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  2. hi all researching the flap operation now Robin has it seems refrenced 1 servo with bell cranks for the main flaps and outer flaps also this concerns me a bit as the main wings come off. i think i may have to re design here ,maybe using micro servos for the wing flaps ? any help would be appreciated cheers
  3. Hmm that's a interesting idea thanks I will look at that direction to,I am very competent now at flying the Helis I have only crashed the md500 once and after I repaired it myself I have not had another incident and it's probably got 60 flights on it now or more but as soon as the breezes hit 15 mph it's not capable of coping with it and on a nice day I'd like to fly something?
  4. Had a great day in the garage today making lots of casting swarf, but good results with only one very near cock-up but i dodged the bullet by luck alone. Lots of pics: Plan was to machine the crankcase casting, front casting and rear all bar the attaching screw holes, still awaiting my £15.75 pillar drill for that. Finished the exhaust port inside and out and machined the small engine mounting pads, far to small, so was very minimal in my milling. Spent a lot of time getting parts to fit into my tiny chucks, but got there ok. The front casting was dead easy, the casting remarkably true, so all machined and reamed, bushes over the weekend I hope. The rear cover was a pain. It is 'just' too big and lumpy to get into the 4 jaw, so had to chop the bulk of the venturi cast feature and will make a brass substitute and epoxy it in place into the plain hole I've drilled. The spot facing of the attaching screw hole pads was awkward too as I could not cut them by turning, only using the devilish compound cross slide, but got there. I made a mistake turning down the rear casting to fit the case, but had left some final material to cut so mamaged to get a nice fit after all, much as the front one is. The matching of all these features in the casting is laughable. Might file some once screwed together to get most to match, but probably will just leave them. All the pics:
  5. Duff servo? Try another. Out of interest what is push rod made of and type of radio used.
  6. IMO, go for something that's simple and easy to fix with plenty of spares, probably something like a flying wing (delta). If its blowing the no UC and hand launch is easy. Have a look at what the slope soaring guys use and quite a few are easily converted to powered flight, but are tough as nails. I have a Flite Test Versa with a motor at both ends and the increased wing loading and plenty of power is good up to 30mph gusting 45mph all on a 3S2200. Plus the plans can be downloaded so cut 2 or 3 out at a time! FT Versa Wing - Build | Flite Test Benefits of cheap and tough Low cost Easy to fix Parts available from multiple sources, failing that use a glue gun Because its the above you fly more relaxed and crash less!
  7. Does anybody know of any model flying clubs near Nairn ?
  8. when i connect servo to rudder servo goes berserk, ie banging from end to end travel, have checked all leads ok. its only when i connect the push rod to the rudder. rudder very floppy, no binding any ideas?
  9. I am flying Helis but I am getting frustrated on windier days where I have to retreat cos of it getting bad but I am thinking of goin to planes and getting this fw-190,anyone tried it? Any good? It would be my first plane but I have been flying Helis months now but I want to fly something on windier days.
  10. Today
  11. My three models to complete now put to one side, - so my bench nice and clear 😁
  12. Previously Richard posted something to me in a shoe box, my late wife was please that I had spent the money on something else than model aeroplanes until I opened it and there were a pair of retracts! Then again she did scour most of Europe to locate a long term discontinued model from Germany for my birthday IIRC Richard Can't find the cheque book so BAC's made and letter in the post with the shopping list! Thanks
  13. John Brisrow of Delux Materials went into the science of adhesives on a BMFA In the Air Tonight presentation about a year ago. I can’t remember if he covered your exact query but you should find it of interest.
  14. I've recently acquired a complete fuselage - but unfortunately the wing was sold at a local table top sale!! So - just in case anyone reading this, or who happens to know who bought a transparent yellow vintage wing from the recent Phoenix MAC table top sale at Chelford Village Hall, please get in touch. I was planning to use the Zephyr to teach my granddaughter to fly. Many thanks
  15. https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26_69&sort=1a&products_id=9389 Just one (albeit out of stock) option, I'm sure there are many others.
  16. I prefer the tiny screws from model fixings, for the simple reason that it renders the canopy/screen removable if necessary. I have tried covering after canopy/screen is glued in place but it has generally been rather unsuccessful.
  17. With the exception of the pilot, the only things I could take out at this point are forward of the CoG, so they'd just get replaced with lead anyway.
  18. I read Piers talking about flaps. Differntial aileron: no washout, ARTF: 68 inch chipmonk, weighs 8lbs.
  19. I wish. The only way I could make it work in the space available was with multiple linear actuators and a control board. Unfortunately the budget wasn't as big as the ideas.
  20. Zorba, I think you are describing acrylic or Perspex (same stuff) sheet in Europe. Usually minimum thickness is 1 mm. it would do what you describe the American product doing. I assume you mean the USA
  21. For what it's worth, I just use tracing paper. Trace the parts with a thin sharpie or rotring pen. Cut out, glue the paper pattern to the wood with pritt stick and draw around it with a pencil. Then just cut to the inside of the pencil line.
  22. People to whom the 1930s, 40s and 50s were as significant as the 1970s and 80s are to most of the contributors here. For the Americans, the golden years were the 1930s when balsa wood and petrol engines first appeared in large quantities. Over here, power flying was banned in the war, so the mid to late 1940s and 50s were of greater importance. The question is whether vintage should focus on the models or the participants? In car terms, the Ford Model T may be more significant to the development of the automobile, however a Mk1 Escort or Capri is more likely to evoke more memories for those with the time and money to buy and restore them now.
  23. Or at all. Every sliding canopy i have ever seen has done one thing, and one thing only. Fall off. They look cool, but every one i have ever seen has made a bid for freedom in short order!
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