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How tough and durable are SLA printed parts - bellcrank for 3m glider


MikeQ
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Hello

 

playing with a new toy, SLA printer.  Also, about to start building a 3.5m Slingsby Petrel glider with an AllMovingTailplane.

 

Similar to this thread ... 

 

 

I’ve printed up a bellcrank prototype but was wondering just how tough and durable SLA components would be.

 

Its a big model but I doubt the AMT would be subject to huge loads in flight.  Its not and F3F for sure.

 

Any opinions on wether this is totally unadvisable or not an issue?

 

cheers

 

mike

809CABD0-41E7-4B76-BBEB-7DA9DA1B0DFE.jpeg

Edited by MikeQ
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2 hours ago, MikeQ said:

Hello

 

playing with a new toy, SLA printer.  Also, about to start building a 3.5m Slingsby Petrel glider with an AllMovingTailplane.

 

Similar to this thread ... 

 

 

I’ve printed up a bellcrank prototype but was wondering just how tough and durable SLA components would be.

 

Its a big model but I doubt the AMT would be subject to huge loads in flight.  Its not and F3F for sure.

 

Any opinions on wether this is totally unadvisable or not an issue?

 

cheers

 

mike

809CABD0-41E7-4B76-BBEB-7DA9DA1B0DFE.jpeg

Some 3D printed parts I have come across have been easily broken by hand where the layers hadn't fused properly. An easy thing is to try is a destructive test on some parts to see if it withstand the duty you expect it to do.

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Hello

 

I’d have to check my layer height but its much smaller than with my regular PLA printer.  I only just got the SLA dialled in.  Was a bit of a faff and so is all the cleanup etc, what with all the resin and that, but Im pretty impressed with the results.

 

I wouldn’t attempt this with the PLA printer but the SLA component seems way more ‘homogeneous’, tougher and generally better all round.

 

I’ll let you know how 8 get on ... hopefully not with a black bin bag collecting bits off the bottom of the slop 😳

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Hello

 

yeah, theres no arguing with that logic really.  
 

At the same time, we’d still be building models out of bamboo, nails and fish glue if no one tried anything different.  Balsa was very definitely looked down upon as a new fangled fad back in the 20s and 30s by those in the know 😆

 

i printed a beefed up version, at 45 degees with support pads etc and whilst it was pretty strong in many directions failed fairly easy in one ... i guess the one that pried the layers apart at the right angle.

 

So it will be brass tube as per ChrisWs wisdom for me 🤣

 

 

 

 

4AD41A10-25E4-4954-BEDF-04048FAB2DA2.jpeg

2A47F5A1-F409-4276-8EA5-C67BE9A8A51E.jpeg

Edited by MikeQ
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On 05/09/2022 at 18:05, MikeQ said:

Hello

 

yeah, theres no arguing with that logic really.  
 

At the same time, we’d still be building models out of bamboo, nails and fish glue if no one tried anything different.  Balsa was very definitely looked down upon as a new fangled fad back in the 20s and 30s by those in the know 😆

 

i printed a beefed up version, at 45 degees with support pads etc and whilst it was pretty strong in many directions failed fairly easy in one ... i guess the one that pried the layers apart at the right angle.

 

So it will be brass tube as per ChrisWs wisdom for me 🤣

 

 

 

 

4AD41A10-25E4-4954-BEDF-04048FAB2DA2.jpeg

2A47F5A1-F409-4276-8EA5-C67BE9A8A51E.jpeg

Just finished working with some fish glue having never used it before and was amazed to how strong it is,

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  • 2 weeks later...

The other thing that effects printed resin strength is the cure.  Over-curing can make very brittle parts, which can be hard to avoid of course if the item is exposed to UV (the sun) a lot.  This can be mitigated by mixing your own resin cocktail - one with a bit of flex mixed in proportion. 

 

I use my SLA printers for fine detail parts, and definitely wouldn't consider them fit for structural parts like this - I think you've chosen the right path!  I actually think I'd trust a high infill PETG filament printed part way more than a resin part in this case.

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My concern is not so much the strength of printed components, in the line of the bead even PLA is really quite strong, but the overall weakness and brittleness resulting from the thin sections required to keep the overall weight within bounds.

The light weight self foaming filaments are going in the right direction but do as yet have limitations.

Overall most planes end up with a mixture of materials each suited to the required duty and in many cases actually bonded together in such a way that one imparts its properties to the other.

 

IMHO printing a complete plane from a single material even with inserted carbon reinforcement is a long way from the ideal.     

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22 hours ago, Andy Stephenson said:

It would seem sensible to print structural parts with provision to insert carbon reinforcement, this is how some of the fully printed airframes are done.

 

For sure, on the airframes and bigger parts, it's definitely so-able.

For smaller parts like that tailplane bellcrank, I'd be really tempted to try and make a 3d printed compression mould, and mould it from carbon.

 

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  • 9 months later...

Sorry, but as an engineer and user of 3D printer, I would never make such a flight critical part as the elevator bell-crank out of anything which could be suspect.  A local club's existence is potentially in the balance due to an elevator failure and crash into the farmer's garden.  So personally I wouldn't make a bell-crank out of anything less than a sheet of G10 glass or carbon sheet - to ensure its mechanical strength and longevity.  Also all the Micro Mold plastic bell-cranks I have in the spares box will remain in there now, as most of them are 20 to 40 years old and God (if there is one) only knows what the material degradation has been.  Just my 2 pence worth.

John M

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