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The Big Question ?


RICHARD WILLS

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Both upper fuselage sides are on so its just the rear spine to go on . In the detail shot you can see that I added another long triangle cut from the fuselage side offcuts. 

Its not essential , but it give the upper fuselage sides a step to glue up against . 

So to clarify , you cut a piece of sheet balsa stepped in by 2mm on either side . then glue the spine to the formers and sides with the additional sheet piece inside the rear deck . 

The soft block that runs along the underside of the cowl area is to take the hit when belly flopping , so it needs to butt up against the plastic cowl ring . You will need to sand it slightly so that it doesnt interfere with the ply cowl skin . 

The next bit is quite satisfying . You clamp the thin ply skin of the cowl to one of the 5mm square balsa strips at 11oclock . Then with plenty of Pva glue on the areas that touch , wrap the skin around then clamp on the other side . 

The skin doesnt fight back much . But you can cheat a bit by heating the skin first with a heat gun and while hot roll it into shape off the model . As it cools it will hold some of that curve . 

 

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Edited by RICHARD WILLS
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3 hours ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

Well David from 1995 to 2016 all of my designs had foam veneer wings . The Spitfire even started with foam veneer . So its only relatively recently that laser cut wooden built up wings have come into favour . Personally , I am happy with either . The foam wings dont have that lovely click together thing going on , but they are very accurate and extremely tough . Horses for courses really . For regular belly flops , my money would be on foam veneer !

I think the decider is often , how much structure needs to be cut into the foam wings . If its retracts , flaps and lots of cables then you might as well go built up . 

If its a Bomber though , all that rubbish goes in a nacelle , so its foam all the way . 

 

I think the point I was trying to make/understand was that this thread started with you trying to find a way to produce a kit that comes in cheaper to help get more people to build, possibly making extensive use of materials other than balsa and ply. Whether you have achieved that aim is what I am trying to establish. The accuracy of the formers and fuselage so far look just amazing, so I'd be amazed if you've managed to make it a "budget" kit!?

 

Love your work!

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I'm glad you mentioned that Eric . On my prototype its more 10;30am (coffee and shortbread ) . But I might reduce your versions battery hatch to 11 am which is usually a banana for me . Of course that can be combined with another shortbread biscuit , making a sort of "mix in the mouth Banofee" . 

That incidently also work with strawberries . You simply start on a decent size Shortbread biscuit (M and S) then pop a strawberry in with it . Instant Strawberry short cake . 

I had to stop this kind of "express eating " when my wife caught me drinking straight from the kettle with a  mouthful of gravy granules and some smash powder . The aim being instant Cottage Pie. Long after I'm gone , I will probably be credited with breakthrough . Bit like Picasso . Famous too late . 

Long story short , I'm not allowed in the kitchen . 

 

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Anyway , I think you will all agree (I can here you all mumbling "yes Richard, very good" ) , its starting look very much like the little Focker we all love . 

As mentioned in the previous rambling , I may reduce the battery access hatch on your version ,simply to make the hatch edges coincide with the full size cowls panel lines . 

The gundeck and canopy are just perched on and the Fin is still removeable at this stage . 

Regarding the second picture . I just wanted to explain , that Warbirds Replicas now has a new company slogan . It might be slightly derogatory , and please dont shoot the messenger as remember I'm only the moderately acceptable face at front of house . 

"Designed By Muppets and flown by Idiots . "

 

Well , if that doesn't increase sales figures then I don't know what will . 

 

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I totally resent the "Designed By Muppets and flown by Idiots . " slogan, personally I would say my flying technique has a far greater element of muppetry in it!

 

How about "designed by Puppets and flown by Muppets" plus nice to see the boys are back with Sweep measuring out an element of control!  

 

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A bit of tidying up of the nose before going back to the wings . 

As I said , I will increase the size of the "cowl ply skin wrap " on the final kit version in order to reduce the removable panel size in order to match scale panel lines . 

I have just added 18mm of ply skin each side to replicate your version . The actual hatch with gun troughs will be made as a 3D printed item for the kit version , but I haven't got time to wait for that , so for mine I made one out of wood . 

The cowl support ring is added as shown here . Its sole purpose it to provide a lip for the front cowl mould to locate securely . 

Overall I'm pleased with how it went together so quickly . Only one alteration to be made as mentioned above . 

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Richard,

My spitfire is over 50% complete, so planning the next build, so this is great timing. The Spit is a much faster build than the p51, which I put down to confidence and maybe a more tested kit.  

 

Not sure which to choose.  But both look great options..   Will watch for the sign up sheet. 

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9 hours ago, Jonathan S said:

Richard,

My spitfire is over 50% complete, so planning the next build, so this is great timing. The Spit is a much faster build than the p51, which I put down to confidence and maybe a more tested kit.  

 

Not sure which to choose.  But both look great options..   Will watch for the sign up sheet. 

Good points Jonathan . These two builds are much faster and a little more light hearted . Obviously they will take retracts but for now the simple hand launch version with a two blade prop makes them very robust and practical all weather models . 

Keep in mind that the wing loading is way less than a traditional fun fighter so launching is not a challenge . 

Regarding choice . I am pushing myself along on the 190 build as I am aware that the Tempest fans are waiting patiently . 

For me , choice sometimes comes down to paintwork . For example if you intend to finish the Spitfire first , you may not want to do another British Scheme . 

I will end up with one of each ! So I dont really have a favourite . 

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Ok so back to the wing now . I am using servo boxes that we have used before on the Bf110 . They are simple to make up and replace any strength removed when cutting out the foam , by replacing with light ply wooden "walls" which act like little braces . Makes sense when you think about it . 

Think about where the cable will enter the servo box as you will need to put a hole there . 

I positioned my servo box well back so that if i do fancy putting retracts in at a later date , I have plenty of room . 

I also cut a channel for the leads . This is easiest done , by getting a sheet of 1/4" Sheet or 3/8" , holding edge on , you strike two sharp lines , one either side . 

You then know that the wood will fit in the hole .  Simply cut a 4mm slice off the same sheet and glue it in the hole . 

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Now join the wings . I used 5min epoxy and put some pins in to hang my elastic bands on . While its drying I leave it on one wingtip with the wing vertical . The Dihedral is precut on this model so no mucking about !

Less chance of the joint opening up .

Wing dowel and single bolt next . I will put a glass cloth wrap round the joint later on .

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Edited by RICHARD WILLS
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Front wing dowel installed and single bolt and mount plate attached . All very quick and simple . I always have just one bolt . Sounds risky but in practice only a bad cartwheel would rip it out . Anyway , apart from in a bunt or prolonged inverted flight (which looks weird), all of the loads push the wing against the wing seat , making the wing bolt irrelevant . 

Yes , that is a number plate bolt ! Ever tried them ? Very good in fact . 

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So what does it all look like now ? Well. I'd say pretty good .  

The only detail yet to add is the teardrop shaped bulges on the cowl . I call them "Hamster Cheeks " . 😁

Ive got to make a plug for those so that you all get a vac formed pair . 

So Guys . What do you think ? Its pretty close to scale so once its in "uniform " it will look totally convincing . 

I was looking at Dave Bs Cambrian Fw190 long nose on a parallel thread here on the forum and he made a lovely job of the finish . Gives us something to aim for . 

 

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Looking very good Richard,

 

I'm planning on covering my one with light weight glass cloth and eze kote resin,

 

I have only done this once before on a plane, as for  the wings, would it be better to use brown paper and pva as I've read about veneer wings warping with eze kote - or is there a method to seal the veneer first?

Allowing the ezekote resin to be used after

 

Dan

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Yes Graham , I will put  some launching grips underneath the wings . I will put a picture up when I do it . 

Dan , I always just PVA and brown paper . I have heard people having the veneer pucker up when water based resin is applied but I dont have any experience of it . 

Maybe some of the others can help ?

As far as weight is concerned , I would pretty much guarantee that if you put in some retracts and the usual 4s 3300 pack it would weigh 5.75lb (nice imperial /metric mix) 

But as we wont have retracts or wheels , you could lose roughly a pound . So less than 5lb . With the usual 54" span , that makes the wing loading light enough to be very friendly . 

I get to see a sweeping cross section of covering my designs . So without bias I would come to this conclusion , in a nutshell .

Feel free to shoot me down . 

Brown paper and PVA is as tough and cheap as it gets . You dont need much skill and unlike two pack finishes , there is no time constraint . 

On the other hand , there are a few people out there who are excellent at glass cloth and end up with a great finish and similar light weight to option one . 

However , there are also people out there (I would be one ) who look at the quality glassers in awe and think "That must give the best result , the result of a professional "

what would then happen is , I get all sticky and in a bit of panic and lastly , end up with a model a little on the porky side . 

Just an observation of people building my models , which of course , I know what average looks like . 

My wife says the same ...........

 

 

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