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IC starting


Erfolg
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22 minutes ago, Rich Griff said:

The green stuff that is sometimes seen in glow fuel and tanks, copper leached from the brass ?

 

Yea most likely. Not all brass tube is created equal either and some is full of impurities that allow the methanol to really get into the material and do damage. Generally is fine as long as they dont stay submerged all the time so drain your tanks when finished. 

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Thanks Jon 

 

Perhaps a "common IC engine problems" thread may be a good thing, unless that has already been done ?

 

I know you have done lots on this subject Jon, being the "go to person' on here about this subject, especially laser. This in no way infers that others "know nothing" and are from "barcelona".

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1 minute ago, Nigel R said:

 

About 10lb of battery right there.

 

Join the 21st century, use a 3s2200 lipo... weight 1/2lb.

 

Yea absolutely. I used a small 4ah motorbike battery here at work and it worked fine. Alas its dead now. Apparently leaving it hooked up to the charger but having the charger off at the wall drained it stone dead. oops. 

 

My 6s 3000mah lipo is good for probably 6 months of starts if i used it every weekend. Its why i keep killing my starter lipos. they last so long i forget to charge them regularly and kill the cells. 

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  1. I used to use small lead batteries. Accepted,  poor decipline in keeping it charged didn’t help, but they take all day to charge, and don’t do many starts before they start to struggle.
  2. Any way I also used 8inches cut of a broom ( blessed with a shortish wife, who wouldn’t notice).
  3. It got me physiotherepy, 5 one hour sessions a week for over 4 weeks. Painful. 
     
  4. golf bag on wheels is a golf trolly
Edited by Don Fry
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1 minute ago, Rich Griff said:

Perhaps a "common IC engine problems" thread may be a good thing, unless that has already been done

 

I closed the laser tech thread as it was too much of a battle. Every comment i made was argued to the ends of the earth and it just became too tiresome. 

 

However, my top 5 list of common problems would be something like this

 

1. Modellers/Club 'experts'/Forum 'experts'/Youtube 'experts'

5.Tank placement

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4 minutes ago, Nigel R said:

 

Plastic tube also works.

 

Or, SLEC make those rectangular tanks that use no brass tubes at all, and are all moulded nylon.

Those were my preferred tanks. IIRC the clunk was also steel, rather than brass.

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Hi Nigel, 

 

Yeh, right, but the trolley is on wheels, but yes, the whole unit is a little heavy to lift into and out of the car.

 

Same battery fits the motorcycles and has plenty of "power".

 

As a matter of interest how much is a 3s2200 lipo battery including carriage ?

 

The new wet lead acid bike battery I bought for the RC model aircraft "ground servicing and refueling transportation unit" otherwise known to me as " the trolley" was on offer, dry charged with acid pack, carriage free, for just under £30 including vat.

 

I bought three 

 

Good gaurantee, good batteries, the new one on the bike starts the engine with real gusto, in all weathers, as the bike lives outside with a small cover to stop rain getting into the headlamp shell, handlebar switches, ign switch and fuel tank cap.

 

Anyways, each to thier own.

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They're very good.

 

They could use a slightly longer spigot for the vent/breather. One can always use those little clamps, I guess.

 

The thread for the clunk feed sometimes has some moulding cruft that needs cleaning up.

 

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8 minutes ago, Rich Griff said:

Hi Nigel, 

 

Yeh, right, but the trolley is on wheels, but yes, the whole unit is a little heavy to lift into and out of the car.

 

Same battery fits the motorcycles and has plenty of "power".

 

As a matter of interest how much is a 3s2200 lipo battery including carriage ?

 

The new wet lead acid bike battery I bought for the RC model aircraft "ground servicing and refueling transportation unit" otherwise known to me as " the trolley" was on offer, dry charged with acid pack, carriage free, for just under £30 including vat.

 

I bought three 

 

Good gaurantee, good batteries, the new one on the bike starts the engine with real gusto, in all weathers, as the bike lives outside with a small cover to stop rain getting into the headlamp shell, handlebar switches, ign switch and fuel tank cap.

 

Anyways, each to thier own.

How far do you have to transport your field gear from your car to your pits area at your field?

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I find that if the new fuel pipe is pushed well onto the rectangular coloured slec tank fuel "spigot" fuel pipe stub when dry, they do not come off in use.

 

The fuel pipe can be the devil to remove at a later date, the fuel pick up pipe being slightly easier than the plastic stubs.

 

New tank, new pipe etc..

 

Have a great day chaps, stuff to do.

 

Happy landings.

 

 

 

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The thingverse "starter battery holder" has slightly different holes centres to my starter. In reality it does not really matter, some how it is nice to know how it has been branded. and who sold the items, as what ever the name.

 

With respect to the Prolux hand pump, how are users mounting it?

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4 minutes ago, Erfolg said:

The thingverse "starter battery holder" has slightly different holes centres to my starter. In reality it does not really matter, some how it is nice to know how it has been branded. and who sold the items, as what ever the name.

 

With respect to the Prolux hand pump, how are users mounting it?

 

I used a hand pump for both glow and petrol.  I didn't mount either. I just held it in my hand and wound the winder as they appear deigned to do.  They occasionally don't self prime and it's necessary to hold the pump below the fuel level for a start, then wind away.  Much less hassle than the various electric pumps I had in my early days (20 years ago)

 

As an electric flyer, I guess you have a supply of 3S 2200 LiPos to hand.  Connect an XT60 to your starter and use one of the less than perfect LiPos simply taped to it.  I haven't checked, but I bet the current draw is little different from a model - perhaps lower.  Or you could just have the  battery on the ground nearby.  I preferred to hand start engines when I could and used a 'chicken stick', in my case a short length of 30mm dowel I happened to have around. A chicken stick amplifies your wrist/hand movement so you turn the engine faster.

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This is my starting equipment, carried in the flight box about 100 yards from car park to pits. The box also contains a some tools and a few spares such as glowplugs, wing bolts, etc.

 

PXL_20240201_163857498.thumb.jpg.bb7e741e6888bbd4824e21dce95a7573.jpg

 

Standard 12V starter with 4000mAh 3s battery - good for all my glow engines up to and including a Laser FT-200. I've bolted a thin ply plate on the flat section of the starter end caps to carry the lipo, which is held in place with a strip of velcro underneath and a strap around. I generally start 2-strokes by hand using a chicken finger and just use the 12V starter for 4-strokes (and reluctant 2-strokes).

 

I use a simple fuel pump which is fitted with a 2-way switch and powered by an old RC car 2s lipo. Backup is a hand-operated pump. Glow is provided by a common & garden glowstick containing a sub C-sized Nimh cell. This cell is usually charged before every flying session but the lipos on the pump and starter seem to last ages and are only charged a couple of times a year.

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8 hours ago, Geoff S said:

 

No. I'm not a golfer but I think a caddy is a human being who carries your bag and offers advice.

You are right of course - it was just an attsmot at humour.

 

Although surprisingly, Mr Google offers 'golf caddies for sale' ..... 

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Just a quick post,

 I went to the field with my super .90 starter diameter 63mm x 140mm, it wouldn't turn my Saito 150 over on 4s,

yet my smaller one diameter also 63mm x 130mm would on 3s !, I stripped the .90 one this morning cleaned the collector and brushes up, still not much better, so try your starter on your car battery first maybe 3s is enough.

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