Dad_flyer Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 (edited) I must start with the disclaimer that I know nothing about designing. I would go with the plan side view being more likely to be correct than the former. You can see the shape of the model and incidences on the side view on a plan and you can check them, so mistakes are likely to show up. A former is more likely to have been derived from measurements of top and side view, transcribed to a laser cutter tool path. Plenty of places for a mistake to creep in, and it is not at all obvious when you look at the former on its own. Edited March 9, 2021 by Dad_flyer Spelling 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 These things are sent to try us, can anyone tell me why? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 9, 2021 Author Share Posted March 9, 2021 It seems I did former 101 an in-justice when I said it was missing, and all I had was the outside. The outside is all that there is doh! Considering how poor some bits are as far as fit, the fuel tank box unit is spot on, and the joints perfect, I am very glad too as there is some serious wood involved that you don't just fettle to fit! Anyway letting the glue dry before adding the bulkheads to one side of the fus. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 9, 2021 Author Share Posted March 9, 2021 19 minutes ago, Dad_flyer said: I must start with the disclaimer that I know nothing about designing. I would go with the plan side view being more likely to be correct than the former. You can see the shape of the model and incidences on the side view on a plan and you can check them, so mistakes are likely to show up. A former is more likely to have been derived from measurements of top and side view, transcribed to a laser cutter tool path. Plenty of places for a mistake to creep in, and it is not at all obvious when you look at the former on its own. Hi, you make a good point, having traced a few plans to have laser cut, it is not difficult and being a couple of mm out is not really very good. However after I posted, and taking your thought into account, it's a lot easier to ease the ply parts than mutilate the fus sides. So I will follow your suggestion, as you say the plan should be sacred ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 9, 2021 Author Share Posted March 9, 2021 I have joined the sides after a great deal of fettling. It hasn't aligned perfectly, but it is symmetrically. I still have this dim and distant dream to cut much of this ply out and replace with carbon tubes, but its looking less likely all the time. My big clamps don't get out much....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 9, 2021 Author Share Posted March 9, 2021 Couldn't resist pulling the sides together, there was some resistance, that's for sure, but no snapping sounds..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 9, 2021 Author Share Posted March 9, 2021 Added the additional bracing across the fuselage, and brought the tail together properly over a line to make sure things were staying straight. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 (edited) Wow Danny, she is coming together, albeit with some resistance. I don't remember having such trouble thank goodness. However, a while back, a friend built the DB pup, and found all the cabane struts were incorrect, after some research Eddie admitted his jig was out by a country mile. All was resolved amicably, jig fixed and new steel issued. D.D. P.s. I turned the house upside down looking for instructions for the Auster to no avail. I could have sworn there were some. Anyway, I also think my tank was supplied in the kit, but cannot recall the size. Edited March 10, 2021 by Dwain Dibley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 (edited) I'm sure I've got the instructions for the Auster somewhere in my workshop. What do you need Danny? Edited March 10, 2021 by David Davis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 (edited) Thanks guys. The instructions are on the DB Sport and scale website. Because i dont do IC i hav no concept of tank sizes. It looks like from measurements a duBro 10 oz tank should fit, does the capacity sound appropriate? Cheers Danny Edited March 10, 2021 by Danny Fenton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 I'd say thats about right for a 70-80 four-stroke. Are you going to fit an i/c engine Danny? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 On 14/02/2021 at 16:36, Danny Fenton said: Not sure how to add text between pictures but I will get there. The laser cutting is a bit off, both in dimension and in the notches as you can see above. And the wood is very hard, even the laser couldn't cut right through in areas, but it is usable. Cheers Danny Hi David yes, i wanted a Laser but couldnt get one, so opted for a Saito 82b Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Danny, what motor/Lipo combination are you going to use? Been following this post , really enjoyable fellas. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackinBlack Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 47 minutes ago, Basil said: Danny, what motor/Lipo combination are you going to use? Been following this post , really enjoyable fellas. Bas Might I refer you to Dannys previous post.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 48 minutes ago, Basil said: Danny, what motor/Lipo combination are you going to use? Been following this post , really enjoyable fellas. Bas He's going to use a proper motor Basil. A Saito FA 82 fourstroke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Thanks chaps. Indeed having been an electric only flyer since around 2007, I found myself in a quandry. I am designing a 1/4 scale Chipmunk to compete in F4c competition. As you may know the models sound does garner some points. And if you aiming high then I thought I should not restrict myself to what I am very comfortable with, but to give IC a go. So this model is being powered with an IC. A few reasons: Can my models withstand the vibration and constant cleaning. Can I operate an IC engine reliably, it must start and run impeccably for competition. Do I like it? So you see this is a test of those factors, and this is the engine I will use. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Hi Danny, I am sure the standard of your building will take an IC engine many models have been flown for years on this power. The behaviour of an IC engine is down to the operator, good installation, good tank position, in line filters, correct fuel, and once in and set up don't fiddle about with the settings, You will love the sound of the 4 stroke engine, the cleaning is worth the benefits of longer flight times and being able to fly all day without charging batteries. Eric. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Agree with all Eric says apart from 1, but that would be the subject of another thread! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 1 hour ago, Eric Robson said: Hi Danny, I am sure the standard of your building will take an IC engine many models have been flown for years on this power. The behaviour of an IC engine is down to the operator, good installation, good tank position, in line filters, correct fuel, and once in and set up don't fiddle about with the settings, You will love the sound of the 4 stroke engine, the cleaning is worth the benefits of longer flight times and being able to fly all day without charging batteries. Eric. Thanks Eric, I am not too concerned at my building skills, what is more concerning is my choice of materials and the way I design. Lets just say its more the Colin Chapman school than perhaps JC Bamford. I am also concerned about detail vibrating loose. How well would this lot survive? As for you other comments we perhaps shouldn't go there ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 5 hours ago, Ron Gray said: Agree with all Eric says apart from 1, but that would be the subject of another thread! And a good quality glow plug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 I.C is soooo complex..... Anyway fettled the bulky 1/2" ply blocks for the undercarriage, Good job I have a sanding station, would have taken days by hand. There is a hatch that goes over this section, to allow access to the fus servos, I may sneak the Rx under here too. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 It will fit mate. D.D. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Thanks DD, I do like the way you have hidden the awful undercarriage clamps, I will steal that if I may ? I so want to make the undercarriage sprung like the full size, but I must resist ? Thanks again to Andy Sephton for access to his Auster reference material, thx mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Yes, once painted it was invisible. Help yourself Danny. A thing I would avoid if I could do it over is the clear acrylic type strut fixings, they are well brittle, make some metal ones instead. D.D. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 6 minutes ago, Dwain Dibley. said: Yes, once painted it was invisible. Help yourself Danny. A thing I would avoid if I could do it over is the clear acrylic type strut fixings, they are well brittle, make some metal ones instead. D.D. I had thought that already DD, looked well dodgey. I am struggling with the profile of the outside of the fus, at the cockpit, any pics of the fus just before covering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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