John Rickett 102 Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 Danny, Keep in mind that the solder will follow the heat - as you warm the area play the heat towards the stub to try and make a stub reach temperature before the header. Things are working in your favour as the stubs have a lower mass than the header, so will heat up sooner, however if you work the heat to ensure that happens, you'll find that when the melting point is reached the solder will run into the joint rather than down the side of the header. Judging how hot things are getting is a bit of a black art but have a go on your test piece. Keep saying to yourself, the solder will follow the heat! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 12, 2021 Author Share Posted December 12, 2021 Thanks John, i will keep the in mind. Been sidetracked with household plumbing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 22, 2021 Author Share Posted December 22, 2021 Well finally found some time to have a play. I have silver soldered horns to piano wire for elevator joiners, but that is about my limit, this joining pipework is new to me. So I cleaned up the metal and assembled the parts. A good friction fit meant it wasn't going to move if I had to add solder rod. First the flux was mixed with water and the area of the joint coated. Then I added a ring of solder as suggested. Heating the two pipes, further away from the joint first worked well and as it came up to temperature gradually worked towards the joint. Once the solder melted it pooled and a little more heat had it running, as John suggested, after the flame. I had to add a little more of the solder as it pooled away from the two ends, but it all ran together nicely once heated. And after a little tidy up, looked great, blocking the two end tubes and blowing in the middle proved it was indeed sealed as well as it looked. I have made a short video using the new GoPro, needless to say I wont be using that again lol Cheers Danny 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 22, 2021 Author Share Posted December 22, 2021 Sorry the image isn't as sharp as normal the GoPro couldn't cope with the close-ups. Cheers Danny 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Here’s a tip. If you don’t want the silver solder to flow past a particular point, lay a strip of Tippex down. The solder will not travel through it and the Tippex resists the torch heat. Not sure about other correction fluids. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 Thanks Cymaz, it flowed just nicely and stayed along the joint. But will keep that tip in mind, cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 apart from one tube that didn't take and I had to redo, the exhausts went well. Need to attach the feed and blank the ends. I think a pressure nipple might also be required. A bit of a clean up and you can see the joint is good, with a nice radius. Need to do the feed pipe next. Cheers Danny 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Nice, neat work Danny. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Neat? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 Tried to attach the side feed and the flexi Reeves pipe. The side pipe went fine, however the Reeves flexi would not stick. A crack appeared on one exhaust, I guess with all the heat, so had to do a quick repair. I think I can probably slit the flexi and use a small jubilee to hold it, as I was going to do with the other end to the engine manifold. Any thoughts? Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 Thanks Alan and Ron, must say I am not a fan of metalwork, prefer wood and at a push fibreglass...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Reeves flexi pipe is probably stainless so will not braze/silver solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 11 minutes ago, alan p said: Reeves flexi pipe is probably stainless so will not braze/silver solder. Yes it certainly looks like stainless. He sells the flux and rod for it, guessed it was suitable. I have seen on the web stainless can be silver soldered. I will clamp it, probably be fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Clark Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 10 minutes ago, alan p said: Reeves flexi pipe is probably stainless so will not braze/silver solder. I am a realtive newcomer to brazing but have no problem with brazing stainless steel for exhausts. You need to make sure that everything is very clean to start with and that you use plenty of good high temperature flux and a high silver content (55%) brazing rod. I get everything from : https://www.cupalloys.co.uk/ Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 The flux and rod was sold to braze this flexible pipe. I agree it has to be clean, but how do you clean the inside of a corrugated tube prey tell? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 7 minutes ago, Danny Fenton said: The flux and rod was sold to braze this flexible pipe. I agree it has to be clean, but how do you clean the inside of a corrugated tube prey tell? Cheers Danny Dip in a chemical ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 Hi John, yes possibly, but what? Anyway I have made some progress, not on my exhaust but on a test piece. Unfortunately it is eating my silver solder rod, and you dont get much With the Reeves kit! But I have proven the rod will silver solder stainless steel. You cannot really clean the inside, so all you can do is cut the flexi in such a way that you leave a flat outer edge. Clean this and then form a bead on the outside onto the brass tube. If anybody has a source of cheap silver solder rods let me know? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 So with the positives from the test piece I decide to go for it! I really didn't want to wreck the work so far, but the best solution was for the flexi to be attached to the body of the exhaust. I could do with advice on how to mount the exhaust, I was thinking of silver soldering a strap between 3 and 4 and strapping to the firewall/tank box. Another strap around the flexi perhaps? Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RottenRow Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 That looks great Danny, well done! As far as mounting goes, a strap or bracket near the back as you suggest but perhaps also another, longer, one closer to the front and fixed to the engine mount side support, as otherwise there would be quite a long bit that is unsupported. Brian. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Is the tank box and firewall fuel proofed?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 1 minute ago, cymaz said: Is the tank box and firewall fuel proofed?? Yep, two coats of Aerokote Epoxy everywhere inside the cowl. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Good, just asking ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Great work as usual Danny, now you have to fit a pressure nipple! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Well done Danny looks good, now you can chill out Merry Christmas? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 1 hour ago, Eric Robson said: Great work as usual Danny, now you have to fit a pressure nipple! Thx ?Yep I am on it ? waiting for some brass stock to blank the ends, think the nipple will go on one of those, whichever is higher. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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