RICHARD WILLS Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 that is pig ugly . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 Na this is ugly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 17 minutes ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: Na this is ugly... Only a Beluga whale could love that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrunner Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 1 hour ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: Na this is ugly... Unless it's painted like this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 Right , lets get back to the business of putting retracts in the FW190 . As Paul says , we are waiting for wheels from a well known wholesaler , but I have a few stashed for those that are chomping at the bit . The retract kit will comprise of : Laser cut wooden parts for the mount . 2x servoless retract units . Pre formed 8swg legs with coil spring to protect the units . 70mm lightweight wheels , star dome captive wheel retainers , wheel doors and Y lead . Price will be hopefully £59.90 You can see some of the main items below. The laser cut mounts only have four parts , but the each wing will have a mirror version of the other , so take time to glue them together appropriately . For instance , the key hole rib must be inner most on both sides and the main mount plate must have the circular recess for the coil spring rearward . When you see the following posts , this will become more obvious . I would recommend using epoxy or golden Gorilla glue throughout . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 In the pack , you will also get an A4 overlay which aligns with the wing centre line and the leading edge . First , you need to cut out the shape shown . Then holding it in the right position , draw round the inside with a black pen . Easy , so far isnt it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 Next thing is to remove the skin where you have drawn the lines. Although I've shown a knife , my weapon of choice is the cut off hacksaw blade . The fine point goes round corners really well , less chance of cutting yourself too. Just don't go through the top wing skin and ruin your paint job . Next thing is to scoop out the foam . For many years , I use to heat up an old undercarriage leg over the gas cooker ring and scoop out the foam . Then some genius invented the solder gun . This one is £19 on Amazon and you can change the "bit " to a bigger and squarer piece of wire which is superb for scooping out foam . (I understand you can do soldering with it too 😉) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 The ribs need to be flush or nearly flush with the bottom wing skin . When you are entirely satisfied with the fit . , brush some water into the cuts and then add the laser cut mount with golden gorilla glue . It will expand to make a really good grip on the foam . You can sand off nay slightly proud bits later . The kits will also include some strips of ply to line the wheel wells . I have a stock of plastic wheel wells , but never found them easy to fit or convenient . They work better on built up wings , but even then they have snags . Wood is easy as it glues well and is quick to fit . Later you will see that I lined the bottom of the wheel well with a cardboard disc. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 Another useful tool here . The sanding drum . Makes lightwork of the edges and tidies up nicely . Just fits in a standard drill chuck . That is pretty much it . Apologies for mine looking rough , but I'm sure you appreciate I dont really have time for hanging about . I reckon you could do the whole lot in an hour if pushed . But to be fair .......Ive done a few . Any questions? 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 32 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said: Another useful tool here . The sanding drum . Makes lightwork of the edges and tidies up nicely . Just fits in a standard drill chuck . That is pretty much it . Apologies for mine looking rough , but I'm sure you appreciate I dont really have time for hanging about . I reckon you could do the whole lot in an hour if pushed . But to be fair .......Ive done a few . Any questions? Well that doesn’t look too tricky. I suspect even a newcomer like me will cope - with a sensible measure twice, cut once approach. Only question from me - for those of us flying off rough strips is there any scope to upsize the wheel diameter further, or are we maxed out in the space at that size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 As the wheel size goes up so does its thickness, the wheel as it is hasn't got a lot of room. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 25 minutes ago, Lipo Man said: Well that doesn’t look too tricky. I suspect even a newcomer like me will cope - with a sensible measure twice, cut once approach. Only question from me - for those of us flying off rough strips is there any scope to upsize the wheel diameter further, or are we maxed out in the space at that size? What Paul said is generally true . However I have a vast collection of wheels from different manufacturers . On the same brand you could definitely go from 70mm to 76mm for rough strips . If you are not worried about looks , I have some larger and thinner than that . So anyone having issue like that , should always ask me first as I may be able to swap out the wheels for something bigger and thinner . From a looks point of view the ones shown always look in the ball park and weigh almost nothing . Ive always liked them . But I do think you have a valid point . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 19 Author Share Posted April 19 There's always one isn't there? --------- Tail wheel? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 11 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: There's always one isn't there? --------- Tail wheel? I was so excited at the thought of actual real life RETRACTABLE wheels I totally forgot there’s a wheel at the back. Honestly I’d be happy with a little stick, but I’m new to all this. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 Hi Richard, Please put me on the list for the retracts mod kit. I think I will fly without the retracts initially and then do the mod. Gordon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 16 hours ago, Lipo Man said: I’d be happy with a little stick Just stay with us and I can guarantee you'll get plenty more... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 Hi Richard, looks great - please put me down for a set 👍 Cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 Looking good Richard - please add me to the list for a retracts kit for the FW190. There's a decision to be made whether to wait for the retracts or cracks on and try the belly landing mode first. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 I reckons cracks on and belly jobbie myself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 After many flights with mine I'm happy with belly landings, It's flying so good I don't want to change anything. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 Presumably ply, not lite-ply? Could the retract mounting plate be made thicker- more meat for the screws to bite into ( yum!) Alternatively use bolts poking upwards (wire lock buried heads so they don’t rotate). What I am driving at is, I am fretting about the gear being ripped out after an ‘arrival’ onto none too short grass. Maybe I should just keep taking the Valium or get another hobby. 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 Or maybe a dolly and belly option. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 The plates are 1/8" Birch ply You'll break the retract before they give way.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 9 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: a dolly and belly option Are we really talking planes here? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 44 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: Or maybe a dolly and belly option. I will go for that option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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