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Foam Wing Cutter


alex nicol
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The most up to date power supply is to use a 3 or 4 cell lipo and an esc with a nichrome wire bow .I have no experience with this setup but if you go onto the RCMF forum a member PDR is expert on this .I use a 240 to 25 volt transformer and a big series wound variable resistor in series.This works well but I scrounged the hardware ,I think the cost of ‘this ser upwould be far too high if bought new

Alan

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My set up uses a transformer with a light dimmer switch so you can adjust the power needed for the foam that is being cut and the length. The denser the foam and the longer the foam requires more heat. If you cut with a wire that is too hot you get a ripple effect and the wire can stretch so you loose accuracy, too cold means a slow cut. My transfomer also has an amp meter so you can see where you are when switching on heat wisect 2.jpg. The bow design is also important as you need to tension the cutting wire. This is how mine looks. I was given this set up and am not the best to describe electronics.

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Posted by Phil B on 15/11/2019 08:13:34:

I know a guy who uses metal guitar strings about 3 foot long, probably the top E string! He gets the right tension by tuning it! He can play status quo songs while it's warming up! 😜

I have used guitar strings successfully. The thinnest one there is. Simply connected to a 12V battery. Worked well enough over 700mm span.

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Hi Alex,

I use nichrome wire see link. ( 80//20 nickel-chrome alloy resistance wire )  Web site for hot wire

I too have used the above wire from broken electric heaters, however it can be ordered on a 60m length bobbin, your power supply is adequate, however I tend to use a 12V DC battery charger with a 12v car battery in parallel.

The wire has a outer diameter of - 0.71mm - which is like a guitar ( note g-string ) which I've also used many years ago.

20191118_205425.jpg

I've got bows from 15" to 50 " in length.

Here's a auto- slicing cut going on :-

20141004_224200.jpg

 

 

 

Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 18/11/2019 22:30:32

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Quick Update,

I bought a 24v 3a laptop type power supply with an adjustable output of 9 to 24v (about £8 on ebay)

The current bow is circa 33"with 0.5mm nichrome wire giving a resistance value of 7.8 ohms and giving a nice cut at about 15v. Next step is to extend the bow to around 44" and try again.

One question I do have, is what material do you find works best for cutting template

Thanks

Alex

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My simple bow is a length of polypipe with wooden arms at each end extending up and down from the wire which is tensioned with a couple of lengths of strimmer line and a turniquet ( how do you spell that?) of piano wire in the centre which is held in position by the pipe once wound up to tension. The cutting wire came from Nexus. Power is from a huge 24V transformer which I sort of obtained and the temperature of the wire is set by winding the ends round the wooden arms until just right. Sounds more complex than it actually is.

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It's spelled windlass.

Some years ago we made a few very simple, effective foam cutting bows with three pieces of 2x1" PAR, with tension applied by a windlass on a stout nylon cord across the two arms at the top. Make up a set of asymettrical "rugby posts" with a notch cut in the upper section on each side, fix the cord across between this, then use a stout stick through the cord, winding this up to tension the cord.

Power supply varied between a couple of car batteries, a Minicraft minidrill power supply and an MCA foam cutter power supply. Something between 12v and 24v worked well, depending on the length of bow, which varied from 12" -42".

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Just made and quickly tested a 48" bow, it cut nicely about the 20v mark, the set up is a bit crude but so far so good.

Unfortunately lack of foam stops play for now. I've ordered a 1200 x 600 x 300mm block. I've scaled up Mike D's Big Easy to 82" span and will give the wings and tail a bash once foam arrives.

I'll stick some plcs up shortly

Cheers

Alex

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On another forum, the common practice seems now to be

veneer of choice (balsa, obechi, etc)

very thin spread of gorilla glue (or other foaming PU glue) on the veneer

line it all up

put the wing back into the offcuts and weight it all down for 24 hrs

disclaimer - I've never veneered a pair of foam wings

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Having once tried veneer, which is prone to splitting, I now only use 1/16th balsa. The joined and sanded sheets and one side of the core are coated with slightly thinned Copydex, left to dry completely then the core carefully rolled over the balsa. You only get one go at this so maybe epoxy is a better bet, using the shutts (offcuts) and weights (sand bags).

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