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2 or 3 questions please, need some wise advice


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The best covering instructions are those on the Solarfilm DVD by Derek Hardman himself - inventor of Solarfilm and numerous aeromodelling items. A real genious and a plain speaking man who told you the facts- especially about overheating Solarfilm with a heat gun which causes it to slacken off in use because too much heat was used in applying it.

Follow his instructions!  Watching the 1 hour 37 minute video will be time well spent.

Edited By kc on 13/03/2020 11:29:06

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Thanks for the advice as ever.

I'll have a watch of the video first.

Had a response from George at 4-Max this morning. Offered a new servo, but I've told him all is well which it is.

Also advised him the ESC link was down, but he sent me a detailed instruction to calibrate the ESc so will do that incase I've missed something. Sounds quite complex!

Time to assemble the plane and link everything up progressively to check operation and to se the motor with 2 deg off-set.

As I remember from 1960, with the plane in plan view and the direction of flight is @ 12.00noon the motor axis is clockwise 2 degrees.

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Iron sock, very useful in big flat areas and sweeping curves; less so for fiddly corners, but buy (hoard) a packet of baby socks, cheaper, washable, freely available at all good supermarkets near you.

If they've still got paracetamol, please pm me. Getting hell at home. How is lavatory paper and paracetamol going to help with a virus?

BTC

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Ha! I need far more than Paracetamol.

Switched the radio gear on to check it and all is LOST!

Much of the progress of yesterday is out of the window, and this model is very nearly out with it.

What a farce this is.

Throttle works, elevator on right stick works, rudder channel is nowhere to be seen and THAT servo is doing nothing, so I presume is not getting told anything from the Tx/Rx.

WHY has this all changed since switching off last night and switch on this morning?

I can't so far find the condition that worked last night.

Utterly disappointing.

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Try not to be disheartened,there has to be a logical solution to your problems. So the servo operating the rudder is not working? Therefore, the problem has to lie with the servo, the receiver, the battery or the transmitter.

But let's just recap a minute. On a three channel model, ie a model without ailerons, the servo operating your rudder should be plugged in to the aileron port, regardless of whether you fly Mode1 or Mode 2. Is it in the right port?

Ok, assuming that the battery has a reasonable state of charge, I would firstly unplug the servo operating the rudder and one of the other servos which we know to be working correctly, say the elevator servo. I would reconnect the elevator servo into the port which you were using for the rudder servo. With transmitter and receiver powered up does the servo move when you move the stick from side to side? If so you have a duff servo, i.e, the one that was originally plugged into the same port and driving the rudder. If the servo, which we know to be sound does not move, you either have a problem with the transmitter or receiver, again assuming that the battery is adequately charged. If it's not, all of the above could be pointless.

But one last thing. Do you have the servo which operates the rudder correctly installed? It is possible to fit the servo plug into the receiver the wrong way round so that the polarity is reversed. On a Spektrum receiver the negatve wires, black or brown depending upon the manufacturer, should be towards the outside of the rx case. if it is not, it won't harm the receiver or servo,but it simply won't work.

 

 

Edited By David Davis on 13/03/2020 14:24:19

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P.S Hillclimber,

If you get to the stage where the elevator servo works in the port that you were using to drive the rudder servo, try connecting the rudder servo to the elevator port and moving the stick up and down. If the servo does not work in that port, you definitely have a duff servo!

PPS. Most of us have a servo tester. They're as cheap as chips and can test a servo without you having to use your transmitter and receiver. Sorry that the following is in French but I live in France. They are widely available in the UK. **LINK**

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Posted by paul d on 13/03/2020 14:50:10:

Where abouts are you Hillclimber? sounds like you could do with a fresh pair of eyes to give it the once over.

Agreed, that is probably the best way forward.

I think there was talk of the nearest club being at Alveley near Bridgnorth in which case it Is probably CMFC, and from their website:-

"Whilst the club has no formal setup for the training of new pilots we are a friendly bunch and most members will be more than happy to assist any newcomers. The club environment is the best way to enter into the world of model flying and can help to reduce the cost of those 'first steps'! "

Dick

Edited By Dickw on 13/03/2020 15:07:51

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David Davies- you might be right but I think you could have 2 or more memories both bound to the same Rx and they will still work! It's only if you have a different Rx that model match kicks in and wont work. But I might be wrong! Note that on 10th march 911 said he would bind it again- that's why I mentioned this.

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Thanks all, still irritated!

Been out for tea and lemon drizzle cake(s) and still irritated!!.

Through the hours with this thing I've used the one servo that has always responded to determine the rudder/elevator movements, and will do this again.

Decided to start from scratch on Sunday though will have a go later, wife getting irritated with me being irritable....

I will calibrate the ESC as per 4-Max instructions first.

Some details:

The Tx shows the servos listed and the range of movements which cam be selected. The rudder side ways motion on both sticks show the Ailerons moving, never the rudder.

The rudder channel never shows movement. I then went to the System set-up side (no connection now to the Rx) and the Channel selection where you can change the functions. I have rudder to rudder etc set, so...why is there no rudder movement shown?

Secondly, the 'duff' servo is over to an extreme position. If I manually wind it to the other side of the travel, 180 degs , and switch the Tx on the servo winds straight round 180 to a stop. The Tx will not move the servo at all, whatever channel it is in.

However, this 'duff' servo worked perfectly last night repeatedly. Maybe I'll clout it with a hammer, I am from Birmingham.

As to my location, I'm in Wombourne about 20 mins from Bridgnorth.

Something is stupidly wrong here and I suspect it is with the Tx set-up.

However, as you sages know now, I know nothing!

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So:

ESC calibrated, motor all ok.

Good servo works great on right stick rudder/elevator movements. The 'duff' servo will do nothing to Tx command.

I have obviously swopped positions of the servo to the appropriate channels.

I've asked 4-Max for another servo. I've given George all this info.

Tx batteries down to 4.5v so fresh batteries needed.

Will try again when the servo appears.

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Here in the South we call a hammer a " Brumagen Screwdriver"   ........best not to use on servos!

Servos can be damaged by a linkage that jams/ stops travel before the full movement is reached.  Often repairable by turning it back by hand etc but it might not have been faulty when supplied!   May not be reliable after such treatment and best replaced.   

Edited By kc on 13/03/2020 17:52:49

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Indeed, hence asking for a new one.

The errant servo will always power to the same extreme position from where ever I manually turn it. The gears are smooth and quite quiet.

On the Tx, no matter what I re-assign to where, the channels never change, so I have throt/rudder on the left stick and Ele/ Alie on the right stick.

I can't get the rudder over to the right stick and the alier to the left stick.

According to the manual this should be possible using the system menu.

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The normal practice on a three channel model, one without ailerons, is for the rudder servo to be plugged into the aileron socket of the rx, giving rudder left and right on the right stick, elevator up and down on the right stick and motor up and down on the left stick. This is the Mode 2 arrangement which is the most popular option in the UK.

Even Mode1 fliers use the right stick horizontally to drive the rudder on a three channel model.

I've never met anyone in thirty-eight years of flying r/c models who uses your second option.

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