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How can I reverse a plan to build two wing halves


Phil Horne
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If you rub the back of the plan with light oil (3in1) or paraffin it will be transluscent for quite a long period but if you can build quickly then cellulose thinners will be OK for a couple of days. If you don't like those ideas then tape it to a window and trace the key details onto the back. Thirdly take it to a print shop and get them to print a reverse image.

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It used to be said that rubbing the plan with paraffin will make it transluscent so that you can build on the back. Otherwise, it's not really too hard to trace the plan onto greaseproof paper and build on that, taking care to build the opposite wing of course. I've used the latter method a few times, but not the paraffin one.

Gordon

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Posted by kc on 08/02/2019 16:40:14:

Actually all you really need for wing building is just the lines for the spars and LE & TE and lines for the ribs. No real detail is required so just trace those lines or draw on plain paper or the building board.

+ 1 yes

As kc says. You only need one line for the ribs, choose inboard or outboard. One line for the leading edge where I would normally use the outside line so if there was any variation in the wood size it would not affect the planform. Likewise for the trailing edge. Really just a few lines on some blank paper. Much quicker, much cleaner, cheaper and no need to cause damage to the original.

Levanter

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If you use oil, don't forget to protect your building board and the model with some cling film or similar. I've used cooking oil in the past, when there was nothing else to hand, but on my latest model I'm using WD-40 - it's easy to spray on!

see pic number 5 in post number 6 in the following thread: https://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=140631

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I can't believe what people are suggesting; paraffin, carbon paper, tracing paper, baby oil! Surely, as we live in the digital age, it easier to google 'commercial printers' (at least one in every town) and have a mirror image copy done of the wing. It will cost £2.50 tops. While you are at it attach a copy of the rear fuselage to the front and get them to do a copy of the complete fuselage. That way you will keep the originals pristine so that you can refer to it as the need arrises. It is what I have done with Peter's 'Little Miss Honky Tonk' plan, at any rate.

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Posted by Martin Harris on 08/02/2019 19:47:14:

You need to check that there is no distortion if you do this - I was caught out by a copy I had done by a commercial print shop which was significantly different to the original.

Quite. It might be better to get copies for both wings then they're more likely to be the same but check.

When we used to get prints done at work from microfilm on one of those smelly printers the message on all of then carried the message 'Do Not Scale'. It didn't matter to me because all my drawings were circuit diagrams but for mechanical drawings it meant read the dimensions marked rather than measure them with a scale because the paper isn't dimensionally stable in temperature or humidity.

Of course we aeromodellers have drawing with few marked dimensions and so use the drawings as jigs.

I don't always bother using the drawing for wings. I just draw a line and mark off the rib positions then use the actual drawing for reference for both wings but use my line for building on.

Geoff

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The mess-free method...

During daylight, tape to a large window and trace in pencil onto the back.

Use a 0.5mm propelling-pencil to mark accurately the outlines and at the junctions of each component, then you can use a normal pencil to roughly sketch in the rest so it all makes quick visual sense.

[back-to-front smiley]

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I've always used the "window / bright daylight" method but, think about it... you don't need to tape the whole plan to a window. Nothing on the plan can move, so just hold small sections against the window, as convenient, and mark the few "strategic" points that you need in order to draw enough straight (ruled) lines to build on.

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I just checked my photocopy of the LMHT plan for distortion. Both wings were spot on with no distortion with their span or chord, compared to the original. I found the overall length of the fuselage was about 2mm longer with the copy but with my sloppy approach to building, well within limits! I also checked the tailplane and various bulkheads and all were good, so it looks like I will be able to sleep at night! The photocopier looked pretty new so perhaps the technology is somewhat better now.

I guess it is horses for courses and as long as you end up with a workable plan it doesn't matter how you achieve it. Personally, I like to keep the plan intact just in case I have to rebuild something at a later date.

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Posted by Phil Horne on 08/02/2019 15:20:07:

i have the Moonglow plan but it only shows one wing panel. How can I get a reversed image of the plan to build the starboard wing. Is there a way of treating the paper so I can see through from the other side, therefore getting a mirror image?

I was going to build both wings in tandem on my WM Pilatus Porter P6, so I drew lines where the ribs would be, extending them onto my plasterboard building board, however when it came down to it I just taped the plan to the lounge window & drew the lines on the back.

p21.jpg

p22.jpg

Edited By Stearman65 on 08/02/2019 23:40:24

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