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My next assembly ( The sequel ) ..... The Phoenix Domino EP


toto
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On 24/07/2023 at 18:09, toto said:

To be honest I cant remember now. I had heard that you could run both batteries and should your lipo die, you still had power to operate servos to your control surfaces to allow you to use what height you had to glide your model in if you were lucky enough. I've maybe misread the info I was reading.

 

I'm out at my mentors house at eight tonight and I'm taking a Beatyles 60 amp ESC to replace the Overlander with to see if it makes any difference or if I've done the motor in as well.

 

I have another coup,e of EC5 connections that I can solder to the Beatles ESC so it fits my battery.

 

I'll post up when I get back although it's likely to  e quite late.

 

Cheers

 

Toto

Just thought you might be able to get some redress if you'd followed bad or incorrect instructions that came with the gear, if indeed damage has been done to your ESC.

 

Nosewheel steering................a mixed blessing. Nosewheels take a hell of a beating even in the most experienced hands (Youtube) so trainers do go through the mill -  expect some issues and a bit of fettling needed now and again.  You might want to look into '|Servo Savers' that the model car boys use as they do give their wheels and servos a tough time. A metal geared servo might not go amiss on the rudder/nosewheel.

Edited by Cuban8
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4 hours ago, toto said:

What about a 3 point turn :classic_biggrin:

 

Ok, so ..... I should leave a certain amount of flex. At the moment the push rod shoots / bows about half way in towards the centre of the fuselage. When not being operated, it runs up one side, say, about 5mm from the side, so quite a considerable amount of flex.

 

What is a happy medium in such a case ..... or do I just leave it as it is ? 

 

Toto

A happy medium................

Is a clairvoyant who's just been paid.

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On 15/07/2023 at 18:37, toto said:

Well ..... resistance was futile ....

 

Its on the stand .......

 

P1110049.thumb.JPG.f64b29815c77a50d81518424289b7f3d.JPG

 

and immediately I'd say I have my reservations with this as compared with the Arising Star ......

 

P1110052.thumb.JPG.48587cf53d009c09b8f2e744e23fbbd2.JPG

 

the finish is not the best .... not to much of an issue but when your first assembly is the Arising Star ..... this is a bit of a disappointment.  

 

never mind ..... one we go .....

 

P1110050.thumb.JPG.8a0f4f9066ac2a553b872a392cda38d6.JPG

 

pretty much an open cockpit with plenty of space for servos etc .....

 

P1110051.thumb.JPG.f19183f4f5249e609d4ee70de9563f6e.JPG

 

and the battery compartment.  We'll wait and see where the destructions suggest the receiver and ESC have to go.

 

P1110053.thumb.JPG.d670333c8efa49f381ab2755c7755f07.JPG

 

front end looks ok for the housing of the motor etc. I noted there is another wooden plate with stand off's to get the motor forward enough in the model.

 

P1110054.thumb.JPG.a6b49bf9af80752205330a573897bc66.JPG

 

and the tail end. The destructions look easy enough for this part of the assembly.

 

This is just a little taster of what's to come and as per the Arising Star I'll probably be commencing with the rudder and elevator assembly. So it will be back out with the epoxy. Oh ..... buy the way .... did I tell you that there is no gluing required for this model .....😄 oh yes  and I quote " buy today and fly tomorrow ".

 

Can't wait until tomorrow ..... can you?

 

This model has bolt down wings and I am presuming they will be epoxied together as per the Arising Star. The difference being that they do not share one aileron servo ....... no ....they have splashed out here...... or rather ..... I have.

 

so .... thats me for now .... dinner time beckons and its a chinese tonight.

 

Hopefully I may be back later to start on the tail end. Not 100% sure of that yet.

 

thanks for now

 

toto 

Thats a beautiful looking trainer Toto.  Good luck with that.  

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New ESC arrived this morning. Saves me using the Neatles version right now as that requires bullet connectors to be soldered as well as the EC5.

 

Should be soldered up tonight with a bit of luck.

 

Cheers

 

Toto

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I'm having an absolute disaster here.

 

another brand new Overlander XP2 60A SBEC connected up to this and exactly the same thing ..... sounds like a gatling gun yet my mentors 60Amp ESC worked fine.

 

I need to find answers as I'm not running through any more ESC's until I have some kind of idea whats going on.

 

It may well be that neither of these ESC's are duff. 

 

toto

Edited by toto
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I think I might Ron but my mentors ESC already shows that the motor is fine. I'm reluctant to go throwing good after bad in case I also screw up another motor. 

 

I dont believe that this will be the first time this has been encountered. It's just a matter of someone having been in the same boat and having the solutioI'm trying to find out on the internet how to check the timing between the motor and the ESC to rule that out first. If I have to start throwing other motors and ESC's at it ..... I will just have to but I think I need to try and ripple things out one by one before I run the potential of having a pile of potentially knackered electronics sitting there. .... it could become very expensive.

 

Back to the internet for now ...... let me guess ..... I need to buy some programmer or the like to test this out.

 

Toto  

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It sounds to me that there is a dry joint on one of the bullet connectors on the motor leads. 
 

This would cause the motor to judder violently, with the noise to suit.

 

I would re-solder the connectors on the esc, try again and if the problem persists re-solder the connectors on the motor.

 

If that doesn’t solve it then you need try different combinations of esc and motor to isolate which item is causing the problem.

 

GDB

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Caveman .....

 

you may well be right. My problem is I have soldered the connectors onto the oringinal ESC 3 times in order to check .... and to the point that the leads won't take many more attempts .

 

P1110307.thumb.JPG.92d5f41928ce9400bf066305efebc6f5.JPG

 

and ....

 

P1110308.thumb.JPG.9cac4643391a4f1a99944875450b857e.JPG

 

and the latest 2nd ESC ....

 

P1110306.thumb.JPG.92e183176d6903c37ed6f89b6e43e05e.JPG

 

No reason for the white insulating tape, that could come off.

 

 

 

toto

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Hi Learner .... not as yet .... I thought the second ESC might resolve the problem. I was convinced that connecting the receiver battery had caused the issue but now I'm not sure.

 

I would like to rule out the timing issue ... if nothing else ..... just to rule it out.

 

toto

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Toto, the connectors in your photos above are the battery connectors, I am referring to the 3 connectors which connect to the motor.

 

Also, why do you say that the leads won’t take many more attempts? Why are you shortening them? You only need to heat the joint to melt the solder and pull them apart, then solder them back together and apply heat-shrink tube to insulate them.

 

GDB

 

ps I don’t think that timing is the problem. ESCs work straight out the box in most cases without any need to change anything.

Edited by Caveman
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OK ..... a new combination to try with regards to the ESC ..... no soldering required 

 

P1110309.thumb.JPG.d46c64b410d7a95ee6066cbce7087e21.JPG

 

plus .... this 80A overlander 

 

P1110310.thumb.JPG.6821ce4da987aa63980cc8d38b4a3823.JPG

 

this should rule out the ESC for good ....

 

and leave it to either 

 

timing

motor

 

I'll report back

 

toto

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problem solved ..... runs like a dream.

 

its either my soldering ..... or a timing issue .... at least the motor is ruled out.

 

I need to look at timing next ( although these things are reputed to run fine out of the box ) so I expect it to be .... like Caveman suggests .... a dry joint.

 

Now ..... timing .... do I need some kind of fancy programmer thingy ?

 

toto

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1 hour ago, toto said:

I'm having an absolute disaster here.

 

another brand new Overlander XP2 60A SBEC connected up to this and exactly the same thing ..... sounds like a gatling gun yet my mentors 60Amp ESC worked fine.

 

I need to find answers as I'm not running through any more ESC's until I have some kind of idea whats going on.

 

It may well be that neither of these ESC's are duff. 

 

toto

When you say it sounds like a Gatling Gun are you describing a juddering of the motor? Rather than the grinding that you described initially?

 

As pointed out earlier, the motor juddering could be a symptom of either a poor solder joint or a timing issue.

 

As advised, check those solder joints on the three motor to ESC wires. Check them visually and, if you have a multimeter, check for continuity and high resistance.

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48 minutes ago, toto said:

a new combination to try with regards to the ESC ..... no soldering required 

The two ESC that don't work you soldered the EC5 connector on. The ESC that required no soldering works. Also your mentors ESC worked which you did no soldering on.

 

A pattern emerges.

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On 22/07/2023 at 15:31, toto said:

I know its hard to see but here is my soldered connection.

I just hacked off the EC5 to double check for a bad connection. Its tight enough but difficult to say if the solder connection may be a " dry joint " I'll try another connection.

 

toto 

P1110220.JPG

The black wire soldering looks poor. The bucket should be full of solder.

The red wire looks strange as the insulation is inside the bucket.

 

Steve

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Hi earlybird,

 

mines are similar. they don't look too bad actually.

 

Insort of half filled the bucket with solder , tinned the end of both cables ... applied heat to the bucket and slid the cable end in. took the heat off and let it set.

 

Hi Caveman

 

the difference is with the 80A ESC ( no 3 ) there was no soldering required, it had a ET60 connector on the ESC. I had an XT60 to EC5 convertor lead which I pluged in between the ESC and the Battery. Hooked it up to the system ..... and away it went... ( as per the images in my last thread above ).

 

toto

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