Warbird Replicas FW190 - just the faffing about bits....

[mightypeesh]

Hi folks.

 

 I have not posted a build on here for a long time, so hello again. Seeing Richards superb kit of the 190 and the mass build have pulled me back in 🙂.

 

I am not going to do a blow by blow account as others are already doing a splendid job with that bit. Its well worth reading their blogs as all the tips and tricks they are putting into the builds are really great and make the build really easy, so thank you to all the early starters. So far I have built most of the fuselage, also the wings are done awaiting covering with brown paper - a first for me. I have got some from Sainsburys and done a test so it seems fine for the job and will be a lot cheaper than glass and resin! It's a tribute to Richards kit that I am so far along at this point as I am normally so very slow - only started it on Friday.... So excellent for me. The Flair Legionnaire I am working on is a couple of years in - and I got that as a part built airframe!!!

 

I'm going to try and concentrate on the faffing around that I like to do with a build - that is add scale-ish details and interest to the airframe whilst trying not to add too much weight 🤞. So pilot, bit of cockpit detail, a few bulges here and there and maybe some exhaust stubs... I will see where it takes me with the rest. Also I have an underused airbrush and compressor that I need to play with so that should be interesting, for me at least!

 

The first thing I started with today was the cooling fan for cowling as it looks a bit empty to me without it. I like to use Fusion 360 for 3d modelling, so fired that up today. I also have 3d printers at work (Ultimaker 2+) so it seemed rude not to use them. Here is the result

 

 

 

 

 

I am going to leave a small rim around the inside of the cowl for it to be glued to - which i will paint black, so hopefully wont show too much. I have also included small pads on the back of the fin tips to glue to. Very pleased with the result! 

 

Thats all for now, Good to be back, Cheers Simon

Edited January 2 by mightypeesh

[Graham Bowers]

Like the fan., well done, think I'll emulate 😉 I'm more of a Tinkercad man and have a Prusa.

[Ron Gray]

Very nice Simon, are you going to make the STL available for others or would you rather not?

[RICHARD WILLS]

I'm also a fan of your ... fan, Simon . All these little embellishments of the original prototype are what makes the group build interesting .

It's also nice in that it gives those that follow the choices of adding or skipping the mods . 

I wonder what's coming next ?

Edited January 2 by RICHARD WILLS

[mightypeesh]

Hi Folks, glad you like it. I have just tried attaching the .STL to this post so if you want to print one out you are welcome to. If it does not work then please feel free to PM me and I will send you the file.

 

cheers, Simon

FW FAN 2.stl

[mightypeesh]

Seems to have worked so happy days! 🙂

[Ron Gray]

Much appreciated Simon, thanks. 
 

Interesting number of downloads of it!

Edited January 3 by Ron Gray

[leccyflyer]

Thanks for the fan stl Simon - most helpful. 😎

[Graham Bowers]

Downloaded. Many thanks @mightypeesh Simon

[andrew exton]

nice touch the fan but i dont have a printer how much  if someone was willing to print one ??

andy

[Bucksboy]

I've sent you a PM, mine has just started printing now, fingers crossed.  If mine works, I'll print one for you too.  (I'm new to this 3d printing so it might just create a birds nest😁)

[mightypeesh]

Hi Folks, glad you are finding it useful!

 

I printed mine with a brim to stop it moving, but it does not need any support going on.

 

To make it easier for clean-up I have altered the file today to include its own brim just touching the very tips of the blades to keep it in place. I left work before it finished but it looked good up until then. . If if works ok I will add that file as well tomorrow so you will have the choice 🙂. It is interesting Ron to see the amount of downloads - must show how commonplace 3d printers are becoming, and how useful a tool they are for us makers.

 

Look forwards to seeing all your builds, cheers, Simon

[mightypeesh]

Hi Folks, latest fan with brim printed beautifully so will attach the 'fan with brim' STL below.

 

Also I am using 4000 4s packs which are a bit too big for the battery bay so have made the cut-out indicated by Richard. I have also made a ply doubler to reinforce the area with some lite-ply as it looked a bit weak with the cut out, as well as beefing the motor mount up as it will be quite inaccessible once the ply is wrapped around. Probably does not need it, but once again when I had drilled the holes for the motor it looked a bit weak 🙂.

 

Cheers, Simon

 

 

FW 190 fan with brim.stl

[mightypeesh]

Hi Folks, back at work now so work has slowed on my 190. 🙁

 

I did however have a fiddle with Fusion again to make some suggestion of exhaust stubs at the back of the cowl. I know that they do not seem to protrude on the full size one but I wanted a little interest going on there so just made some a few millimeters in length to fill the gap. The exhausts line up well with the existing vent slots in the former (F2?) but I am going to cut the ply away in the middle to clear all the holes. I read on another post that the ESC etc stay quite cool so am not too worried about some of the vent being covered. 

There seem to be different shaped exhausts when searching online and I could not decide which to do so did a version of all three so take your pick 🙂. If you are worried about cooling I would go for the round one as it has the biggest holes and Dremel the ply back a bit.

 

I weighed them on my scales last night and the weigh in at 0.7g for both sides which is good. Printing wise, use the Fine setting, no brim needed. They only took 12 minutes to print!

 

I fitted the thin ply of the cowl so it extended back a few millimeters of F2 and was flush with the front former so it gives a small lip at the back to give it a small recess. I will attach the STL files at the bottom for all you lovely folks in case you want them to print.

 

Until next time, cheers, Simon

 

fw190 kidney exhaust.stl fw190 lozenge exhaust.stl fw190 round exhaust.stl

[Ron Gray]

Nice job Simon and thanks for sharing. I will resist the temptation of adding them to my ‘beginner’s build’ for the moment and will probably retrofit them when it’s all done.

Edited January 9 by Ron Gray

[leccyflyer]

Thanks Simon - those are great - thank you so much for sharing the files. 

[Graham R]

Thank you Simon for all of your 3D print shares.

 

[Murat Kece 1]

Thank you Simon for all of your 3D print shares. I printed mine..

Edited January 9 by Murat Kece 1

[mightypeesh]

Glad to be of service, cheers! 👍👍👍

[mightypeesh]

Hi Folks - after an initial flurry at Christmas getting the airframe etc built I have now slowed down to my own pace - I will get there, but not in a hurry 🙂.

 

I am using Radiant 4S 4000 packs as they are already in my box, but they do not quite fit in the space provided. I took Richards advice and removed part of one of the formers that he indicated in his excellent build in 'The Big Question'. I also added a battery tray to keep it all in place.

 

 

 

It worked out quite well with the ESC fitted alongside the battery nicely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice and snug!

 

Whilst fitting the servos in the fuse I noticed the balsa each side of the bay were flexing quite a bit, so I added some fillets from scrap to reinforce the area in addition to the bits I had already inserted. Not much weight but seems a lot stronger for my clumsy hands! 

 

 

 

 

I have been working on a pilot and a bit of cockpit detail and will post again soon when I get them sorted.

 

Cheers, Simon

 

 

 

Edited February 4 by mightypeesh

[Lipo Man]

Another print here of your engine fan. It’ll finish the nose off brilliantly! Just waiting for the paint to dry before installing. 

 

[Chris Walby]

23 hours ago, mightypeesh said:

Hi Folks - after an initial flurry at Christmas getting the airframe etc built I have now slowed down to my own pace - I will get there, but not in a hurry 🙂.

 

I am using Radiant 4S 4000 packs as they are already in my box, but they do not quite fit in the space provided. I took Richards advice and removed part of one of the formers that he indicated in his excellent build in 'The Big Question'. I also added a battery tray to keep it all in place.

 

 

 

It worked out quite well with the ESC fitted alongside the battery nicely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice and snug!

 

Whilst fitting the servos in the fuse I noticed the balsa each side of the bay were flexing quite a bit, so I added some fillets from scrap to reinforce the area in addition to the bits I had already inserted. Not much weight but seems a lot stronger for my clumsy hands! 

 

 

 

 

I have been working on a pilot and a bit of cockpit detail and will post again soon when I get them sorted.

 

Cheers, Simon

 

 

 

Hi, if the lipo is that big/heavy will it need to be that far forward? Only wondering as I have a smaller lipo and its further back!

[mightypeesh]

18 hours ago, Lipo Man said:

Another print here of your engine fan

 

Glad the fan is being used!

 

 

16 hours ago, Chris Walby said:

Hi, if the lipo is that big/heavy will it need to be that far forward? Only wondering as I have a smaller lipo and its further back!

I was wondering that. If it is a problem I will just get some slightly smaller packs!

 

Cheers, Simon

[mightypeesh]

Hi Folks. I have been messing around making a pilot using Sculpey (a polymer clay that you can bake in the oven to harden) and a bit of casting again. I used to try to sculpt the faces myself with varying results - some good, some horrific - faces really are not my forte! Recently I have been looking out for old toys with suitable sized heads to use as a starting point, and on this occasion I found a free online download STL from one of the sites that I could 3d print in the right scale to use. I think he is a action hero of some sort but I really could not tell you who!

 

 

 

Because the modelling material I am using is to be baked in the oven I need to turn him into something a little more heat-proof so first I need a mold. 

 

 

A tube of cardboard was put around him and then casting silicone was poured around. In this case it is an odd colour because I only had a silicone designed for high temperatures to cast pewter and white metals into. Still does the job though!

 

   

 

A day later and we have a mold and a copy of our little man.

 

 

He was cast using Polyurethane fast casting resin which is mixed in two parts and sets really quickly. My bottles are way past there best ( it is normally whiter, but whilst it still works I will keep using it.....

 

 

 

The resin is not strictly heat proof, but on experimentation I have found it to be good enough at the low temps that Sculpey needs to harden.

First off I sculpted his headgear which I then baked for 15 minutes. This means I can handle the finished parts without squidging the previous detail. The clay sticks quite well to itself so I tend to build up in layers, baking in between stages. To save clay I use tin foil to make a rough body as a starting point and lay thin sheets of the sculpey over it...

 

 

Then attach head and start dressing him...

 

      

 

He is then baked again so I can then add his harnesses and more detail....

 

 

Finally he gets some goggles and a coat of primer to unify the different surfaces and to see how he looks.

 

  

 

He is quite fragile at this point, especially the thin bits around his head as the resin of the head and the headgear do not bond together like the rest. I  need to be careful not to knock him about until I have finished with him. In the past I have made another silicone mold of the pilot and then used expanding foam to cast them - extremely light and takes paint really well. This time though we have a new 3D scanner at work so I thought I would see if it was any good so I could convert the data into a 3d printable form to see how detailed/heavy he would turn out......

 

 

Not too bad as it happens! 🙂. Not as detailed as a silicone mold would be - softer features than the original but I don't mind that too much. The print only weighs 15 grams too, which I am pleased about. I will have a go at painting him and see what I think. I might still make a mold, but silicone is expensive stuff these days!

 

I think he has a bit of a film-star look about him! 

 

Since printing he has now become known as Piglet due to a misnamed 3d file - it was meant to be 'Pilot'...... 😀

 

Hope you enjoyed the process, will post again soon, Cheers, Simon

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 10 by mightypeesh

[Lipo Man]

3 hours ago, mightypeesh said:

Hi Folks. I have been messing around making a pilot using Sculpey (a polymer clay that you can bake in the oven to harden) and a bit of casting again. I used to try to sculpt the faces myself with varying results - some good, some horrific - faces really are not my forte! Recently I have been looking out for old toys with suitable sized heads to use as a starting point, and on this occasion I found a free online download STL from one of the sites that I could 3d print in the right scale to use. I think he is a action hero of some sort but I really could not tell you who!

 

 

 

Because the modelling material I am using is to be baked in the oven I need to turn him into something a little more heat-proof so first I need a mold. 

 

 

A tube of cardboard was put around him and then casting silicone was poured around. In this case it is an odd colour because I only had a silicone designed for high temperatures to cast pewter and white metals into. Still does the job though!

 

   

 

A day later and we have a mold and a copy of our little man.

 

 

He was cast using Polyurethane fast casting resin which is mixed in two parts and sets really quickly. My bottles are way past there best ( it is normally whiter, but whilst it still works I will keep using it.....

 

 

 

The resin is not strictly heat proof, but on experimentation I have found it to be good enough at the low temps that Sculpey needs to harden.

First off I sculpted his headgear which I then baked for 15 minutes. This means I can handle the finished parts without squidging the previous detail. The clay sticks quite well to itself so I tend to build up in layers, baking in between stages. To save clay I use tin foil to make a rough body as a starting point and lay thin sheets of the sculpey over it...

 

 

Then attach head and start dressing him...

 

      

 

He is then baked again so I can then add his harnesses and more detail....

 

 

Finally he gets some goggles and a coat of primer to unify the different surfaces and to see how he looks.

 

  

 

He is quite fragile at this point, especially the thin bits around his head as the resin of the head and the headgear do not bond together like the rest. I  need to be careful not to knock him about until I have finished with him. In the past I have made another silicone mold of the pilot and then used expanding foam to cast them - extremely light and takes paint really well. This time though we have a new 3D scanner at work so I thought I would see if it was any good so I could convert the data into a 3d printable form to see how detailed/heavy he would turn out......

 

 

Not too bad as it happens! 🙂. Not as detailed as a silicone mold would be - softer features than the original but I don't mind that too much. The print only weighs 15 grams too, which I am pleased about. I will have a go at painting him and see what I think. I might still make a mold, but silicone is expensive stuff these days!

 

I think he has a bit of a film-star look about him! 

 

Since printing he has now become known as Piglet due to a misnamed 3d file - it was meant to be 'Pilot'...... 😀

 

Hope you enjoyed the process, will post again soon, Cheers, Simon

 

 

 

 

 

Wow. That’s amazing craftsmanship! He’s a work of art. I’m going to 3d print a pilot for mine using LW-PLA. I suspect I’ll be at a similar weight to yours, but not so detailed. Congratulations again!