Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang

[Joakim Karlsson 1]

Very happy to see people building the P-51!
A plane with a lot of colour schemes to choose from.

Thought I'd post a couple of favorites while I finish eating my meatballs, bork bork!

[RICHARD WILLS]

I "Keeya " what you're saying Joakim . Welcome back .

[Eric Robson]

Gordon, I tried some laminating film on the elevator and the radiator scoop but did not do any more due to being unhappy with the scoop .it kept wrinkling so I used brown paper. I have primered the tail end today and the elevator is far better than the paper covering. I will persevere with it on my next build .

Richard , I am hearing to many saab stories lately.

[Paul Johnson 4]

Posted by alan p on 30/01/2021 14:38:28:

Paul

You have used the D type plugs on your other builds where do you get them without having to bulk purchase.

Alan p

Hi Alan,

I got mine ages ago from CPC, but if you have some old computers knocking about they're a good source too!

[Joakim Karlsson 1]

Are there any how-to-threads about this mysterious laminating film?

 

Edited By Joakim Karlsson 1 on 30/01/2021 22:08:46

[David Hazell 1]

Posted by Eric Robson on 30/01/2021 21:10:20:

Gordon, I tried some laminating film on the elevator and the radiator scoop but did not do any more due to being unhappy with the scoop .it kept wrinkling so I used brown paper. I have primered the tail end today and the elevator is far better than the paper covering. I will persevere with it on my next build .

Richard , I am hearing to many saab stories lately.

I asked a few posts ago which was better in terms of weight, but I'm also curious about ease of application, other qualities of each. Can I get some feedback from you lovely rabble?

[RICHARD WILLS]

Posted by Joakim Karlsson 1 on 30/01/2021 22:06:24:

Are there any how-to-threads about this mysterious laminating film?

Edited By Joakim Karlsson 1 on 30/01/2021 22:08:46

Joakim , I ve only done a few tail areas so am not really the expert . Lets see if either Ron or Graham R can add some detail . If not , I will try to add a bit more info.

[Graham Davies 3]

Tried laminating film for the first time this evening on a Cambrian Spitfire. I rather like it. You do need to plan carefully where there are curves to avoid wrinkling, and as Richard said to me, keep the iron cool to avoid blistering. I found it went on very well.

Any better than brown paper? Hmm. Not sure. It's going to be quicker, and i suspect it will be a bit lighter. It's certainly a worthy option though.

Graham

[Ron Gray]

@Joakim - the method of application of laminating film is similar to standard covering film, but you do have to pay more attention when covering solid surfaces such as wing skins. The method I use, which avoids wrinkles, is to tack and seal the film at the edges pulling the film as tight as I can, I then apply a hot (150 degrees) iron, or air gun across the surface of the film which shrinks it then I smooth it down with a cloth. If you try and work from one edge to the other then you will in all probability get wrinkles unless you use a low heat but I prefer the edge seal first method. Open structures aren't so much of an issue. I've been using it for over a year now and it is my favourite type of covering where I want to apply a painted finish such as warbirds. Eric mentioned the problem he had covering the rad scoop, I've covered similar complex curved surfaces and find that tacking and sealing one edge then applying heat to the film whist really pulling it, then as it 'gives' (you can feel it go!) apply it to the surface and smooth down, seems to work. But the key word here is practice! I tried lam film out on all manner of scrap pieces of structure / bits of wood before I was confident to tale it forward to covering an airframe.

@David - in terms of weight I would guess that there wouldn't be much difference between the paper method and the film, however you are not applying any wet stuff directly to the surface and there is no need for sealing laminating film. Prep for paint consists of keying the lam film with a fine sandpaper or Scotch Brite type pad then undercoat followed by top coat (rubbing down in between).

The big advantages in using lam film are cost (compared to normal covering film) and strength (compared to paper and normal covering film)

[Gordon McConnell]

Posted by Eric Robson on 30/01/2021 21:10:20:

Gordon, I tried some laminating film on the elevator and the radiator scoop but did not do any more due to being unhappy with the scoop .it kept wrinkling so I used brown paper. I have primered the tail end today and the elevator is far better than the paper covering. I will persevere with it on my next build .

Richard , I am hearing to many saab stories lately.

Eric, thanks for sharing. I am really undecided on the covering. I think I might find the brown paper easier than the laminating film. I do have some white Solartex which I could use but it may be too heavy. All my past models have been Solarfilm or Solartex. Got some time to think about further - still working on the wings! 😄😄

[Gordon McConnell]

Posted by Eric Robson on 30/01/2021 21:10:20:

Gordon, I tried some laminating film on the elevator and the radiator scoop but did not do any more due to being unhappy with the scoop .it kept wrinkling so I used brown paper. I have primered the tail end today and the elevator is far better than the paper covering. I will persevere with it on my next build .

Richard , I am hearing to many saab stories lately.

Eric, thanks for sharing. I am really undecided on the covering. I think I might find the brown paper easier than the laminating film. I do have some white Solartex which I could use but it may be too heavy. All my past models have been Solarfilm or Solartex. Got some time to think about further - still working on the wings! 😄😄

[Gordon McConnell]

Posted by Eric Robson on 30/01/2021 21:10:20:

Gordon, I tried some laminating film on the elevator and the radiator scoop but did not do any more due to being unhappy with the scoop .it kept wrinkling so I used brown paper. I have primered the tail end today and the elevator is far better than the paper covering. I will persevere with it on my next build .

Richard , I am hearing to many saab stories lately.

Eric, thanks for sharing. I am really undecided on the covering. I think I might find the brown paper easier than the laminating film. I do have some white Solartex which I could use but it may be too heavy. All my past models have been Solarfilm or Solartex. Got some time to think about further - still working on the wings! 😄😄

[Gordon McConnell]

Posted by Eric Robson on 30/01/2021 21:10:20:

Gordon, I tried some laminating film on the elevator and the radiator scoop but did not do any more due to being unhappy with the scoop .it kept wrinkling so I used brown paper. I have primered the tail end today and the elevator is far better than the paper covering. I will persevere with it on my next build .

Richard , I am hearing to many saab stories lately.

Eric, thanks for sharing. I am really undecided on the covering. I think I might find the brown paper easier than the laminating film. I do have some white Solartex which I could use but it may be too heavy. All my past models have been Solarfilm or Solartex. Got some time to think about further - still working on the wings! 😄😄

[Gordon McConnell]

Posted by Eric Robson on 30/01/2021 21:10:20:

Gordon, I tried some laminating film on the elevator and the radiator scoop but did not do any more due to being unhappy with the scoop .it kept wrinkling so I used brown paper. I have primered the tail end today and the elevator is far better than the paper covering. I will persevere with it on my next build .

Richard , I am hearing to many saab stories lately.

Eric, thanks for sharing. I am really undecided on the covering. I think I might find the brown paper easier than the laminating film. I do have some white Solartex which I could use but it may be too heavy. All my past models have been Solarfilm or Solartex. Got some time to think about further - still working on the wings! 😄😄

[RICHARD WILLS]

Gordon , Gordon , Gordon . Is , I say , is , this a new style of posting ?

[Ron Gray]

I think it’s for those who are hard of hearing.

[Gordon McConnell]

Woops!!!! Don’t know how that happened!! Sorry guys.

[leccyflyer]

No worries Gordon - mind you the weight might add up if you put five layers of laminating film on

[Eric Robson]

Tail end complete and 1st coat of primer, tried some aluminium under the wings but it was too cold.

[David Hazell 1]

Looks fab!

[David Hazell 1]

Posted by Ron Gray on 30/01/2021 22:30:24:

@Joakim - the method of application of laminating film is similar to standard covering film, but you do have to pay more attention when covering solid surfaces such as wing skins. The method I use, which avoids wrinkles, is to tack and seal the film at the edges pulling the film as tight as I can, I then apply a hot (150 degrees) iron, or air gun across the surface of the film which shrinks it then I smooth it down with a cloth. If you try and work from one edge to the other then you will in all probability get wrinkles unless you use a low heat but I prefer the edge seal first method. Open structures aren't so much of an issue. I've been using it for over a year now and it is my favourite type of covering where I want to apply a painted finish such as warbirds. Eric mentioned the problem he had covering the rad scoop, I've covered similar complex curved surfaces and find that tacking and sealing one edge then applying heat to the film whist really pulling it, then as it 'gives' (you can feel it go!) apply it to the surface and smooth down, seems to work. But the key word here is practice! I tried lam film out on all manner of scrap pieces of structure / bits of wood before I was confident to tale it forward to covering an airframe.

@David - in terms of weight I would guess that there wouldn't be much difference between the paper method and the film, however you are not applying any wet stuff directly to the surface and there is no need for sealing laminating film. Prep for paint consists of keying the lam film with a fine sandpaper or Scotch Brite type pad then undercoat followed by top coat (rubbing down in between).

The big advantages in using lam film are cost (compared to normal covering film) and strength (compared to paper and normal covering film)

Thank you for your message Ron. I've noticed lots of mentions of 38 micron, would 30 micron be just too fragile? Or is it more a case of the lighter the better?

[Ron Gray]

@David - I use 38 micron only because when I bought it that was the lightest I could get, I was after 32. If you are going to use it on the 'stang, or another airframe that is sheeted or solid surface then it won't make a (noticeable) difference to the finish but I would say that it will be easier to apply. On open frame 50" and above I would use the 38 micron, on foamies i would say that the 30 would be ideal. Remember, lam film is strong, a lot stronger than we are used to with normal covering film.

[RICHARD WILLS]

Posted by Phil McCavity on 30/01/2021 12:49:33:

Richard, where is your article on weathering? I've looked on your site and clicked on the link but nothing appears, the Spitfire build does but the weathering lesson is gone!

Ok so regarding the weathering. Even if you havent got to this stage , it is worth perhaps having a practice on some of your old models first . Or even just a sheet of grey paper or similar .

The effect above is obtained very simply , You draw a panel line on with a fine indelible black pen . Then follow the same line with a white gel pen . These pens are quite cheap but simulate the glint of light that you often get from the bright edge of a worn panel . Next step is to add a strip of masking tape on the forward side of the line . Then rub some charcoal or black chalk along the MASKING TAPE . Once it looks quite sooty , rub you finger from the tape onto the green exposed paint the other side of the line . Once the tape is removed this will give a dark shadow . You can do the same with a white chalk on the dark colours like the black invasion stripes .

In general the thing to remember is that you must fix in your mind where the imaginary sun is . That means that all the rivets and lines would be lit from one side and shadow on the other .

The rivets are installed in pairs either side of a line . They are made up of a small "c" in black and a mirror of the "c" in white . This gives the impression of depth .

You are going to say "But Richard , how do I seal the chalk ?" Well , you cant , A light dust of hairspray works to some extent , but generally as soon as you add a lacquer or moisture to chalk it disappears . But I have several models of two or three years old that have survived quite well . Obviously , I dont leave them out in the rain .

Ultimately , once you have mastered the skill by experimenting , you will be able to aribrush in the same effect with paint which will be long term resilient .

[RICHARD WILLS]

Now, on this part , you can see the filler cap for the fuel tank. These complicated little "Monza" caps would be very difficult to draw free hand . But at Warbirds Central we offer a neat little stencil which includes the fuel cap , rivets of various size and spacing and other aircraft type hatches .

You will also note silver being employed . This can be a silver sharpie or one of those silver craft pens with a ball bearing shaker in . The application is best done with the pad of your middle finger . You just dot some silver on and instantly drag the paint with your finger .

Before you attempt any of this stuff , have a good look at Robert Taylor and Nicholas Trudgeon art work . They really make their aircraft look three dimensional and yet they are clearly not .

[David Hazell 1]

Posted by Ron Gray on 31/01/2021 15:34:43:

@David - I use 38 micron only because when I bought it that was the lightest I could get, I was after 32. If you are going to use it on the 'stang, or another airframe that is sheeted or solid surface then it won't make a (noticeable) difference to the finish but I would say that it will be easier to apply. On open frame 50" and above I would use the 38 micron, on foamies i would say that the 30 would be ideal. Remember, lam film is strong, a lot stronger than we are used to with normal covering film.

I might push the button on some 30 micron stuff then, 200m of it at 44cm width. Thanks again!