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There's also the smaller version of the FMS Easy Trainer. Might be a bit tricky in a wind. Depending on skill level, perhaps a UMX Crescendo might work. You can start on 2S and move to 3S for more performance on the same model. Enough ability to keep you interested. AS3X should help in the wind to start with. Might be a bit quick (visually, small models get small very fast so appear a lot faster)

One thing i forgot. Aborted landing/go-around procedure. With your elevator flap mix enabled if you need to go around do not under any circumstances firewall the throttle. If you do, especially on a 50cc class model, you will have a massive shot of torque rolling you left and because of your low speed your ailerons will not cope and may in fact induce a stall. The rise in speed will also cause an almost uncontrollable pitch up if you just boot it. If you need to go around rapidly advance the throttle to about half, hold the model level (forward elevator pressure), flaps up to half, gear up, increase to 75% throttle, flaps up, climb away. I use a variation of this technique and just go to flaps half and cruise round the circuit at half throttle holding the model down, but i am very used to this type of flying so for the newcomer to this style its best to just tidy the model up and go again.

It’s not acrylic or Perspex, it is this stuff http://www.rcfoam.com/rc-hobby-tools-/pattern-cutting-templates/rcfoam---cool-tools-p-1001.html No idea where you can get it nor what alternatives can be used though. It possibly is similar to acrylic but this is 0.25mm thick, plenty of places selling that but in smaller sheets, not sure whether it would snap when scored though.

@GreyAce there are two of those Trainstars (or clones) in our club. Although they look benign, they seem quite challenging to fly, and fall out if the sky unless the speed is kept up. Although it doesn't look much like a 'real' plane, the Volantex Ranger (small one) is VERY easy to fly and possibly a better entry point...

Final voltage

Hello all. I'm contemplating building a Middle Phase 2 as an electric model as an alternative to foamy lot. I would normally aim for around 100w/lb for something like that, but one of my ideas is an EDF unit on top of the wing and I'm not sure if the same formula applies to EDF My initial thought would be something like this, but on 3S rather than 4, or would it need 4S because of the higher kv motor? EDF unit But I'm not at all experienced with edf so working out power systems is a new thing. Any thoughts? I'm not sure how things like diameter, fan pitch, nacelle length etc work in comparison to a prop.

I can set final voltage but my charger is limited to 6 amps

My apologies, I missed that part. In which case, I think the combination of lack of space, wind and relatively inexperienced pilot renders the question moot. Ignoring the potential to lose the model in a tree, on a road or whatever else, it'll only take a moment of disorientation and a close call with a member of the public and there'll be a "no model flying" rule slapped on the park. Stick to the heli and calm days, or find a more suitable place to fly when the wind is blowing is my advice. We're on the radar as it is with all the drone incidents and the powers that be don't differentiate.

Yeah I am certainly thinking about all the advice and next month is my birthday hence I want to get something at that time,at first I was thinking a heli as there's so many available but the wind situation is tricky or a plane which I am actively looking at now and sim work,I was even gona get a henglong leopard 2 pro version rc tank but I figure you can only do so much on the ground before getting bored but either way I have been flying for a few months now and I certainly ain't giving up on this flying hobby,I really enjoy being outside and enjoying the flying of whatever I have.

Cold and wet here in N.Essex - not much better for tomorrow or next week TBH.

This sounds like the most likely reason. If it's just one servo acting up in this way then I'd advise you to cut your losses and chuck it in the bin. BTW, as they sound to be unbranded 'bargains' can you really trust the others? Not worth getting your blood pressure up about TBH and certainly not worth risking a model. Annoying, but there have been cases of rubbish servos finding their way on to the market - thankfully, not quite so much of a problem as of late.

Mine uses clamps that I made for the lower (more middle really) mount and a threaded hole in the top. Much used and abused… Showing evidence of previous long forgotten fixing methods. I think I duplicated whatever was original with reasonably substantial aluminium doors many years ago. The old girl is well past the first flush of youth but is still great to fly!

Some interesting history of the Oliver Battleaxe here. I had heard of the Battleaxe but didn't recognise it. I certainly had no idea that Oliver engines were first produced for tethered cars.

I do think the advice given by Chris ( first answer) should be looked at. These models look beautiful and by all means buy one if you can afford it, but as another forumite said, “ both water based like swimming and fishing” You know your own capabilities, so go for it if you think it’s the right thing to do. Best of luck.

Mine Band saw is about 30 in tall and from memory weighs about 15Kg ish . Not too heavy to lift about. I have taken mine into the garden to cut longer pieces than my workspace allows . Forgot to say that it also has a facility to connect a vacuum to stop saw dust going everywhere although you will have to make up some sort of adapter as it too big for normal vac cleaners

Clik 21...

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@Martin Harris - Moderator how are your U/C doors mounted? I've just taken mine off whilst fiddling with the forward rake. And I'm wondering if I could do it better/easier than I've what got.

Regarding the wing fairing fillet in my kit I think it was a block of balsa and I think some thin ply that I stuck to the fuselage side to make a smoother curve after adding the wings. I then trimmed and sanded it to match the wing . That part of the build was slightly fiddly .

Do you guys use chargers that you can set the final charging voltage or do you monitor and stop at the charger at the appropriate time?

How big/heavy is that bandsaw. I don't have a permanent workshop so what attracted me by the mini table saw was being able to store it away in a draw or cupboard when I don't need it and that it does need much table space on the rare occasions when I would need to use it.

Just added the photo in the workshop to show undercarriage. Ps I moved the cockpit for on my build as I preferred that look.

Sorry, remind me, what are they?

Yeah, I know what you mean, Peter. The Citrin looks a lovely piece of kit and I can see its appeal. The Bell Hops do indeed seem to have a similar look to the Chilli Breeze. Nice photos too. I tended to prefer the larger Chilli Wind when I was cutting my flying teeth some years ago, although I did build a Chilli Breeze too. Aah, happy days then😊

Great description - done right, there’s an almost surreal connection between the throttle and its effect on the model’s position on the glide path. Difficult to visualise in words but get a steady approach set up - particularly with draggy flaps - with power balancing drag and the connection is unmistakable.