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Tools required for hobby


TerryC123
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Hi All

Thanks for the suggestions on aircraft for a first build. Now the next is,  What are the basic tools I will need. Was reading up in the forum about tools, then realised it was from 2010!!!! Took notes anyway. Been looking up about Glue's etc, not too worried about heat guns and coverings just now, although I still have some Amazon vouchers to be used up!! Just want some decent tools for learning the build side first!! 

Appreciate your help/advice

Terry

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Tools, not where to start but where to finish!   1. Building board, I use sundeala board glued to a thick piece of ply, but its old and was free, Sundeala board is expensive and so is plywood. Many modellers swear by plasterboard, it's cheap and flat. 2.Pins, lots of them, I use the modelling pins sold by Balsa Cabin, they're very fine and sharp and have a decent sized head which doesn't come off. 3. Steel rule A  decent quality one use as a straight edge and to measure with. Most useful is 500mm long but 150mm 300mm and 1000mm are all useful. 4. Scalpels and blades, There are a number of on line sellers of Swann and Morton  scalpels take your pick just look for a decent price. 5. 5. Spring clamps try Lidl for spring clamps but many other stores, your local pound shop often has them. 6. pencils, fine mechanical pencils are good.

18 minutes ago, TerryC123 said:

Hi All

Thanks for the suggestions on aircraft for a first build. Now the next is,  What are the basic tools I will need. Was reading up in the forum about tools, then realised it was from 2010!!!! Took notes anyway. Been looking up about Glue's etc, not too worried about heat guns and coverings just now, although I still have some Amazon vouchers to be used up!! Just want some decent tools for learning the build side first!! 

Appreciate your help/advice

Terry

 

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Hi Terry,  First, it is really important to get the best quality that you can afford. This makes the whole building process much more enjoyable and safe.

A very good general purpose toolkit could be

A medical scalpel....Swan Morton are excellent. There are two sizes, I mostly use the larger one with No  26 blades, which have a nice sharp point

A stanley knife for heavier cutting jobs

A fine razor saw....Xacto come to mind. Mine has a red handle, and a very fine tooth blade about 120mm long

Clamps.... You cant have too many clamps. The small ones from any tool store are a good starting point, as are clothes pegs

A steel straight edge, and or a 300mm steel rule

A cutting mat....A3 is a good size

A metal angle square....There are really super tiny ones from specialised model shops

If you can afford it, an electric drill such as Dremel is oh so useful. I'd avoid the cheap ones, you get what you pay for

 

Of course, I could go on and on, but that lot should get you going

 

ernie

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As well as the above, I've found a jig for building is pretty useful - SLEC do a good one.  Mine's on some cheap MDF that sits on my 'proper' building board when in use.  

 

I've used my vice more times than I can think of.  Not as good as a wire bender for.... bending wire.... but useful.

 

Decent allen keys and screwdrivers are pretty essential.

 

Spanners for things like prop nuts, engine mounts ......

 

Also find needle files useful for easing hole/lugs in, for example, formers.

 

It soon mounts up!  Does depend on what you're building though as some things won't necessarily be needed for 'this' project.

 

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I agree with everyone - except Dale!  I don't use a Dremel or magnets.  

Get a Swann Morton Retractaway scalpel with 10A blades.   As the name implies the blade retracts for safety, not a lot dearer than the standard scalpel.  They are often sold in art shops- shop around prices vary a lot but get genuine Swann Morton as blades will always be available.

Fuselage jig is handy - SLEC is good but you can make your own.

A jewellers saw ( piercing saw ) is heasier to use than a hand fretsaw and takes fretsaw blades.  Axminster sell them.

One of the handiest but unknown tools is a Pick Up Tool or Pearl Catcher - a tool with 3 wire prongs that retract and will hold tiny screws like servo screws.  Proops sell them- it's a jewellers tool.

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Telescoping magnet, invaluable for retrieving small bits which slip.   Tweezers.   Decent scissors and a fine pair as well as 6”.   Junior hacksaw.   Cordless drill and sensible bits (a set of Dormer 1-6mm in 0.1 mm steps is expensive and very good value).   Small dental pick.   Dental mirror for looking inside structures.   Assorted pliers; parallel jaw are good, needle nose and chunky.   Mole wrench.   Never throw toothbrushes away.   Dial calliper.   Z bend pliers.   Multi meter.   Spirit level.   Good side cutters (you can get away with cheap pliers but not sidecuters).

 

The list is endless but all of the above are in regular use as well as the obvious blades, abrasives, clamps etc noted above.

 

it remains the case that you get what you pay for and with the very basics you will buy cheap only to buy twice.   Many of the above are readily available cheaply and are perfectly adequate, tweezers, artery forceps, magnets, pliers, pick and mirror etc but the core tools, blades, spanners /sockets and particularly screwdrivers, will punish false economy.

 

Ian Shaw at Modelfixings stocks good tools at sensible prices, Proxxon sets spring to mind.   Wera for screwdrivers and hex/Allen keys.

 

B

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I don't know how much all the recommended tools would cost but-----

----the great thing about aeromodelling is that you really only need just a few tools to get started.   With just the usual car or household tools plus a scalpel, steel rule, Stanley type knife,  pins , clips and some sanding blocks you can make lots of models.  So don't let lack of tools put you off.

 

But of course we all act as though   " he who dies with the most tools wins!"

 

Edited by kc
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Every one of the above assumes working in balsa, working in depron is both easier and cheaper, also usually quicker too. A flat section wing takes 15 minutes or less.

 Less tools . straightedge, felt tip pen, craft knife, hot glue gun are the basics.  

A building jig does help keep fuselages straight though, or just stick to profile models

Look online for  ideas

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2 hours ago, kc said:

I agree with everyone - except Dale!  I don't use a Dremel or magnets.  

Get a Swann Morton Retractaway scalpel with 10A blades.   As the name implies the blade retracts for safety, not a lot dearer than the standard scalpel.  They are often sold in art shops- shop around prices vary a lot but get genuine Swann Morton as blades will always be available.

Fuselage jig is handy - SLEC is good but you can make your own.

A jewellers saw ( piercing saw ) is heasier to use than a hand fretsaw and takes fretsaw blades.  Axminster sell them.

One of the handiest but unknown tools is a Pick Up Tool or Pearl Catcher - a tool with 3 wire prongs that retract and will hold tiny screws like servo screws.  Proops sell them- it's a jewellers tool.

Think it was one of your early early topics that I was ready about the jig. what was it 2010 or 2013!!! How long you been going😁

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1 hour ago, kc said:

I don't know how much all the recommended tools would cost but-----

----the great thing about aeromodelling is that you really only need just a few tools to get started.   With just the usual car or household tools plus a scalpel, steel rule, Stanley type knife,  pins , clips and some sanding blocks you can make lots of models.  So don't let lack of tools put you off.

 

But of course we all act as though   " he who dies with the most tools wins!"

 

Just been adding it up (no not cash). already got some of the tools, just bought 20 mini clamps. Bit confused about the ''building board''? got my bench worked out! You need a building board as well?

   

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Building board can be a piece of plasterboard about 4ft by 2ft plus a few smaller pieces for tailplane.

 

I suggest buying a Pozidrive screwdriver in size 0 ( zero ) which is handy to fit servo screws etc.   Whether these servo screws are really Posidrive or Phillips is not certain but Posidrive 0 works and maybe PH 0 as sold by Stanley will fit well enough.

 

Years ago I posted Tools You Can Make Yourself  and those item I made are still in use.   I really like my modified 'Bench Hook' which is better than the traditional carpenters version in my view.    Fuselage jig is handy and the taped together hacksaw blades to cut slots works well.

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8 minutes ago, kc said:

Building board can be a piece of plasterboard about 4ft by 2ft plus a few smaller pieces for tailplane.

 

I suggest buying a Pozidrive screwdriver in size 0 ( zero ) which is handy to fit servo screws etc.   Whether these servo screws are really Posidrive or Phillips is not certain but Posidrive 0 works and maybe PH 0 as sold by Stanley will fit well enough.

 

Years ago I posted Tools You Can Make Yourself  and those item I made are still in use.   I really like my modified 'Bench Hook' which is better than the traditional carpenters version in my view.    Fuselage jig is handy and the taped together hacksaw blades to cut slots works well.

Servo screws are often peculiar to Japanese , some  larger ones  have J something  stamped on the head? Nothing else fits properly except a matching Japanese driver of the correct size.

Edited by john davidson 1
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8 minutes ago, kc said:

Building board can be a piece of plasterboard about 4ft by 2ft plus a few smaller pieces for tailplane.

 

I suggest buying a Pozidrive screwdriver in size 0 ( zero ) which is handy to fit servo screws etc.   Whether these servo screws are really Posidrive or Phillips is not certain but Posidrive 0 works and maybe PH 0 as sold by Stanley will fit well enough.

 

Years ago I posted Tools You Can Make Yourself  and those item I made are still in use.   I really like my modified 'Bench Hook' which is better than the traditional carpenters version in my view.    Fuselage jig is handy and the taped together hacksaw blades to cut slots works well.

read that about the hacksaw blades. done it already, even filed the pimples off!!!

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A set of JIS is useful but, allegedly, JIS have recently standardised so that a PH will fit.   I think a Posi will not fit properly.   Laser sell a set of 32 bits including PH1 which is a good fit in a random Savox 0255 which is to hand, for about a fiver.    The other 30 will come in handy for something.   Not Wera but ok for servos.

B

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