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Newbie Help - Easy Pigeon


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1 hour ago, Hoochykins said:

Around this area there are huge fields and a friend of mine does shotgun shooting on farmers land with their permission so that's also a possibility.

Don't forget, even on private land, you need to comply with the regulations - see the BMFA page. Also, insurance is sensible. Not for you, but it would cover the shooters Range Rovers if you hit one. Possibly.

 

You are more likely to succeed if you go down the club route but it's your choice of course.

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1 hour ago, Hoochykins said:

I also purchased a brushed ESC

Surely you would have bought a brushless ESC for that motor?

You will need a prop adaptor that goes on the shaft not the type shown which bolts on the other end.

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Frankly I don't understand why you would spend  money buying a brushed ESC if you have bought a brushless ESC and motor!   Having items that can be interchanged between models is much handier when eliminating problems or to repair after a crash.  Or to suit follow on models.   I would stick to brushless.   Brushed motors were always marginal at best.  

 

 

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15 minutes ago, kc said:

Frankly I don't understand why you would spend  money buying a brushed ESC if you have bought a brushless ESC and motor!   Having items that can be interchanged between models is much handier when eliminating problems or to repair after a crash.  Or to suit follow on models.   I would stick to brushless.   Brushed motors were always marginal at best.  

 

 

A suitable brushed motor, essentially the motor that is already in the Easy Pigeon is perfect adequate for the task pf carrying such an electric glider to height. Coupled with a 2s1p Lipo and suitable prop it should easily deliver sufficient power to allow climb out to a few hundred feet to search for thermals. It's an Easy Pigeon, not a hotliner.

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A  2S Lipo might suit the brushed motor and 8 by 4.5 prop,  while the brushless motor ordered would require a 9 by 4.7 if used on 2S .   The 2S lipo and brushed ESC might just be OK if the brushed motor is in good order but would be less use in future - buying a 3S and brushless ESC would be safer now & more useful for future models.

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We have a chap who brings along a Flyng Styro 'Chubby Lady' electric model to our club's summer evening flying sessions.  It has a geared 280 brushed motor, flies remarkably well and has been doing so for many years.  Whilst I understand the recommendations to move to brushless power here, 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'.  By changing a model around a lot, and particularly with a newcomer doing it, there is the danger of inadvertently adding weaknesses in the structure and altering thrust lines.  The Easy pigeon was a good flier as it was designed.  For sure, once Hoochykins has some experience with flying, a brushless set up should improve performance and duration, however at this stage, a consistent performer which stays within the pilot's capabilities and remains in one piece is the primary requirement.

Edited by Robin Colbourne
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Just to clear up what my plans are and what I have bought see below:

 

Easy Pigeon 1.7m

Motor2826/18 1000KV TORNADO THUMPER V3 - BRUSHLESS OUTRUNNER RC MOTOR

Battery2200MAH 11.1V 3S 35C SUPERSPORT PRO LIPO BATTERY (EC3 CONNECTOR)

ESCXP2 30A BRUSHLESS RTF SPEED CONTROLLER

Servosdiymore 2PCS MG996R Metal Gear High Speed Torque Digital Servo Motor for RC Helicopter Airplane Car Boat Robot controls

 

Easy Pigeon 1.8m

 

Motor: Standard 600 Can motor

Battery: Will use either or buy another if required

ESCWANGCL 320A Brushed ESC Brushed Motor Electric Speed Controller with T Plug BEC Output 5.6V/2A for Tamiya RC Car Monster Truck Crawler Truck RC Boat

Servos: Reuse the old Sanwa servos or replace with above (diymore)

 

Vintage Model Company Balsa Basics Cub

 

MotorEmax MT2213 935kv Brushless Motor

Battery1600mAh 11.1V 3S 35C Supersport Pro LiPo Battery

ESCBLHeli Series 20A ESC

ServosServo SG90 Servomotor Metal Geared Motor Kit for ALL kind RC Toys include Flugzeug Robot Arm Hand Boat Mini Micro Servo Modellbau (3pcs)

 

Other bits:

Overlander e455 50W Balance Charger

3.5MM GOLD CONNECTORS (10 PAIRS)

TORNADO THUMPER C28 ACCESSORY KIT

JR TYPE EXTENSION WIRE - 175MM (12PC)

Roket Hot Cyano Adhesive

Roket Max 20g

Easy Sand Wood Glue

Emax 1045 Propellers (CCW and CW)

High Strength Rubber Wing Bands (4x Pack)

 

 

Right guys how many mistakes have I made and what prop size will I need for the Brushless EP? The thinking behind this was I had the choice of running one of the EP's using the old Brushless motor and one with the brushless. As I will have two complete EP kits (and one without wings - 25 year old mistake) I thought it would be a bit of a waste to have all of these can motors with no ESC which is why I decided to buy one.

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     I thought about running my Pigeon with the original motor and lipo, thing was for balance without added lead the batt [2200 3s] would have to be back down the fuselage at about wing trailing edge, so heavy was the original motor [ issues then with over long power cables] option B add lead at tail.

  Lighter brushless motor in the nose and 2200 batt under cockpit [ easy to change] no added lead.  Lightness adds performance.  

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Two of the ESC have only 2 amp BEC.   This might be enough for just 2 servos  in a glider ( modern analogue servos ) but whether 2 amp is enough for those digital servos is a question for others to answer.   Same question for the old Sanwa servos.   Normally I look for an ESC with 5amp BEC so that it can be used in my models using 4 or 5 servos.    Having an ESC with only 2 amp BEC will limit future models or might go unnoticed until it causes an unexplained crash when used with 4 servos.   Note that the specifications are online now but they might disappear when new items are stocked in a few weeks or months so save the spec now.

 

It is very convenient to have the same type of connectors on all ones equip - maybe all Deans or all XT60 on Lipo and all  3mm or all 3.5mm on motors - so one can interchange items easily.   Same as ones flying pals makes it possible to borrow or lend a Lipo when needed.   That's why we suggest looking at clubs first and getting an idea what everyone uses before buying.   Too late of course but worth bearing in mind for future purchases.   It's particularly handy to avoid soldering new connectors on a Lipo for safety reasons ( avoiding a short! ) so buying extra Lipos with the right connector already is handy.  

Same with servos - having all similar means interchangeable easily if all the holes line up and height the same  also all the splines on horns are same.  Of course sometimes you need small servos, sometimes standard size but just two sizes in stock is easier. 

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Looking at the spec for the brushed ESC it seems to say 320 amps and 100 RPM and 160 amps in reverse.   Obviously for vehicles so whether it can be used in a plane is the question now.......  

 

If nobody here can confirm this would work in a plane then my suggestion is to try to return for a refund whilst you still can. 

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None of it was very expensive so happy to swap out bits if I need to. I did go for all Deans connectors, I must have copied the wrong URL.

 

The brushed ESC was one I just chucked in the basket so if it's no good then that's fine. I just wanted to test the old motors run so can always get a decent one if need be.

 

The ESC's are only going to be running 2 servos and maybe 3 if I get the 4 channel wings for the cub. For the price and amount of models I will have I'm thinking I will leave the servos, motor and ESC in the planes and but specific kit for any other models I choose.

 

Is the brushless motor for the EP going to be alright? From what I have read and your feedback it looks like it should be fine, might need the full throttle cutting back a bit and maybe a smaller prop?

Edited by Hoochykins
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33 minutes ago, kc said:

Looking at the spec for the brushed ESC it seems to say 320 amps and 100 RPM and 160 amps in reverse.   Obviously for vehicles so whether it can be used in a plane is the question now.......  

 

If nobody here can confirm this would work in a plane then my suggestion is to try to return for a refund whilst you still can. 

Interesting spec. now I have looked at it.

A claimed 320 amps continuous, and weighs 10gm 😁

 

Dick

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On 23/02/2024 at 11:11, Hoochykins said:

 

That is some good info, if you have photos it would help me a lot but don't go out of your way to take them!

 

 

 

 

Around this area there are huge fields and a friend of mine does shotgun shooting on farmers land with their permission so that's also a possibility.

 

Just a word of warning if your proposed flying site is near Caddington/Slip End, as the stub of the Luton Airport no fly zone extends to the western side of the M1 in that area.

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2 minutes ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said:

Just a word of warning if your proposed flying site is near Caddington/Slip End, as the stub of the Luton Airport no fly zone extends to the western side of the M1 in that area.

 

All good, I'm aware of the no fly zones around here from my drone and it's quite a distance away from anywhere I propse on flying.

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Covering.

 

I'm getting the hang of it now...after I shrunk it too much and pulled it away from the middle ribs then attempt two I shrunk the underside without applying the top film at the same time to avoid it warping (I knew I had to do this but I didn't and I don't know why).

 

So now I need another roll of covering. Still it's a learning process 😁

 

Not totally happy with the ends on the completed side so might redo that but other than that I'm chuffed.

IMG20240301203727.jpg

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I'm happy with it for a first time build. I'll stick a strip up the middle and cut out that uneven edge in the middle also.

 

Issue now is it looks like I'm going to struggle to get more film. It's Kaven film and it looks like the only place that sells it here has no stock of the normal yellow. You guys heard of this film before and (I know it's a long shot) know any film that matches it?

IMG20240227235223.jpg

IMG20240227235219.jpg

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