Ron Gray Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 (edited) I’ve never really been a video games fan, unlike my wife who loves them, so much that she’s just got herself an OLED Steamdeck and I must admit that I am somewhat impressed with the quality of both the hardware and the screen. I am now tempted to try out DCS on it, with her permission of course, assuming that she can put it down long enough for me to use! Edited January 12 by Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 52 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: I’ve never really been a video games fan, unlike my wife who loves them, so much that she’s just got herself an OLED Steamdeck and I must admit that I am somewhat impressed with the quality of both the hardware and the screen. I am now tempted to try out DCS on it, with her permission of course, assuming that she can put it down long enough for me to use! It certainly isn't in the "game" category, the aircraft, are a very high simulation, and takes a lot of subject study to even start the engine. Link P47 The main reason I mention it is the weathering and detail available to help us with our Models in adding that extra touch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 Flight No.26 today would have been 30 but everyone was leaving due to the cold. Dolly still going strong, its better than retracts with the strip as it is, downside is the muddy underside. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Two possibly dumb questions. First - why do I need to “waterproof” the brown paper with either dope or PVA? Surely if I just go ahead and paint it the paint when it dries would do the job? Second - how best to attach the canopy? What’s the right glue to use - epoxy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 This depends on the type of paint, if you use the B&Sque emulsion it isn't waterproof, I finish it off with a thinned coat of matte varnish to seal it. If your using model enamels then that should be good. I know the grass is dry at the moment but just in case it's wet.. Look for canopy glue or you can use super glue, just don't spend the next six weeks with a canopy and fuselage attached to your fingers.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Interesting, I’ve found the B&Q emulsions to be quite resilient to damp, certainly up to the flying conditions at our site (the grass bits that is, not the tarmac). But, as belly landers, some extra protection wouldn’t harm and water based floor varnish (I use semi gloss as it looks better and more ‘scale’ imo) is great as it makes cleaning your belly a lot easier. You can also use it on your ‘plane too. Regarding the cockpit canopy, I don’t like canopy glue so if I’m sticking one on I use Gorilla Glue, the white pva dries clear but, for me the clear stuff. Having said that, I prefer to use small screws to attach the canopy, which does require some thin ply backing on the inside of the fuse sides to screw into. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 For gluing canopies I like the RC Modellers glue - RC56 - which gives a nice solid fixing, easy clean up and doesn't fog the canopy like CA can do. If the model is suitable it's really nice to use the tiny Mick Reeves screws to give a removable canopy. On quite a few models I've used strips of covering trim or aluminium tape to secure the canopy, which can also add some illusion of framing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 38 minutes ago, leccyflyer said: some illusion of framing. Framed..?? They all say that... Send him down M'lord 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 As I fly early am it's more like flying off a wet sponge... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 this ol'e girl is for when it's really wet. At least it's water resistant... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 I use the B&Q paint straight on to the brown paper, at the time of my flying with the FW190 the grass has always been damp and somewhat muddy. it has not affected the paint apart from not being easy to clean and would benefit from a coat of matt varnish. The canopy on mine is screwed on as I intend to fit a pilot, at the moment the c of g is slightly rearward and the pilot I have is not superlight, after 26 flights I am reluctant to alter anything as it flys so well, it's only on low passes that the absence of the pilot is noticeable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 I shall throw my two pennies worth in . I put two elastic bands round the fuselage and use them to hold the canopy on (wait , there's more !) , Once you have looked at the alignment from every angle , draw a pencil line round the frame onto the fuselage . Rough up the inner side of the canopy for the glue to grip with 80 grit sand paper . Dont mark the clear "glass" I then use 5min epoxy using the bands to keep on the pressure and some temporary pins to stop any sliding . Takes longer to explain than do . 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 With regards the paint mixed at B&Q, I believe that you get a choice of finish. Just choose kitchen, bathroom or masonry finish, all of which should be resistant to damp or wet grass. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 5 hours ago, RICHARD WILLS said: I shall throw my two pennies worth in . I put two elastic bands round the fuselage and use them to hold the canopy on (wait , there's more !) , Once you have looked at the alignment from every angle , draw a pencil line round the frame onto the fuselage . Rough up the inner side of the canopy for the glue to grip with 80 grit sand paper . Dont mark the clear "glass" I then use 5min epoxy using the bands to keep on the pressure and some temporary pins to stop any sliding . Takes longer to explain than do . I think I’ll go with the elastic bands and call it a day. 🤣 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 To all the Tempest fans out there I have to apologise for the slight delay in progress . As I have mentioned before , the pinch point that is out of my control is the kit cutter . He cuts kits Chris Foss , PB models , Cloud models and Warbirds . There are also a few other contracts like Doolittle media . Consequently , fitting in my slot is always an issue . On top of that , he has actually been too ill to go into the workshop for a week or so which pushes every one back . Paul Johnson and I have produced an entire design in 3d this time , with the files all ready to be laser cut , so we have done all that we can do and must just wait for out turn . In the mean time I have not been idle and have looked at ways of easing the process further for you chaps . Motor availability seems to have been a little bit of an issue , so I have stockpiled more of the motors that I use in the prototype . That way if people are not sure , they can just have one in the kit box without paying further postal costs. Secondly , the Tempest has a much more complicated decal requirement than the black and white Fw190 set up . I was particularly keen to get the squadron codes in sky colour correct . That is not easy because no vinyl maker does "sky " so they have be professionally printed onto vinyl and then cut . Anyway the end result below looks very good . This is the first attempt shown and I will make the upper wing roundels a little bigger and include a sky band for the rear fuselage . I think that with our simplistic painting approach combined with this very comprehensive decal set , we will all end up with very convincing models . I am going to offer just two versions . Roland Beaumont's "RB" and Pierre Closterman's "JFE". Ive got to buy a bucket load to get the price down , but I reckon each set will be £27 to you . I will have enough for everyone so will give you all the option when we get nearer that stage . 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 1 hour ago, RICHARD WILLS said: Consequently , fitting in my slot is always an issue Maybe a bit more kerf on the cuts? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Philbrick Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Thanks for the update, Richard. I was beginning to wonder what was going on with the Tempest. We have to have something to beat up all these 190' s. Will the motor you are suggesting be ok with 4s ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Thanks again Richard and no apology needed at all. You have set the expectation that they will be ready in 2024 and I am sure they will be! One British kit in 2023 was paid for and took 5 months to arrive and the same for an engine (paid on delivery, but the model was finished!). And the other factor....I haven't finished the FW190 so I am in a glass house surrounded with china and in no position to say anything! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Bowers Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Thanks for the update, nothing to apologise for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 For those of us going the Luftwaffe route (and so building already), any suggestions for choice of prop? I've got a couple of APC electric 12x8 that I hoped would be perfect, but the shape of the prop means the blades sweep forward of the central hub area and so don't sit flat against the spinner. Does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative manufacturer in a similar size that will play nicely with the spinner? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 THANKS FOR THE UPDATE! Grovel Grovel I say.... I'm still waiting for my sock master... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 44 minutes ago, Lipo Man said: For those of us going the Luftwaffe route (and so building already), any suggestions for choice of prop? I've got a couple of APC electric 12x8 that I hoped would be perfect, but the shape of the prop means the blades sweep forward of the central hub area and so don't sit flat against the spinner. Does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative manufacturer in a similar size that will play nicely with the spinner? Thanks! I think I know what you mean, the front of the prop hub is held off the back of the spinner rear plate Personally I wouldn’t change the prop as the APC ones are, imo, the best. Either make the prop blade cut outs deeper (in the spinner) or space the gap with a washer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveB1 Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 53 minutes ago, Lipo Man said: For those of us going the Luftwaffe route (and so building already), any suggestions for choice of prop? I've got a couple of APC electric 12x8 that I hoped would be perfect, but the shape of the prop means the blades sweep forward of the central hub area and so don't sit flat against the spinner. Does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative manufacturer in a similar size that will play nicely with the spinner? Thanks! Thanks for raising this Lipo man, have the same concern, and was going to discuss this when I got to that stage. Oh looks like Ron has replied as I type - I suspect we'll just have to cut away some of the spinner backplate to clear the prop. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 Glen , The motors I have will be ideal for 4s packs as that seems to be the dominant choice . They are heavy enough to help the balance on the Tempest . Regarding the prop selection . Eric has been using the APC type props and surprisingly not broken one (they always look delicate ) I dont really like the look of them and you probably do need to mod the spinner slot due their weird twist . However there are more conventional props available if you look . APC 12x6 is more normal and there are similar unknown brands . Im not a big fan (sorry , I didnt see that coming ) of APC cough candy sticks. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 APC 12x6 3 m8 washers between the prop and the spinner, nothing cut off the spinner. On one flight on a low pass the prop hit the ground and didn't break, muddy ground. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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