Tony Bennett Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 i will be using tape on mine, so hints on the best way of doing it would be great. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin collins 1 Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 I have a bring and buy Bryant Fury i am refurbing and am interested in the tape method, any advice or links to websites that show it being applied would be helpful.............Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Thanks Guys, I can do it in litho and it would give the best results, but is a great deal of work. Foil/tape will look okay too. I don't get good vibes on the paint front. Unless it is in camo or painted as in the Nimrod Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Sephton 1 Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 I would finish yours in the way you feel is best for your model Danny. As for me, I'm going the Mick Reeves sticky-ali route. I need to experiment first, but it does look good when properly applied. I believe the only issues are that it doesn't do compound curves very well and it requires a hard rub-down, so the ground needs to be hard. i.e not soft balsa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 I agree with Andy, Danny. Build the model to your own requirements. If you feel you must do a demo then try putting Lith on a hard boiled egg or similar. You wont get any better compound curves and if you manage that you will be in even more awe that you are already are.. To answer your question - yes - I am going down the Lith path mainly because I am clumsy butter and lith is slightly tougher than tape. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Litho is not an easy material to work with, but very sattisfying. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 I'm going down the Ali tape route for the cowl and litho for the sides and blisters on the cowl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose L. G. Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 I`m open to both systems. Litho and tape. If you don`t mind you can tell us how to work with litho and go away from us. Jose Luis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Hi all, I also tend to be sceptical about chrome paint. However, have a look at alsa easy chrome. If its half as good as the pix, its worth a look ernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Rustoleum chrome is really good but only on a really smooth surface I used it on my Mustang but it needs over spraying after as it tends to rub of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Mustang link Rustoleum over Chrome Oracover , the oracover looked to plastic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2W Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Hi Danny, Much as I would like to try litho plate, I am having enough problems as it is without taking on a new problem altogether. I am beginning to consider changing to a complete paint scheme rather than gilding the lillly and adding extra weight with the litho. It seems to me that adding litho to single curved parts is not too difficult, but something like the cowl is much more demanding. If you have time to show us how it's done, I would certainly be interested. William Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Rusby Posted November 13, 2018 Share Posted November 13, 2018 I was perusing the Peter Warburg drawings taken from the original Hawker Siddeley Fury1 production drawings (approved by Sidney Camm) and came across the following useful wing info: Top wing: dihedral 1 degree, incidence 3 degree 20 minutes Bottom wing: dihedral 3 degrees 30 minutes, incidence 3 degrees 50 minutes. I shall 'press on' with using litho, I love the really shiny parts of the Fury. Stuart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 13, 2018 Share Posted November 13, 2018 Very handy Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose L. G. Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 A pic of a few Furys with tailwheels. The tex of the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 It seems as if the tailwheels were a late retro-fit in service rather than as manufactured. At least it gives us a choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 For those who may not have known (like I) Model Builder 1976 had an article by Peter Westburg. Part II (conclusion) can be accessed Here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 Thanks Manish Interesting. I hadn't realised that the Mk 2 had an additional cooling vent for the larger engine. Just what we need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 Anyone got a decent 3v for the Mk2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daithi O Buitigh Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 Part I is also available here, which has a lot more detail of the inner framework. Interesting to see that the fin was offset by 3.5 degrees to port, presumably to conteract torque. Martyn - no three views but a good collection of photos (including the export variants) here Edited By Daithi O Buitigh on 20/11/2018 13:52:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 i have been busy designing and printing the rad cowling. fits in two parts and is covered with chrome tape. did the oil cooler as well. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Hi All Does anybody have the full size or scale dimensions for the Fury wheels / tyres (in particular the width) ? Sorry if this has been previously posted - cant see it. Thanks Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 I really should have gone back to the car for my tape measure when we went to Duxford the other week. You can scale from the Westburg drawings, probably fairly accurate. But looking at a Fury and two Nimrods I saw three different sizes of wheel and tyre. The Nimrod 1 had a wire wheel! I will see if I can get another day off, and go again, want to meet me there Martin Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Danny Let me know if you have some dates in mind. Are the westburg drawings only available from NASM or is there a UK distributed ? Cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Hi Guys, what is the instrument at the bottom rignt of this pic, just below the brass switch; Any info would be welcome ernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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