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Propeller Reaming


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Horrible things those tapered reamers as only a very small part of the hole is correct diameter.

 The leading edge of each section of a good stepped reamer is angled to ensure it align's in the prop hub.

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I use 2 methods but use either drill bits or parallel (straight) reamers going up in size in stages. If I'm doing it by hand (smaller props) I hold the reamer in the vice and turn the prop over it by hand which tends to ensure that the prop is turning centrally around the reamer. The other method, for larger props, is to use the pillar drill, starting with a drill bit that exactly fits the existing prop hole and chucking that in the drill as this ensures that the prop is dead centre. Then, with the prop clamped in place I either use reamers or drill bits to enlarge the hole, the latest ones I did (wooden 20" and 21") needed taken out to 13mm and these were done in one pass with a very sharp drill bit.

 

Reamers like these.

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I prefer the stepped reamers, but find that they don't last very long before losing their edge, so I have three or four of them in my prop box. Have never really got on with the tapered reamer. With APC-E and similar props it's a boon having the insert in the back of the hub, which ensures a nice fit, though I always seem to end up using the insert with the smallest wall thickness.

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If drilling out a prop don't hold the prop by hand. I did but the drill 'grabbed'  -like it does with plastic/nylon, the blade I was holding very firmly broke and the other one come round and cut my finger to the bone.

Since then I fix the drill bit in the vice and 'wind' the prop on by hand. I increase the hole size by 0.2 or 0.3mm at a time. OK it takes a bit longer but every one is a good one, not oval or triangular hole as you can easily get. I have a set of sharp drills I keep specifically for prop drilling.

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On 07/05/2023 at 18:45, leccyflyer said:

I prefer the stepped reamers, but find that they don't last very long before losing their edge, so I have three or four of them in my prop box. Have never really got on with the tapered reamer. With APC-E and similar props it's a boon having the insert in the back of the hub, which ensures a nice fit, though I always seem to end up using the insert with the smallest wall thickness.

 

Stepped reamers with a pilot are a great option.

To restore the edge I use one of these https://www.amazon.com.au/EZE-LAP-PAK4-Color-Coded-Diamond/dp/B000UVTDZC/ref=asc_df_B000UVTDZC/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=407150668989&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17093705469081806272&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9072238&hvtargid=pla-596145147273&th=1

Only takes a few strokes as most commercial prop reamers are not made of tool steel.

 

Definitely true the prop centre up with a pilot in a drill press or mill before cutting and check the prop balance after reaming.

 

Which leads to - How many people actually balance their props? (Probably another thread) 😉

 

* Chris *

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4 minutes ago, Christopher Wolfe said:

 

...............................................

Which leads to - How many people actually balance their props? (Probably another thread) 😉

 

I do, including folding props.

 

Dick

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9 hours ago, Bruce Collinson said:

Balance them all.   There’s enough vibration going on without a simply fixed prop imbalance.   + for Dubro balancer.

 

BTC

 

How do you balance them?  Adding paint or sanding the wing tips?  I sometimes do both. 

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31 minutes ago, Geoff S said:

 

How do you balance them?  Adding paint or sanding the wing tips?  I sometimes do both. 

I use Halfords spray clear quick drying varnish.  Never by sanding.  That's for both wood and composite props.  The carbon props I use, Falcons, come balanced as they should for the price that's charged!

Edited by Peter Jenkins
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I abrade the t.e. Of composites and do what Peter does with timber.   For hub imbalance I add thick cyano on the light part of the hub.   Plenty of destructions on the Web, if I recall the Dubro ones are sensible.

Might try spraying composites.

I only ever touch the tips if there is patent asymmetry or particular sharpness

BTC

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