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RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI


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I use a razor saw for removing the glass parts and the ply bits. The glass will kill a razor saw, so I have one that is only used for glass parts, it's a bit blunt now but I cycle the good blades to glass use just before binning them. I don't like using a dremel, I am more likely to cut myself then the parts!

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Thanks Fats, and Danny has suggested a razor saw, both of which give food for thought. I have a couple of my own ideas, but I'll put them on hold until I've had a few more replies.

On the surface, it appears that there is no 'right' answer...

To save late comers from reading back, this was the question:

I have a question for the more seasoned builders. I've managed to separate the laser-cut plywood parts from the main sheet using a craft knife, but looking ahead, what's the best way to separate the glass parts and the brass parts from their carrier sheets. Any advice in this direction would be most welcome as I have no recent experience of models this size.

...and Fats suggested using a Dremel with a cutting blade.

Edited By Andy Sephton 1 on 04/10/2018 18:00:27

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There you go John, hope they are clear enough.

dscn0392.jpg

dscn0394.jpg

Hope to make a start on mine within the next week or two.

I will be using a laser for power, not sure what size. Dick van Mourik wrote an article in RC scale international (2004) and commented that the laser 70 was marginal but found the 120 to be a perfect match.

Regards

SW

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Hi John,

Here is a view of the 2 drawings as well. I had to decrease my original file which was over 14 MB/piece. surprise

Now it's just over 2MB but even enlarged in your preferred viewer you still can read DB's annotations. cool

Probably it might be of use for other Classroom Members as well.

Concerning Andy's 'cutting' question, as it was only adressed to "the more seasoned builders", I can't answer that I use a razor saw for ply, a small cutting plier, or preferably a Dremel w/ diamond disc for glass fiber, carbon and brass... blush

Cheers

Chris

 

Edited By Beth Ashby Moderator on 31/10/2018 08:02:50

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NOTE > regarding the DB plan views I posted, the forum software is resizing the pics to 1024 pixels width while my posted originals are 3000 pixels.

If someone wants a better & larger copy, please PM me an email address so I can send them in the proper format. yes

Cheers

Chris

Edited By McG 6969 on 04/10/2018 20:00:59

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Posted by McG 6969 on 04/10/2018 19:28:56:

............Concerning Andy's 'cutting' question, as it was only adressed to "the more seasoned builders", I can't answer that I use a razor saw for ply, a small cutting plier, or preferably a Dremel w/ diamond disc for glass fiber, carbon and brass... blush .........

OK Chris...it's a fair cop! But good answer, anyway!

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I don't know if this link was posted earlier on this thread but even if it was, it's worth posting again for the sheer elegance of the manoeuvres, never mind the looks yes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIyGIQs8bSI

PS ... ignore the commentary, though it's a shame to blank out the gorgeous RR Kestrel engine sound

Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 04/10/2018 22:15:42

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I must confess I was not expecting people to go charging off on their own and start the fus without some guidance. If you are building the leccy version you haven't go t a plan, it is in my head! So you really should wait until I have made sure it goes together as planned.

On the plan (IC vaersion) there are sort of triangular ply doublers to spread the load from the beech bearers into the fus sides. On the leccy version the ply doublers are full height, and pass forwards of the bulkhead F1, through the slots in F1. The doublers should be 1/32nd ply.

fury17.jpg

These parts are just placed together

fury18.jpg

This is the ply doubler, it needs to be in 1/32nd ply

fury19.jpg

The doubler goes on the inside of the fuelage sides, and fills this slight gap snugly.

There are two wide longerons that sit level with the top of the fus sides so beware as these affect the fit of the bulkheads.

The IC version shoulf be fairly vanilla and follow the plan, but again if you are not 100 sure you understand hold back and wait for the rest of us.

Cheers

Danny

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the full size doublers go in the front section of the fuselge and slide into F1, they will need notching at the top rear to clear F2.

my formers F5 and F6 have the notches where they glue into the fuselage cut wider than they show on the plan.

the formers are the right size, i will just have to add some packing to fill the gaps.

Tony B

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Posted by Ernie on 05/10/2018 07:46:24:

Mon Dieu SWIMBOS in for a shock.

I proudly showed her the finished tailplane skeleton. That's a fine wee wing was her only comment

ernie

Nice one Ernie - funnily enough, I was thinking the same myself when looking at the tailplane blank. It's bigger than the wing of most of the models I've built in the past 30 years! I would add that my main area of modelling is Scale Indoor Free Flight!

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