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Warbirds Replicas FW190 2023 version - a VLOG of the build


Ron Gray
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Ron,

Fantastic videos - really loving the videos. 

Thanks for the hint on the ESC amps. I have one on its way this week. 

 

Where did you get your 3d printed wing shapers from. I was looking at thingyverse but could not find one.  

Could you share either a STL or just a couple of photos / dimensions so I can re-create them in Fusion. 

 

Thanks 
Jon

 

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HI Ron

Sorry if you have already mentioned this, what is the exact type of Gorilla glue you are using to join the foam wings.?

I have always been a traditional epoxy resin and aliphatic glues user.

What other building uses are the Gorilla glues good for ? I see there is a different bottle on your bench.

Regards

               Dave

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Hi Dave

 

I use 3 types of Gorilla glue - Brown (expanding/foaming), Clear and White (PVA):

 

Brown - when bonding to foam (or foam to foam like wing halves) or where a joint needs a bit of filling (!!) and also sometimes for control surfaces hinges (Robarts)

Clear - Depron to Depron, canopies, plastic to plastic, plastic to wood. It dries crystal clear but be warned it is very difficult to paint!

White - wood to wood and for me it is the best PVA I've used!

Edited by Ron Gray
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On my past models I have found a slight tendency for the brown paper to lift and curl away from the cut edges around the servo bay for example. Anywhere where there isn't the overlap.  I now iron a narrow strip of scrap solartex around the edges of the openings and try to wrap it around inside.    The peel back has often not shown itself for a year or so, I guess it could be that the edges are more vulnerable to absorbing damp from the atmosphere?

 

 

 

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That is why the sealer is such an important part of the brown paper covering procedure. Using cellulose dope would be a good sealer, especially around those raw edges, as would Clearcoat (my preferred) but am conscious that newbies won't necessarily have these to hand, so a coat of PVA is what I will be using for this build.

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3 hours ago, Ron Gray said:

That is why the sealer is such an important part of the brown paper covering procedure. Using cellulose dope would be a good sealer, especially around those raw edges, as would Clearcoat (my preferred) but am conscious that newbies won't necessarily have these to hand, so a coat of PVA is what I will be using for this build.

Ron, sorry to be such a pain but...... I have looked up 'Clearcote' but every thing from water based Acrylic to 2pack epoxy comes up. I am assuming that you were being specific in your reference to 'Clearcote', could you perhaps point to what sort of coating you are refering to. Sorry about this. If its just as a sealer what about water based acrylic?.

Bas

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21 minutes ago, Basil said:

Ron, sorry to be such a pain but...... I have looked up 'Clearcote' but every thing from water based Acrylic to 2pack epoxy comes up. I am assuming that you were being specific in your reference to 'Clearcote', could you perhaps point to what sort of coating you are refering to. Sorry about this. If its just as a sealer what about water based acrylic?.

Bas

Might have been better to look for Clearcoat, as in Ron's post.

 

https://solarfilm.co.uk/products/solarlac-clearcoat-thinner-collection-only

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Thanks Brian you beat me to it!

 

Note that, as I said above, I am not going to be using Clearcoat on this build as most beginners will not have access to it and it is quite difficult to get hold of (collection only). Cellulose dope would also be a great choice but  it has to be used in a well ventilated space (I know that back in the day we didn’t bother about that!) so I’ve ruled that out too. So it boils down to water based products, floor varnish, EzeKote, PVA or acrylic primer/undercoat all of which are easy to get hold of and are easy to apply albeit the primer/undercoat still needs a well ventilated space. 

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As you say Ron . Keep it simple , use PVA . If any "flappy bits" develop , get some pva under it then iron it down . 

When you think about it , Solarfilm is just a covering material , coated with a heat reacting glue .

Brown paper coated with PVA is the same . The main difference is that you have to create that "composite " yourself . However that does mean you can fix it if it stops working by adding more adhesive . 

You can also spend the money you've saved on crisps and beer .....

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Yes, PVA for the flappy bits and at the moment I’m coming down in favour of the primer/undercoat as the sealer. I’m planning on doing the sealer on Sunday as we have family around tomorrow so I won’t be allowed out to play and I can’t leave Gary (Elmo) on his own with an aerosol can!

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