Scruffmeister Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 So, what's the secret to accurate stick cutting for built up fuselages? I've got my razor blade, sanding block, taking my time and marking carefully but really struggling to get results I'm happy with... Any jigs I can make? Perhaps a miniature disc sander would help get ends square and at right angle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Peacock Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Balsa Stripper from SLEC to cut to width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broken Prop Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Permagrit sanding blocks have a dead square profile. Lay the block sideways on the bench and sand the end of the stick square. For cutting square ends make a cutting board from a sheet of timber about 20mm thick. Fit a bench stop to the underside and on top of the sheet screw down a wide strip of timber with one end slightly inset from end of the sheet. The end needs to be sanded smooth. To use, hold the stick up against the wide strip and use the end as a razor saw guide. It will produce nice square cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffmeister Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 Hi Geoff - I have a balsa stripper, but that's not the issue. I'm not trying to create stripwood, I'm asking how to accurately cut the uprights/diagonal braces to fit between parts such as the fuselage longerons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffmeister Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 Hi Broken Prop, thanks - good tips on squaring. How about marking and cutting angles take are not 90deg - this seems to be the real crux of the issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Mitre cutting block, like this one: **LINK** If the angles aren't what you want you can either cut new slots in it or use a wedge to hold the strips to the correct angle then cut using razor saw. Edited By Ron Gray on 01/08/2018 22:08:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broken Prop Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Cutting the sticks that form diagonals in a fuselage is a real problem. I am am not sure that there is a 'right way' and there is certainly no quick way that I know of. What I do is switch on Classic FM, lay the stick over its intended position and mark one end for cutting. Saw off using the cutting board to keep the end of the stick square (hold the stick at an angle to the saw guide). Then sand to fit. Once you are satisfied with that end, lay the stick in position and do the same to the other end. Always cut slightly long and then sand down. It takes ages to do them all and there will be a fair amount of wastage until you get the hang of it. (Now you know why I turn on Classic FM before I start) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Make a few of these from scrap hardwood strips. Size to suit the balsa strips you're using for the fuselage framework. I mark with a scalpel but cut witha razor saw. I think the photos should be self explanatory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 I measure 8 times, then cut oversize n sand up. Permagrit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven S Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 This cutting fixture works good on material up to 1/8 [3.5mm]. For thicker material I use my mitre saw and mitre box.like Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Reynaud Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Plus one for hold in position to mark, cut oversize (preferably with a razor saw), then sand to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 As every angle will vary AND you have two angles on each end of a diagonal there are two rules. 1) Start at the end with longer diagonals so if you make it too small it can be used on the next one. 2) lay the strip over the side, mark with a scalpel, cut fractionally over size and sand to accurate size. A very small inaccuracy in angle can be filled with aliphatic resin glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Agreed. Also diagonals are much easier if you don't leave them till last. Instead, proceed from one end to the other - upright, diagonal, upright, diagonal. . . . Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Wright Stuff Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Posted by Trevor on 02/08/2018 08:07:48: Also diagonals are much easier if you don't leave them till last. Instead, proceed from one end to the other - upright, diagonal, upright, diagonal. . . . Why does this make them easier, Trevor? Not disagreeing, I just don't follow the logic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffmeister Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 Thanks all, this is really useful. PatMc - I love those marking jigs, simple yet perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broken Prop Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 I'll second that! Thanks for sharing PatMc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Posted by PatMc on 01/08/2018 22:37:03: Make a few of these from scrap hardwood strips. Size to suit the balsa strips you're using for the fuselage framework. I mark with a scalpel but cut witha razor saw. ........ I think the photos should be self explanatory. I like that idea Pat, I might pinch it next time I need to cut strip! Certainly beats my usual method of starting at the longest cross piece/upright, then using that piece of wood for the next shortest when I over-trim it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Hi I hold cross braces over the longerons and mark using a scalpel blade ,lining it up with the longerons. Then if it a 90 or 45 set cut use my razor saw with a mitre block. There angles I currently with razor saw free hand very slightly oversize and then sand to final fit before glueing. Works for me . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Posted by The Wright Stuff on 02/08/2018 08:42:46: Posted by Trevor on 02/08/2018 08:07:48: Also diagonals are much easier if you don't leave them till last. Instead, proceed from one end to the other - upright, diagonal, upright, diagonal. . . . Why does this make them easier, Trevor? Not disagreeing, I just don't follow the logic... Because you don’t have to cut the diagonal quite as accurately if it only has one upright to snuggle up to. Any slight error just means that the next upright may be slightly displaced from its nominal position, which usually is of no consequence - as long as you don’t let the errors accumulate of course! Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Wright Stuff Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Ahh, I see. Thanks for elaborating... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 The breakthrough for me was realising that this kind of joint can be easily cut just by looking at it. I could hardly believe it at first, but it's true... I saw it with my own eyes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broken Prop Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Surely you mean your own teeth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 I have to agree with Peter, cut over size then sand to fit, with a "fine" sand paper not 80 grit!! I use a fine Permagrit block used on its side to ensure at least one angle is 90 degrees, then sneak up on the fit. I am not sure if it is OCD or what, but I try and make every joint as perfect as i can, perhaps just obsesive me, but a good joint is a strong joint. I have tried this Miter sander and it does work well, but more often than not I dont need it and can do it quicker by eye. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 07/08/2018 10:10:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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