Field box battery ...... advice required

[J D 8]

11 hours ago, GrumpyGnome said:

3S lipo cable tied to the starter (20cc max engines); NiMh glow stick (don't tell Jon but some planes have on-board-glow units..); manual fuel pump.

 

I'm a heathen and have NEVER put a LiPo into storage - but I use cheap packs and fly year round.

   

  I use onboard glow units for some models where connection can be awkward, but of the type that you push a button [little 2s batt powered] and for 15/20 seconds you have glow to start your motor then goes off and remains off [ this type fine with Jon I recon] 

        I like as you just press button, spin prop and away to go. Nothing to connect or disconnect.

     PS, also a bit of a heathen with Lipos.

[GrumpyGnome]

I've never seen an issue with a glow stick, but have seen wires caught in the prop, and on an airframe when lifting a plane with a running engine, causing the nose of the plane dipping towards legs..

 

Shows the need for vigilance and care, irrespective of equipment.

[Engine Doctor]

I used to use a 12v 7amp hr lead acid in my flight box but as i seem to be using it less frequently  of late the batteries quickly suffered. I removed the old battery and soldered a heavy leads to the panel input that has an XT 60 connector. If the box and panrel are need I take a 3s 2p li-ion pack along and plug it in when required. Pack is assembled from cells out of old laptop battery packs or old tool/ drill packs that can be bought cheaply. Usually only one cell has gone down rendering the pack unusable but ideal for cells . They hold charge well, give far better power for starter motors and are much lighter than lead acid or Nimh equivalent. You will need to fit a balance lead etc and charge with a lipo/li-ion charger but most of us have them anyway.  For glow plugs a glow stick is prefered method.

Edited March 31, 2023 by Engine Doctor

[steve too]

18 hours ago, toto said:

What is the best kind of battery

 

I don't know about best but, in common with lots of posters above, I use an old LiPo to power my starter and glow. IIRC it's a 3S 4500mAh.

 

My glow starter is based around an XL4015 regulator as suggested this topic -

 

 

12 hours ago, GrumpyGnome said:

 some planes have on-board-glow units

 

Once the prop size gets to 13", my glow planes get an onboard unit.

 

Edited March 31, 2023 by steve too

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

I used to use a simple ammeter, at the time a 2v 10ah lead acid battery.

 

I only use an onboard heater when the engine doesn't run properly, as most do ( OS, Enya and Saito ) especially the bigger engines don't need one, and it's only something else to go wrong.

Edited March 31, 2023 by Paul De Tourtoulon

[steve too]

11 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:

I only use an onboard heater when the engine doesn't run properly

 

I use onboard starters to minimise the amount of time my body parts spend near spinning props.

[leccyflyer]

I think in the event I should ever want a large petrol engine powered model and onboard starter would be a requirement.

[Nigel R]

I think we've scared the OP off... he only came here for a battery recommendation...

Edited March 31, 2023 by Nigel R

[Cuban8]

Hands up who's forgotten to disconnect their glowstick and then proceeded to fly off? Inverted engines can especially catch you out........guilty as charged, I'm afraid - but only the one time to the best of my memory. 😖

Edited March 31, 2023 by Cuban8

[GrumpyGnome]

✋

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

Never made it to flight but I’ve come close. 
 

I’ve used the twist lock versions extensively and never had a glow plug come loose. 
 

I gave up on commercial flight panels after experiencing  - and seeing numerous examples of - circuit failures putting out unregulated 12V onto the glow output (this excludes a number of my clubmates using the wrong output terminals) which invariably costs 2 (and often more) glow plugs before the light dawns.  However, I did build a glow unit utilising a very cheap regulator module and digital volt/amp meter which is useful for monitoring the fuel mixture in the cylinder as well as providing reliable ignition. 

[Eric Robson]

1 hour ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said:

Never made it to flight but I’ve come close. 
 

I’ve used the twist lock versions extensively and never had a glow plug come loose. 
 

I gave up on commercial flight panels after experiencing  - and seeing numerous examples of - circuit failures putting out unregulated 12V onto the glow output (this excludes a number of my clubmates using the wrong output terminals) which invariably costs 2 (and often more) glow plugs before the light dawns.  However, I did build a glow unit utilising a very cheap regulator module and digital volt/amp meter which is useful for monitoring the fuel mixture in the cylinder as well as providing reliable ignition. 

I too use the twist and lock and starting up my Laser powered Chipmunk as it was warming up a bang then the engine stopped with the prop still turning. fearing the worst, no compression and the prop still in place I thought the crankshaft had snapped. on further examination the glow plug had come out. after that I still use the twist and turn glow stick but check the plug regular for tightness. 

A friend of mine blew two gold plated OS four stoke plugs due to a faulty flight panel, not literally gold but at £15 each  not far off.

I keep my field box as light as possible as I fly all year weather permitting, and now 87 yrs walking across a muddy field carrying a large aeroplane and field box is getting no easier so no flight panel no lead battery,  a glow stick a hand pump, a starter with a 3s 3000 lipo and a few tools and a half gallon of fuel is enough for me. Having said that I only live 3mins drive from the field so it's easy to go home and get another plane or whatever I need. 

Edited March 31, 2023 by Eric Robson

[Cuban8]

22 minutes ago, Eric Robson said:

I too use the twist and lock and starting up my Laser powered Chipmunk as it was warming up a bang then the engine stopped with the prop still turning. fearing the worst, no compression and the prop still in place I thought the crankshaft had snapped. on further examination the glow plug had come out. after that I still use the twist and turn glow stick but check the plug regular for tightness. 

A friend of mine blew two gold plated OS four stoke plugs due to a faulty flight panel, not literally gold but at £15 each  not far off.

I keep my field box as light as possible as I fly all year weather permitting, and now 87 yrs walking across a muddy field carrying a large aeroplane and field box is getting no easier so no flight panel no lead battery,  a glow stick a hand pump, a starter with a 3s 3000 lipo and a few tools and a half gallon of fuel is enough for me. Having said that I only live 3mins drive from the field so it's easy to go home and get another plane or whatever I need. 

I haven't used a flight panel for years, but back in the day I used leads and banana plugs to make the connections both to the 12V starter output and 2V glow on the panel. Yes, you know what's coming..............

Probably blew a couple of glowplugs by mixing up the connections - not so bad when plugs were only a couple of quid a time. Hard wired it all in the end. Panel still sits in my flightbox for ornamentation. Had the box for my 40th birthday 26 years ago - nice, sturdy fold up type thing that you can use as a seat when closed. Kit built from 'Somebody or Other' (can't remember) Aviation.