Jump to content

Warbirds Replicas BF110


RICHARD WILLS

Recommended Posts

Advert


2 hours ago, Declan said:

What paints are you using Eric?

Hi Declan, 

The plastic parts are sprayed with grey plastic primer aerosol the black and white is sprayed with matt undercoat, the yellow is Ford signal yellow aerosol gloss which will have a matt varnish over it to take off the shine. The greens are hand painted with BandQ valspar match pots as is the blue underneath. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Eric Robson said:

The greens are hand painted with BandQ valspar match pots as is the blue underneath. 

 The markings look really good.  I think I'm going to give those paints a go when I get there, some time off though.  I do have a cheap fence paint sprayer I'm also going to experiment with.  

I see you've painted the teeth over or are the pictures out of order?  I've found most masking tapes for scale modellers are good.  They've worked very well when I've assembled plastic kits.  I'm also going to try a cricut machine to make the masks for my letters and markings.  Again I'm experimenting here prior to my FW190 build which is sort of shelved while I do the 110.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Declan: ref masking tape, i use the "frog" yellow " low tack" available from BnQ. Gives good results with no bleed underneath. Don't use there cheap blue masking tape 😕 as paint bleed. "You get what you pay for in this life" 😉 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, gillyg1 said:

Declan: ref masking tape, i use the "frog" yellow " low tack" available from BnQ

 Yes that is good stuff and i have a couple of rolls myself.  It is pretty much the same as the modelling masking tape.  Some of the modelling tape is much thinner such as 1mm and upwards in thickness which is much easier on curves etc.  You can cut the frog tape into strips as some modellers do but I supposed that depends on your budget and how much free time you have.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

FWIW the Woodpigeon shade of green that Ron and Richard recommended from B & Q is the best match to RAF Dark Green that I've seen - even better than the match pots from a scanned tailplane and much better than the latest, changed, Humbrol #30, which was such a good match previously. Never seen a real like wood pigeon anywhere near that colour though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, payneib said:

Did the Luftwaffe do a "fuzzy edge" on their camo, was it all hard edge demarcation, or mottling? 

 

If you're after a fuzzy edge between the camo blocks, foam seal strips from Amazon are brilliant. 

Hard edges to the splinter camouflage in Luftwaffe pre -mid 1940 day fighters and bombers, then mottles were gradually introduced, starting with the fuselage.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Due to frozen snow on the field it looks like a while before the test flight so I done some more painting.

It's too cold to do a Richard and fly it in the nude. The teeth were cut from matt white vinyl,  I have to make the exhausts, next job. Then sort  the spinners out as the current ones are too small 20250110_221315.thumb.jpg.b6c383bde62efbe1dcbbf6c1cfe3c68e.jpg

  • Like 12
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the Maiden flight today taking off on the frozen snow, all went well, I flew it on a 3s 5000, 14x7 APC props, weight just over 10lb, 75% left after approx 3 minutes. It flew at about scale speed, it could do with a little more power in reserve. I will see what it is like with a little more wind before making any changes.

I need to cut some more from the nacelles as one leg didn't retract fully.  I belly landed it on the snow, no problem 

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/01/2025 at 17:02, Eric Robson said:

I flew it on a 3s 5000, 14x7 APC props

Is this the one battery in the nose test?  Interesting.

 

I'm trying to do some planning ahead with regards to battery purchasing.  I now have three models that use my 4S 2600 batteries from 4Max.  This is quite a nice situation to be in.  George at 4Max directing me to the power setup for the Me110 suggests 4S 3700 mAh batteries along with a smaller battery for the ubec to the receiver.  We've already covered that requirement in this thread and I'm probably going to just use the two batteries an dispense with the ubec.  My next thought process is some streamlining of battery purchasing with regards to models.  I don't have a model that will take the 4S 3700 mAh battery and from what I can see not likely to have one in the near future.  I'd need six of them to give me three flights on the Me110 on a flying day.  I am however, considering the purchase later in the year of an EDF jet upgrade to my current Arrows 64mm jet.  The larger 80mm jets use 6S and 5000 mAh looks like a good middle ground for those.  Going bigger still such as the twin jets like the Freewing Mig29 the doubling up of 6S seems common.  So in the interest of some rationalisation could I use the 6S for the Me110, either a a single in the nose or dual in the nacelles?  The weight and size will not be an issue for two given the models dimension.  I may indeed have enough demand for 4S 3700 mAh in a few years time but I need to keep an eye on this years budget! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Declan,  Yes 1   3s battery in the nose, I need to do further testing before deciding,  it balances with that set up so a 6s would have to move back quite a bit you would have to make sure the esc's were for 6s and if using the motors supplied by Richard I  am not sure if they would be suitable for 6s as the props would have to be quite small, I use 12x6 on 4s so probably a max of 10x5 and at that it would be screaming, I  am no expert on electric set ups I use an Astro flight watt meter to get a rough idea of my set ups. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For anyone other than a real "electric expert " , follow my lead . 4s 3300 packs or similar , 600kv motors . remember , the correct spinners and props provided have been matched to a certain rev range which the above mentioned will provide . My motors also have the central threaded hole to retain the spinner dome with . 

So if you go "off piste" you are like to run into all the issues I have already discovered and solved for you . 

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Declan said:

Is this the one battery in the nose test?  Interesting.

 

I'm trying to do some planning ahead with regards to battery purchasing.  I now have three models that use my 4S 2600 batteries from 4Max.  This is quite a nice situation to be in.  George at 4Max directing me to the power setup for the Me110 suggests 4S 3700 mAh batteries along with a smaller battery for the ubec to the receiver.  We've already covered that requirement in this thread and I'm probably going to just use the two batteries an dispense with the ubec.  My next thought process is some streamlining of battery purchasing with regards to models.  I don't have a model that will take the 4S 3700 mAh battery and from what I can see not likely to have one in the near future.  I'd need six of them to give me three flights on the Me110 on a flying day.  I am however, considering the purchase later in the year of an EDF jet upgrade to my current Arrows 64mm jet.  The larger 80mm jets use 6S and 5000 mAh looks like a good middle ground for those.  Going bigger still such as the twin jets like the Freewing Mig29 the doubling up of 6S seems common.  So in the interest of some rationalisation could I use the 6S for the Me110, either a a single in the nose or dual in the nacelles?  The weight and size will not be an issue for two given the models dimension.  I may indeed have enough demand for 4S 3700 mAh in a few years time but I need to keep an eye on this years budget! 

 

 

Not really.

 

As Eric pointed out, going to a 6s1p battery would not suit the supplied motors and props and you would need to come down to much smaller pros and be carrying lots of undesirable battery weight. Those 6s1p batteries are going to be significantly more expensive than the smaller capacity 4s1p 3300mah packs. 

 

Richard's post is spot on - he's recommended an optimised power train for the model and diverting too far from that will make things unnecessarily more complex and with reduced chances of smooth operation.

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My other top tip is lock the tailwheel . Unless you go down the route of differential throttles like Ron , there is not enough gain involved to make it steerable . 

The worst option is fully castoring . This is only my opinion , but I cant see why castoring tail wheels is a good idea on any tail dragger model . 

When you think about the model , sitting there , ready to take off , there are no forces acting on it . As soon as you open the throttle it will be effected by torque and want to swing left . The fixed and moving flying surfaces have no airflow over them to counteract this force so the only way to negate the swing is a fixed tailwheel on a long moment arm (the fuselage ) . At what point would you guess the rudder actually has enough air flowing over it to apply an equalising force ? 10 mph ? 15mph ?

Fair to assume you would have to be perhaps, at least 20 feet from the start point . Of course the prop thrust will help , but that also depends on tail plain height and the blanking effect of the main wing . 

The famous test pilot , Eric Brown , said of the Me110 , that its fins and rudders were blanked when the tail was down and the only way to stop a swing was differential braking.

The Mosquito and Me109 also relied on brakes to stay straight . 

We don't have brakes . Fit a stabiliser some may say . But that needs an effective rudder to correct the swing . Back to square one . 

Funny enough , the models that are prone to nosing over are more likely to run straight than those that have a more forward location of their main gear . 

That is because the further the centre of rotation is from the C of G the , the more it will "squirrel " about . Think Fokker Triplane . Sopwith Camel .

So for most you , just lock the tail wheel and forget it . Light , simple . Ok so you may have to get the model after a landing but way better than a massive take off swing that frightens your buddies and may end in a cart wheel . 

Like I say , just my thoughts . 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...