Scruffmeister Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Quite embarrassingly I've never actually had to purchase a glow fuel tank before - I've always used the one included with my ARTF! But now, I need one for my kit built Wot4. Are there any tanks I should avoid, or any that are head and shoulders above the rest? Obviously I need one that fits the Wot4 (around 10oz/300cc), and I'd also like it to at least allow a two line option as I may not bother with the cowl... Edited By Scruffmeister on 09/05/2015 00:01:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Oooh you'll start a tank war I like Kavan and Dubro myself I don't like the round ones they can turn in the model. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Use one from a broken artf. Replace the clunk tube, check for leaks, and away you go. Most artf tanks are, while not being as good as Johns' favourites, serviceable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Failing that a lot of people like the square SLEC tanks. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 It's not the tank per say ,it's the quality of the bung and pipe work in my view. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Radio Active tanks are very good indeed. Their bungs are quite soft. I have used tanks were the bungs are really hard and don't squash and seal properly. Never again. Sullivan is another exellent make, Dubro tanks are OK but I like the neck of the tank to go throught the firewall. You can buy spare bungs for Dubro tanks which is a bonus. I use Radio Active or Sullivan myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marsh Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 With SLEC tanks, a trick is to bell-end the nipples but using a hot pointed braddle, this will give a better fit and won't come off - that's what I do. Going to swopmeets, you usually pick up a tank starting from 10p. Have bought loads in the past, new SLEC ones for around 50p! Got loads of props, engine mounts, spinners and misc bits in stock. Probably won't need to go to a model shop now to buy a tank or prop... Got a few spares, now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffmeister Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 While we're on the subject of tanks, I thought brass tube was a bad idea as it can be corroded by nitro? It looks like the Sullivan tanks come with brass tube, so do you swap it out for some other material? http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/10oz--275ml--Fuel-Tank-SL857_R.html Edited By Scruffmeister on 09/05/2015 09:42:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Sullivan or Dubro for me! BTW, has anyone actually used one of the hideous fuel tanks that come with ARTFs? The ones I'm thinking of have horrible moulded plastic tubes instead of metal pickup pipes and sealing bungs as hard as bullets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Posted by Percy Verance on 09/05/2015 08:51:19: I'd overlooked Sullivan tanks Peter. I'd be happy to use a Sullivan tank certainly. I'm of the opposite school of thought regarding bung siting Peter. I usually build in a small access hatch where my tank is, and I like the bung on the Dubro tank being within the tank bay. It isn't always easy to see or access the tank neck if it's tucked in tight behind an engine. The old Graupner tanks were good too, with those grooves in the side. Made passing a throttle cable much easier. I liked the little brass collar on the neck too, which meant a good tight seal could be had. Edited By Percy Verance on 09/05/2015 08:59:29 Percy, and I had forgtten the excellent Kavan tanks which also have the grooves down the sides. Expensive but excellent and I like the metal collar round the neck, really stops the neck from spreading. I like the bung to go through the firewall. I seal it there with silicone sealant. Makes sure that there is no leakage past into the tank bay. Edited By Peter Miller on 09/05/2015 10:42:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaunie Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 I've used many of the SLEC square ones over the years, never ever had one give trouble of any sort. Shaunie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Posted by Paul Marsh on 09/05/2015 09:32:42: With SLEC tanks, a trick is to bell-end the nipples but using a hot pointed braddle, this will give a better fit and won't come off - that's what I do. Going to swopmeets, you usually pick up a tank starting from 10p. Have bought loads in the past, new SLEC ones for around 50p! Got loads of props, engine mounts, spinners and misc bits in stock. Probably won't need to go to a model shop now to buy a tank or prop... Got a few spares, now... WOW! I thought thst I had good stocks of bits and pieces!!!! Did you all know that Dubro do very nice little barbs tha one can solder onto the brass tubes in tanks to stop the fuel tubes sliding off? They work really well. I don't use the all the time but use them where it would be difficulat to get atube back on to a tube if it came off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Over the years, while never been an ARTF addict, I have never had a problem with the supplied tanks, or sealing them, or with not staying sealed. As I said they are not the best but most are serviceable, and free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 I love and hate SLEC tanks in equal measures! Do check for leaks before fitting as I have had a couple of faulty ones from new which leaked at the cap to body joint. Bunged tanks do need regular checks as the rubber can settle after a year or two and I've seen many fuel soaked models at the field after a lay-off. SLEC don't have this problem of course. Outlet nipples can be a pain and I've even had to resort to a 1/4 UNEF tap on a couple of occasions after careful repeated attempts to start the thread square. A dab of silicone sealant on (the outside of) the small filler/vent tubes to anchor them to the tank body will cure any problems with slippage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 I have used the tanks supplied with the Seagull range of ARTF models , no problems to date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Posted by Scruffmeister on 09/05/2015 09:42:03: While we're on the subject of tanks, I thought brass tube was a bad idea as it can be corroded by nitro? It looks like the Sullivan tanks come with brass tube, so do you swap it out for some other material? **LINK** Edited By Scruffmeister on 09/05/2015 09:42:20 Definitely dump the brass tube .As you say it corrodes and the modern stuff goes very quickly. I replace it with aluminium tubing . some will say it breaks etc but I have never had a problem with it . I also dump the supplied clunk and replace with a sintered filter clunk .They are far better than an inline filter . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Never had any trouble with brass tubes myself. Got some pretty ancient tanks. They may go dark but they still work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Posted by Peter Miller on 10/05/2015 08:06:11: Never had any trouble with brass tubes myself. Got some pretty ancient tanks. They may go dark but they still work. You've hit the nail on the head"Ancient tanks" The older brass tubing supplied years ago was more resistant than the modern stuff. The darkening is caused by the copper being leached out. The new tubing supplied probably comes from China like most things these days and will degrade very quickly becoming very brittle and porous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.. Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 I like to use Du Bro tanks, with a bit of work I like to bend the brass tube into a U shape and fit a small length of silicone tube that nestles onto the bulbous section at the front. This then enables the tank to be drained fully by just tilting the tail up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 I just use the double clunk method. No tipping or tilting. just suck it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 I seem to remember that when I built a Wot4 it needed a slant front tank ( from Sullivan ) to allow the pipes to fit the cutouts ready cut in the bulkhead. This might have changed for newer kits, but worth checking. Normally i would recommend the SLEC square tanks though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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