Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang

[Gordon McConnell]

Re previous post: there are actual the U/C servos to add with there Y lead so  5 separate servo connections. It looks like I will have to use 2 D-sun connectors after all! 

[Trevor]

I'm hoping to add the inner gear doors to mine which would further add to the wire count. So the plan is to use two receivers, one in the wing and one in the fuselage, with just a power connection to be made when the wing is fitted.

[Graham Davies 3]

Gordon, you could use a bigger d-type. There's a 15 pin version that is the same size as the 9-way. Job's a good'un!

[Tim Kearsley]

I've just started building this kit and am now slightly confoosed!  I'm part way through the first half of the wing and the instruction booklet refers to adding a half-rib R6A alongside R6.  Trouble is, I can't find R6A anywhere!  Am I misinterpreting something? 

Thanks. 

[Brian Lambert]

Some talk of R6A here Link. 

[Jonathan S]

Tim

R6A should be on the lazer cut sheet. It is a very shot rib more like a riblet. 

If you see this pic here it shows r6a and r2a lying on the wing 

https://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/46787-warbirds-replicas-p51-build/&do=findComment&comment=861408 

 

[Gordon McConnell]

9 hours ago, Graham Davies 3 said:

Gordon, you could use a bigger d-type. There's a 15 pin version that is the same size as the 9-way. Job's a good'un!

Graham,

Thanks very much for the answer. When I realised that I had 5 servo connections to make through the connector, I had thought of buying a 15-pin connector. However, I had already bought a bag of 9-pin plugs and sockets from RS!

So I will likely use two of the 9-pin D-sub connectors. It adds weight unfortunately.

 

[Graham Davies 3]

3 minutes ago, Gordon McConnell said:

Graham,

Thanks very much for the answer. When I realised that I had 5 servo connections to make through the connector, I had thought of buying a 15-pin connector. However, I had already bought a bag of 9-pin plugs and sockets from RS!

So I will likely use two of the 9-pin D-sub connectors. It adds weight unfortunately.

 

You could 'common' the ground and power lines. You'll only need 7 connections then!

 

[Gordon McConnell]

Combining the power lines was in fact my original question. Is there any downside to combining them all on one wire from the receiver?

3 minutes ago, Graham Davies 3 said:

You could 'common' the ground and power lines. You'll only need 7 connections then!

 

 

[Graham Davies 3]

I can't see why Gordon; they are all common at the receiver end. For good practice, I would keep an earth with each signal and keep 'exposed' signals short to prevent noise. However, that shouldn't be an issue.

[Trevor]

2 hours ago, Jonathan S said:

Tim

R6A should be on the lazer cut sheet. It is a very shot rib more like a riblet. 

In my kit it’s labelled R6F and forms part of the flap, not the aileron. I think this is a change since the prototype and is why the aileron spars are now a little short.

 

 

[Tim Kearsley]

13 hours ago, Trevor said:

 

OK,  yes I do have a riblet labelled R6F. Is this glued to the flap spar then,  1mm to the side of R6?

Many thanks.

[Jonathan S]

All,

I have nearly finished sheeting the wing and getting ready to put the leading edge strip on.  I have a couple of issues it seems to be a bit larger than the gap its supposed to fit in.  Do I sand the sheet flush with the end of the ribs?

Secondly I still  cannot find the rest of the strip for the wings any chance you can post a pic of what I am looking for? 

[Paul Johnson 4]

Guys sorry to have not 'chiped' in, although set to notify me of posts I am getting no notifications.???

Gordon, by grouping the common rails you will need to ensure the wire is heavy enough for the current demand both sides of the connector also the current limit for the pins is good for 5 amps so again it needs to be checked.

Thats one reason I reverse the flap servo. Or you could do what Eric has done and place them both in the same orientation.

 

[Paul Johnson 4]

Some progress 

 

[Jonathan S]

Paul, very nice. Looking great. 

[Gordon McConnell]

Looks terrific Paul. Excellent finish and a good choice of colour scheme. You and Eric are setting the standard!

I have installed the flap servos in the same orientation to avoid having to reverse one of them. I will be using 22AWG wire but not aware of what the current limit is for this gauge. 

[leccyflyer]

She's a beauty Paul - every inch a Cadillac Of The Skies. ?

[Gary Manuel]

On 13/02/2021 at 20:41, Graham Davies 3 said:

You could 'common' the ground and power lines. You'll only need 7 connections then!

 

May I suggest that if you are using a 9 way connector, you may as well use them all? The problem with putting all commons through 1 pin is that if that pin fails, all wing functions fail and a crash is inevitable. I'd suggest 1 common for left aileron plus left flap, 1 common for right aileron plus right flap and one common for the undercarriage servos = 9 total. That way if any one fails, you'll still have control of at least one aileron, which might just allow you to get it down in one piece.

Edited February 15, 2021 by Gary Manuel
Edited for my poor Grandma.

[Gordon McConnell]

Good advice Gary. It is always better to design in some redundancy to prevent a single failure causing a catastrophic event. Thanks.

[Jonathan S]

Just looking for clarity on the attachment of the aileron horn attachment plate.  

The instructions call for it to be attached to the rib but ismit also glued to the top sheet.  My thoughts were it would be better to attach to the bottom sheet and thus make it at the same angle as the rib?

 

[Trevor]

I agree Jonathan. But, since the upper surface is sheeted first, I found it easier to glue the plate to the upper sheeting. I then glued on a block of balsa and sanded it back to the contour of the ribs before adding the lower sheeting. You may like to add scraps of balsa behind the aileron spar at the hinge points too - something I realise that I forgot!

[Jonathan S]

Trevor, thanks for that I might try to use some basla to shim it up to have it at the right angle to match the rib so it will attache to the bottom sheet.

Last question do you attach it flush with the Aileron spar? or should it be furher back towards the trailing edge. ?

[Eric Robson]

1 hour ago, Jonathan S said:

Trevor, thanks for that I might try to use some basla to shim it up to have it at the right angle to match the rib so it will attache to the bottom sheet.

Last question do you attach it flush with the Aileron spar? or should it be furher back towards the trailing edge. ?

Jon , I glued mine in place on the bottom of the aileron spar prior to sheeting the bottom of the aileron, you will get more strength attaching it to the spar and some packing helps. it needs to be firm as you will be putting pressure on when screwing the horn on. If you place a r piece of balsa about 1/2" wide over the ribs and bring the plate up to it then it will be in line for the bottom sheeting .

[Paul Johnson 4]

Hi guys

At last I'm getting notifications...

Anyway for those who were interested on how I detail my models here's a little guide using a marker pen, gel pen and very thin black wash.

Starting with the blank canvas Decals go on first. This is the opposite side as I was sparse with the pictures.

Next I marked out all the detail lines I wanted VERY lightly in pencil followed by drawing over these with the 0.1mm permanent marker then LIGHTLY and intermittently above and in front of the black lines draw the white with the gel pen. It does help that the gel pen seems to like the material to help it NOT make a continuous line!

  

Lastly I used a black wash paint made very heavily thinning some black paint to almost a dirty thinners. Using a piece of paper to define the panel edge and using an almost dry brush create a few subtle random streaks.

 If you use too much black in the wash it tends to be far too heavy and lose it's subtlety.

The last picture was taken in normal daylight to try and show it as it would be outside.

Well that's my take on detailing and hope some find it useful. I'm sure there are many different approaches to this subject and hopefully the more shared the more we all learn.