John Tee Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 Not R/c related really. I have a single channel model powered by an Indian (copy) Mills .75 diesel. Mine hasn't got the attached fuel tank. My local model shop hasn't had free flight tanks for years and that is what I need. I have one but it is too small and would probably only supply enough fuel for 1 minute if lucky. I tried to convert one of my Insulin syringes but is even smaller. I could use a small clunk tank but not easy to retro fit as the tank bay is now blocked in and would be too high sitting on the ply engine plate and would require major surgery to alter. I am informed that diesel fuel is not good for silicon tubing. I have some yellow tubing suitable for glow, diesel or petrol There must still be free flight supplies available somewhere but does anyone know where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Sweeting 1 Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 You can get disposable syringes up to 100ml, could these be modified to suit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted August 22, 2021 Author Share Posted August 22, 2021 That sounds a possibiliy Brian tghanks. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Christy Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 Den's Model Supplies do some of the old classic tin tanks that we used for control-line in years gone by. I've used the small team-race tanks for a PAW 80 in an RCmodel, and it works just fine: Fuel tanks Should be something there that suits! -- Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 There's also these (which look like a factory mod of what Brian has suggested): https://www.eifflaender.com/latest-products (at foot of page) It does seem rather odd that the various suppliers of FF kits,coverings, diesel engines etc. seem remarkably deficient when it comes to tanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 If you have a reasonable size soldering iron (nothing special) then it’s pretty easy to make your own. Tradition calls for recycling a Colman’s mustard tin but thin tin plate is available from model shops or model engineering suppliers (e.g. K&S). 2 square U shaped pieces form the basis of an oblong tank but you would be free to make any size/shape that you need. Peter Miller has a great tip when adding the brass pipes - use a suitable sized nail to punch holes and it forms a useful flange/well for the solder. Use flux and lead/tin solder and you’ll find it surprisingly easy to produce a leak-free job. In the best traditions of Blue Peter, here’s one I made (a lot) earlier: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveyP Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 I use a section of copper pipe, 15 or 22mm with a piece of brass plate soldered across each end, I'll see if I can find a photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 6 hours ago, John Tee said: Not R/c related really. I have a single channel model powered by an Indian (copy) Mills .75 diesel. Mine hasn't got the attached fuel tank. My local model shop hasn't had free flight tanks for years and that is what I need. I have one but it is too small and would probably only supply enough fuel for 1 minute if lucky. I tried to convert one of my Insulin syringes but is even smaller. I could use a small clunk tank but not easy to retro fit as the tank bay is now blocked in and would be too high sitting on the ply engine plate and would require major surgery to alter. I am informed that diesel fuel is not good for silicon tubing. I have some yellow tubing suitable for glow, diesel or petrol There must still be free flight supplies available somewhere but does anyone know where? Can not help you, but posting this to correct a factual error Any and all Mills, other than the original, Indian and the Irvine made were 'copies'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted August 22, 2021 Author Share Posted August 22, 2021 Thanks for the pointers Mike and Peter. Did try to make one years ago like that Martin didn't turn out too well but willing to try again. DaveyP as an ex gasman I have plenty of copper pipe in my scrap bin. Hadn't thought of that though may be a bit heavy on a 32 inch w/span model but wouldn't need that big a bit I suppose. Have found a tablet tube which could be adapted if it is diesel proof (plastic). Thank to all for your replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 Dens Model supplies has a range of traditional small tanks. Find on line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher Wolfe Posted August 23, 2021 Share Posted August 23, 2021 Inkjet printer refill bottles are pretty useful for small fuel tanks. Typical sizes are 25ml and 40ml and they even have a useful nozzle in the cap. The ones that I have tested are not affected by diesel or nitromethane glow fuel. Poke a vent hole with a small soldering iron, force (melt) a brass tube into the nozzle from the inside and bend for fuel pick-up. So the pick-up is fixed but then so is your Mills tank so no loss. * Chris * Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted August 23, 2021 Author Share Posted August 23, 2021 thanks again for the last posts. All good suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 23, 2021 Share Posted August 23, 2021 Tin tanks are very easy to make. They can be made to virtually any size or shape. Don't use them for glow fuel as it rust the insides pretty quickly. Thin gauge tin plate can be sourced from biscuit or chocolate tins and is a good excuse to eat more of them ?. Use the inside surface to solder together as it easier to solder the tin side than the steel side when the printing is cleaned off. Cellulose thinner cans are an excellent source if you need bigger sheets.easily cut to size with a pair of scissors. Ordinary flux cored solder works fine but don't try the lead free stuff it useless. Fuel tube to use is black nitrile , neoprene or Tygon yellow tubing or its variants. Nitrile and tygon tubing stay flexible but the neoprene quickly goes hard . Silicon is not suitable as it hies soft and swells up then falls off if used with diesel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted August 23, 2021 Share Posted August 23, 2021 I'll second the use of syringe bodies. My Mills .75 runs for several minutes on a cut-down 5ml syringe. The top can be anything that fits, but has a hole in the centre! The tank is secured to the firewall with a brass strap. Tim 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 24, 2021 Share Posted August 24, 2021 Very interesting to see the exhaust stubs on the Mills. Only ever saw them fitted to the marine version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted August 24, 2021 Share Posted August 24, 2021 Maybe it's a seaplane? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 24, 2021 Share Posted August 24, 2021 2 hours ago, Ron Gray said: Maybe it's a seaplane? ? or a bitsa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 Tim's suggestion would be good as I have 3ml syringes for my insulin. Trouble is the area behind the motor is now filled and covered. May have to do some surgery. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 Interesting to note the tank position in relation to the needle valve as the first tank I tried drained out very quickly throught the needle valve! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 20 hours ago, Engine Doctor said: Very interesting to see the exhaust stubs on the Mills. Only ever saw them fitted to the marine version. Well spotted! Originally the engine was bought as a marine unit. When the owner moved from boats to aircraft, he fitted it with an aero head but kept the stubs. Now in his late 70s, he passed the engine on to me last year (as he's all electric nowadays). I've subsequently fitted an RC throttle from an Indian Mills, and it works just fine! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 Do be careful as those stubs screw into modified exhaust ports cut in the crankcase. They may in a crash, damage the crankcase casting . Unlikely in a vintage rc type model but possible. The standard ex ports are smaller oval shape but the marine conversion required them to be drilled and threaded for the stubs to screw into. Apart from the mod I think the cases are the same . Never actually examined one but someone on here may be able to confirm ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 11 hours ago, Engine Doctor said: Do be careful as those stubs screw into modified exhaust ports cut in the crankcase. They may in a crash, damage the crankcase casting . Unlikely in a vintage rc type model but possible. The standard ex ports are smaller oval shape but the marine conversion required them to be drilled and threaded for the stubs to screw into. Apart from the mod I think the cases are the same . Never actually examined one but someone on here may be able to confirm ? Thanks for the advice, Doc! The stubs were actually quite loose when I received the engine, and seemed to have a tapered thread on their inner ends. If I tightened them fully, then their inner ends appeared to actually touch the piston, which suggests that the liner's ports were also enlarged! I took the precaution of adding a little bit of thread locking compound as I gently tightened them up. The model has had dozens of flights since then, and they're still firm. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 26, 2021 Share Posted August 26, 2021 Rather than touching the piston I think the stubs were actually pressing on the liner and distorting it. Enlarging the ports would effect the running of the engine. Still a great little engine . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 On 23/08/2021 at 21:24, Tim Hooper said: I'll second the use of syringe bodies. My Mills .75 runs for several minutes on a cut-down 5ml syringe. The top can be anything that fits, but has a hole in the centre! The tank is secured to the firewall with a brass strap. Tim @Tim HooperI've bought a small syringe for my latest creation, but where did you get that yellow top? Is it 3d-printed (and if so, got a link to the file?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 (edited) On 06/09/2021 at 13:28, Mike T said: @Tim HooperI've bought a small syringe for my latest creation, but where did you get that yellow top? Is it 3d-printed (and if so, got a link to the file?) Mike, I'm using the top from an old FF fuel tank. However, on a similar set-up on another model (using a cut down 20ml syringe), I just used a tightly fitting washer pressed into place as a top, helped with a bead of CA glue. Works well! Tim Edited September 8, 2021 by Tim Hooper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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