dave Bran]

I have found:-

1. The best adhesion hook and eye tape is usually the cheapest, not what you might expect. Yes, Wilco's stuff is OK! Buy from somewhere with constant turnover, if it looks old stock, AVOID!

2. Branded self stick "Velcro" usually has poor adhesive which strips even from the tape itself, so nothing to do with grease./release agent, etc.

3. If you put the hook side to the battery it'll pick up all sorts of dirt/fluff/grass in handling, def furry to battery, hook buried away..

4. Be VERY careful of some HK batteries, inc the more expensive HK Nano-Tech when adding furry self adhesive. The ident label you obviously do not want to over cover, and the obvious reverse has the warning label. HOWEVER, recent supplies have this label comprised of two layers of plastic film with an ultra thin ultra weak paper layer in the middle (the printed part of the label). This WILL shear EASILY!!! Unfortunately the label adhesive is very very good, so removing the full label before or the sheared residue after is not very easy.

5. Mr Sheen spray polish has a gentle solvent effect which helps remove most label glue.

Hope this helps.................

[SR 71]

Garry Pollard ? seen that name before somewhere i use the same as Garry never a problem in fact it takes some getting off

[leccyflyer]

The best Velco that I've found is by Sellotape - white and yellow, and I had a couple of rolls from a surplus place that provided art supplies to schools and other institutions. It is superb stuff, but I'm down to my last few metres.

[Dave Hopkin]

Never had a problem with glue melting, but then I try not to over stress the LiPos so I get a decent life from them, but pound shops usually sell non branded velcro self adhesive tape, de-grease the lipo, seal the wood side and bobs yer uncle - I use cheap poundshop cyno to soak the woos prior to the velco tape, let it soak in and dry before applying the tape

Furry inside or out is a bit like the "mode 1 or 2" debate, but as lomg as you stick (see what I did there?) to one convention its not the end of the world

Personally I also (try to remember) to label my LiPos with date acquired, Internal Resistence, Cell count and Capacity on one side and the velcro on the other so I can see how they are lasting over time and try not to order the brands that don't last well

When you have charged them up, whap a rubber band round them and tuck the power lead under it, remove rubber band before flight and you also know exactly which batteries you have discharged when you get home

[leccyflyer]

I;ve taken to colour coding the "doobers" that I use to protect the male bullet connector, which are made from offcuts of blue Sullivan snake outer - blue for discharged and green for charged. The green colour comes from a wrap of insulating tape around the "doober". Other bullet connector sizes can use colour coded silicon fuel tubing.

Plus I keep a battery doctor in the flight case, to double check as necessary.

[Gary Manuel]

The Lipo's are generally covered in very smooth shiny plastic and usually have paper labels right where you want to fix the velcro. Some of the self adhesive can soften if the Lipo gets too warm. This is what I do.

1. Try to remove the paper label to allow you to stick directly to the plastic.

2. Roughen the plastic area of the Lipo where you want to stick the label with fine sand paper.

3. Apply a thin coating of 5 minute epoxy onto the rear of the velcro.

4. Stick the velcro to the Lipo and then weight it down until it sets.